clutch hydraulics blitz

[jblueridge]

I will have only a short time tomorrow to put in a new clutch master, slave and flex hose.

Is it necessary for me to mess with the pipe/hose "union" and its clip shown in the diagram?

 

[ozcrusier]

Yes you will need to pull the clip to get access the the inbuilt nut to remover the rubber flex lines.

 

[jblueridge]

Any trick to getting the clip off or loose?
If it's like the electrical plugs, each one is a little different.

 

[OGBeno]

Have you gotten the 10mm hardline fitting loose yet?

Also inspect the soft hydraulic line. Any cracking you need to replace it.

The metal fitting and bracket will need to be s***canned as well as the soft line.


There is a good brake line replacement depending if you have lift:

If you don't have a lift, 96940-34705 wil be a perfect fit.

If you do have a lift, 90080-94070 will be a good fit.

 

[OGBeno]

Or you can keep the metal fitting and use one of the above and have an even longer line.

 

[ozcrusier]

I've stripped way to many of the 10mm brake lines that's why I butcher most and use small pair off vice grips to crack the flange nut and then go back to a open ring spanner to remove.

 

[jblueridge]

Reinstall slowed because I had to remove rear battery and tray to access the pipe to union flare fitting.
Slave and braided hose are now in place. I had a local guy copy the original hose length and fittings.

 

[jblueridge]

Pics of clutch hose and slave cylinder. I put copper grease on the pipe union's clip.
The MC I was told would work, will not. I'll probably take the MC and booster to the restoration guys near here and shell out the money for rebuilds on both (+ lifetime warranty.)
New stuff works well.