Cleaning up frame question guys

[The Red Camel]

When im ready to do the frame up is Sandblasting, or steel shot blasting the best. And when painting the frame is power coating good, or should i use a primer and epoxy. Any other ideas here. Last question what shade of black were the colours on the 40 series.

Thanks
Jamie
Ontario, Canada 1984 BJ42

 

[The Red Camel]

The best products for the frame,

 

[webelk6]

check the build threads in the 40 section. The question has too many answers and results from many members.

 

[Gus]

Media blasting with something like Black Beauty or garnet, 36 grit would eat up any rust and/or paint real fast and leave a course surface for paint or powdercoat to adhere to; 80 grit would aslo work fine, just not quite as aggressive. If the frame of your Cruiser is very rusty go with 36 grit blast media, if not too bad go with 80. Primer(epoxy works well on blasted surfaces) works great especially if applied right after media blasting, the less time the bare steel has to absorb moisture the better. Powdercoating is awsome, holds up to abuse well and gives good coverage; if you have a place that can handle big parts like a Cruiser frame near by, go for it. As far as frame color Semi-gloss black looks good for frames and drivetrain parts.

 

[gray]

Anyone know how frames are treated and painted at the factory? Seems like I recall seeing frames being dipped into a large tank (?phosporic acid) before being painted?

 

[webelk6]

check the build threads in the 40 section. The question has too many answers and results from many members.

check

 

[Gus]

Anyone know how frames are treated and painted at the factory? Seems like I recall seeing frames being dipped into a large tank (?phosporic acid) before being painted?

I'm not sure how Toyota originally coated the Cruiser frames, phosphoric acid does a great job of etching the metal for primer and top coat. You could have the frame galvanized then painted, this would make for a bullet proof set up.

 

[gray]

Thanks,
Part of the reason I asked is that I found a rust killer at a local body shop Called RUST-MORT made by SEM product # 69508. Says not for sale to the general public, which tells me it is strong stuff, and the warning probably lets them sell it, to the general public. Wasn't cheap either, so to treat a complete frame on a 40 or 60 would likely cost in the neighborhood of ? $150; not sure how far this stuff goes, but it is a watery liquid, not a paste. It does need to be topcoated however, but it is something anyone could do in their garage (not send the frame out) so some savings there.

What I don't know is whether it works or coats the frame when there is no rust, ie: after sandblasting, would brushing this product on the frame be similar to what the factory does before they paint the frame??

It is a combo solution of 75% Phosporic acid, with Chromic Acetate, Isopropanol and water. This for sure would need to be used with safety goggles, arm length gloves, apron, etc. Probably also a mask with the proper cartridges for acid vapors unless outside.

I plan to dab it on areas that are starting to rust to see how it works. The store that sold it told me that the local County uses a lot of it, I'm guessing on their vehicles, plows, trucks, etc.

Twenty years ago I was getting a few small areas of rust on my 1988 FJ62; it was only like a year old; I think it was due to small defects in the painting process. ie: around the door in a couple of places.

I brushed on another product, probably not as strong as this as I bought it at ?NAPA; comes in a white bottle with a brush in the cap; those small spots that I brushed almost 20 years ago haven't budged; still exactly the same (no rust) as they were then. Amazing.