Completed FJ62 Dual Battery System install

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Feb 17, 2007
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Location
Oregon
I got my dual battery system on my 1988 FJ62 finished up last week (mostly), and finally got the pics off of the work camera to do the write up, as promised. I chose to do an isolator system, and incorporated a switch between my aux. and main battery for jump starting purposes. I know many have probably done this, and the plan is that if I ever kill my main battery, I can flip the switch to "on", and jump start myself. I ran into an issue with the isolator I had selected, and the first time I installed it and started it up, I was getting no charge. I used a standard 3 post isolator, and the internally regulated alternator of the 62 and the 3FE 80's would not excite without a 12v feed. If I had the main battery hooked up directly to the alternator, then it charged fine. I had to run it this way for a few days, with the main battery charging direct, and the aux charging off the isolator, until I figured out what isolator I needed. I talked to Sure Power (www.surepower.com) here in town, and they told which one to use, either the Sure Power their 9523A or 12023A. They are the same isolator, except the 9523A is rated for 95 amps, and the 12023A is rated for 120 amps. I went with the 12023A so that I can upgrade to a HO alternator in the future without having to replace my alternator again. It's a 4 post isolator, with the 4th post being the excite post. The way it works with the internally regulated Denso alt is by tapping into the ignition feed wire on the wiring harness going into the back of the alt, and running that to the "E" post. Then wire your alternator and batteries up.

As far as installing the tray and the other what nots, that was fairly easy. I picked up a used tray and hold down bar here on mud from shmukster, who was parting out another FJ62. I stripped them down, as the powder coat was starting to lift, primed them with a two part epoxy primer, and painted them with Plasti-Dip. The tray bolts right in, as the fender well and core support already have the bolt holes for it, and the tray's are not side specific. To make room for the tray I just removed the air pump muffler, and attached a piece of hose the hangs down below the tray. This was upon the suggestion of other mud members. I ended up fabbing my own suppport bracket, and incorporated my overflow bottle bracket into that, rather than buying the part from a 24V diesel rig. I just used 1" wide and 1/8" flat stock, made the proper bends, cuts, and turns, and tack welded a bolt into the bottom hole to act as a retained stud like the OE bracket. Then welded a small strip vertically to attach my bottle bracket too. I had some good pics of the bracket as it was being done and before it was in, but I took them with the work camera, and the boss deleted them not knowing I hadn't uploaded them yet.:mad:

But here is the pics.
isolator.webp
switchbottlebracket.webp
bracket.webp
 
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And a few more, including the wiring diagram, as I have had a few requests for that as well.

Edit: I should also add that for the 60 owners who are interested in doing this, I don't believe you have to use this same isolator or tap into the ign. feed on the alternator, as your alts are externally regulated, and are wired up differently.
bottlebracket.webp
enginebay.webp
wiring diagram.webp
 
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I still need to split loom tie strap up all my wires to make it look purdyier, but it's functional. Hope this will help others who are interested.
 
it looks good, this will be a big help when im ready to do mine.

i posted a question about removing parts from the engine bay but have gotten no replys yet, looks like you removed the charcoal canister or whatever it is right in place of your second battery. if thats true and it wont cause problems with smog reg. please let me know.

nice work
 
That is true. I as well thought it was a charcoal canister, but I guess it is just a muffler for the air injection system. I removed it and just put a piece of hose pointing down under the battery tray in it's place. You and your engine will never know the difference.

Thanks!
 
this helps lots!

thanks for the write up, mtb! can you shoot a simple run down of what the costs were? thx dude!
 
Cost's won't be 100% accurate, because I have connections on wholesale parts, however, here ya go, and I had all the battery cable and cable ends, etc, already in bulk.

Battery tray and hold down: $38 shipped, used.
Flat bar to fab bracket: $4.75
Isolator: $55, but retails for around $80
Isolator install kit: $25 bucks, again retails closer to 40

Plus the cost of your battery of choice. And like I said, I had cable and cable ends, and all the misc. stuff already in stock, so no extra cost accrued there.
 
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Nice job on the washer bottle mount. Real clean. I think I will have to change mine a little to clean it up like that.

Thanks. I need to drill out the rivets and ream the holes slightly and lower it a hair. I have a tiny bit of room left before it hits the wheel well, and the hose and lid of my bottle just barely, I mean just barely, hit the hood.
 
How did you set up your switches on this setup? ie- can you switch between batteries, do you have an aux switch for using something like a winch or fridge when the vehicle is not running, and if you did use switches what kind did you use and where did you put them?

I've almost decided I don't want any in cab switches just because I don't want to bugger up my dash. I know some people use the marine switch (see the tech page), will that work with the isolator?
 
Whoa. Sorry for the delay guys. I didn't realize there was new posts on this thread. I just dug it up for a reference for somebody else and saw the new questions.

I did put a switch in the system. I just used a single on/off switch on the second battery, so that I can switch the aux. battery to join the main battery in the need of a jump start. I just used they type with the little red plastic key. It is not set up to switch back and forth between batteries, per-se. I did not see the need for that style of set up with the isolator system. The marine style switches would work for this as well, but are much larger and would require more space to mount, though people have used them. I did not put any switches inside, though I have thought of (and actually used this idea on a boat) getting rid of the manual jump start switch and wiring a solenoid with a toggle switch on the dash, so that I could flip it to "jump mode" without getting out of the truck. It's just such a low usage item, I haven't bothered with it.

I posted a run down of parts and prices earlier in the thread, but as I explained in that post, it isn't totally accurate, as I got parts at wholesale. I did list the retail prices of the parts as well, but I already had cables and cable ends, so there was no cost involved there. I am thinking maybe this summer I will redo all my cables to a larger size. However I have had no issues with what I have.
 
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