Closed cell foam insulation (1 Viewer)

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sk8salomon

sk8salomon

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Apr 21, 2006
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Chattanooga, TN
I've researched both open & closed cell insulation for my new added attic transformation. I've chosen to go with closed cell for these reasons. 1-my house is old, they used 1x6 for the roof instead of plywood. Over the years, as wood tends to do, it shrinks causing up to 1/2" gaps between the boards. I can look up and see the shingle paper. Closed cell offers strength & better sealing. 2-efficiency rating from what I've seen is better, will see improved energy savings by keeping main level sealed better.

My question is can I buy & spray myself? I've seen smaller tank packages that run 300-600 bucks but I'm going to need 3-4x that amount of coverage it states. Can only a licensed company do it?
 
We recently had our attic roof sprayed with closed cell foam. It has made a huge difference in our home. Not sure about DIY, but after seeing it done, I don't think i'd want to try.
 
I recently read an article in an older issue of Fine Homebuilding (iirc) about small spray setup s for the DIYer or contractor. Spray foam isn't exactly the cleanest application and creates heat as it cures so you have to be thoughtful as you spray. I've also seen problems with improper proportions of mixtures and it not curing properly. Imo, Its a little more involved then a plug n go application, that's not saying it can't be done properly by careful preparation and research. Being in the trades, having seen it done several times and having a friend who does it professionally, I'd still hire it out.
 
I'm kinda curions how it compares to standard insulation products. We have been looking at house plans and have thrown around some ideas. I have heard a wide range of Cost, from just a little more to like 3x.
 
Holy #%?!, $3700!!!! I have a small house, 1800 sq ft. The floor space I'm adding in the attic is an additional 500. So cost to spray above that! Does this sound right?
 
I have no idea How accurate it is but like I mentioned I had heard it was considerably more than regular batt or other types.

I would definitely get a second quote, but at that price you could probably buy some 2" rigid foam and some cans of great stuff and cut the boards to fit between the rafters and then foam all the joints. Of course I'm not sure about how that option would work, but is a thought.

Some of the options we are exploring use rigid foam board between wood panels as wall and roofing sections.
 
Be sure to have tyvek suits and a remote air source to breath. You lay it down in 2" cured passes. Be sure to cover the rafters and sidewalls as you want a complete envelope. I made rigid foam blocks to plug the eaves so that foam doesn't spray in there.
I have a little over 1000 sq ft roof and the contractor went through a 55 gal drum doing 2 passes.
 
So did you decide on anything? Kind of curious if you lay down the close cell at 1" thick, can you then put regular fiberglass over it to build the "R" value?
 
fwiw. I just got a quote for my work shop and it came out at $1.25/ft^2 for 1" thick on walls and ceiling.
 
roachman said:
fwiw. I just got a quote for my work shop and it came out at $1.25/ft^2 for 1" thick on walls and ceiling.
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Well I decided to go for it myself after getting quotes. $1.25 sq ft is hard to beat tho! I bought 2 of these kits from Lowes, 600 sq ft ea for $750/ea kit. Worked well only a few things I would recommend.
1-before you spray clear everything!!! Don't have wood, tools, cords, sawhorses, etc in the way. Once you start, you move like a train knocking everything around and about killing yourself!
2-full body suit if you can, otherwise old pants, long sleeve shirt, hat, mask & glasses a must!!! I repeat!!!! That stuff leaves small film of pebbles all over everything, another reason to follow #1.
3-ventilation, min small box fan from dollar store. That stuff gets super hot when it cures. Combine that with saving your lungs, eyes, skin etc.
4-Change nozzle tips often. After about 15-20 min, the space between gun & nozzle has slight build up. I noticed better coverage when I put on a fresh one.
5-drink water & beer
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jynx said:
So did you decide on anything? Kind of curious if you lay down the close cell at 1" thick, can you then put regular fiberglass over it to build the "R" value?
Click to expand...
I don't see why not, if money wasn't important I would just spray 2nd coat tho
 
@sk8salomon looms good Sean. As far as the layering, I was thinking the spray on to seal everything up and the batt to build the R value.

I am going to have to look into this stuff for the garage once we get that going. Wonder how it would stick to the backside of metal siding?
 
It sticks to everything. Good and bad.

I see the rafters were not done. They really need to be done. You want a continuous barrier. If not the moisture will collect there
 
se2000 said:
It sticks to everything. Good and bad.

I see the rafters were not done. They really need to be done. You want a continuous barrier. If not the moisture will collect there
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Thanks but that's not what the instructions say to do. If I cover completely over the rafters, I still have to cut the insulation off the face of the wood so I can mount my ceiling board to. Don't forget, I'm not just insulating, I'm building an office up there with walls, electric, air, etc
 
There are ways to install standoffs to mount the sheetrock to. If you don't cover all you will pay.
 
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