Thanks,
Part of the reason I asked is that I found a rust killer at a local body shop Called RUST-MORT made by SEM product # 69508. Says not for sale to the general public, which tells me it is strong stuff, and the warning probably lets them sell it, to the general public. Wasn't cheap either, so to treat a complete frame on a 40 or 60 would likely cost in the neighborhood of ? $150; not sure how far this stuff goes, but it is a watery liquid, not a paste. It does need to be topcoated however, but it is something anyone could do in their garage (not send the frame out) so some savings there.
What I don't know is whether it works or coats the frame when there is no rust, ie: after sandblasting, would brushing this product on the frame be similar to what the factory does before they paint the frame??
It is a combo solution of 75% Phosporic acid, with Chromic Acetate, Isopropanol and water. This for sure would need to be used with safety goggles, arm length gloves, apron, etc. Probably also a mask with the proper cartridges for acid vapors unless outside.
I plan to dab it on areas that are starting to rust to see how it works. The store that sold it told me that the local County uses a lot of it, I'm guessing on their vehicles, plows, trucks, etc.
Twenty years ago I was getting a few small areas of rust on my 1988 FJ62; it was only like a year old; I think it was due to small defects in the painting process. ie: around the door in a couple of places.
I brushed on another product, probably not as strong as this as I bought it at ?NAPA; comes in a white bottle with a brush in the cap; those small spots that I brushed almost 20 years ago haven't budged; still exactly the same (no rust) as they were then. Amazing.
