Cleaning an EGR Valve: need directions for a newbie

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Michael.lee

Michael.lee

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After reading a bunch about the classic stumble problems, and with some sage advice from the PO who completely rebuilt this truck, it seems that I may have a sticking EGR valve, and that I should now remove and clean it.

I have searched this forum, and seen many posts about cleaning the EGR valve, but I have not seen any comprehensive directions for a newbie such as me. I have the FSR for this truck, but it assumes a level of skill and knowledge that I am not sure I have. Luckily there is Ih8mud.

So, can anyone provide me with easy to follow steps for removing the EGR valve, cleaning it, and replacing it- including basic stuff that your think anyone should already know?

While I am asking, I want to pull the top off of my EGR modulator and check the filter. I looked at it this morning, but I really do NOT want to break the plastic cap, since the new modulator is like $100. So, any advice on this one? Any tricks for getting the filter cover off of an EGR modulator? I promise some day I'll be a lifter like many of you, and I'll pass on my sage wisdome to any newbie who comes along. But until that day comes, I sincerely appreciate all of your help.

 
I had my EGR off recently, but did not make any attempt to get to the modulator or the filter therein. I drive a 62, so it is a bit different. As with any little parts on these engines, slow and gentle is the key. I dont recommend using any solvent to clean the EGR - just compressed air. Of course, if you get too much air pressure in there, that'll screw it up too.
 
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Before you take it apart and clean it or break any $100 plastic, take the vacuum line off the top, put a vacuum pump to it, and see if it will kill your idling engine. If so, it works fine, and your problem is elsewhere. Search for the procedure on here. I think one thread has pictures.

You can get the same stumbling/hesitation problem from the J-pipe and gasket not sealing properly. Hearing any ticking from your engine under acceleration (besides the ever present valves)?
 
I have blasted my EGR valve twice- once with Seafoam spray and once with carburetor cleaner. I had the classic surging and bucking syndrome before, now I don't (as much).

Removing the EGR valve is somewhat difficult- it's tight quarters in there. There's 2 12mm bolts- one on each side of the valve, the vacuum tubing going to the modulator, and the 2 exhaust ports going in and out of the valve. Use some copper anti-seize on the threads when you put the exhaust parts back together.

The flexible pipe going from the bottom of my EGR valve to the exhaust is leaking, and my j-tube is leaking as well, so I need to replace those next. I suspect that will fix the rest of my stumbling or hesitation. If not, it looks like a carb rebuild is next (I don't think it's ever been done on my cruiser).

I also replaced the non-working emissions electric valves, all the vacuum lines, etc.

You can gently pry the top off the EGR modulator. If you break it, I can send you another one. I replaced the filter in mine with some A/C return duct washable filter material and a cut up air filter element I trimmed to fit. I don't know if it makes any difference. I did the same thing with the HAC valve filter.
 
Howdy.

How does this tube connect to the EGR? Is it flush on the back side or does it insert into the body of the EGR? I’m trying to remove it as it’s full of carbon. Got the screw out but it’s not wanting to budge. Diaphragm of the EGR still functions.

thank you

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Leave that little tube alone. Loosen the nut below it (if you can) and the valve then comes out. When everything is new it's not too difficult to remove, but after 3 decades it's stuck in there. There's a certain metric box wrench size that fits that nut. With that wrench it's not difficult to remove
 
forestdan7 said:
Before you take it apart and clean it or break any $100 plastic, take the vacuum line off the top, put a vacuum pump to it, and see if it will kill your idling engine. If so, it works fine, and your problem is elsewhere. Search for the procedure on here. I think one thread has pictures.
OSS said:
Leave that little tube alone. Loosen the nut below it (if you can) and the valve then comes out. When everything is new it's not too difficult to remove, but after 3 decades it's stuck in there. There's a certain metric box wrench size that fits that nut. With that wrench it's not difficult to remove
Click to expand...

Yes I think that nut is 27mm. I’ve been wailing on it for a bit without success. I don’t have a great wrench for it. Just a cheapie harbor freight service set. Soaked it with blaster / heat cool. Working on it.
Click to expand...

Yes I think that nut is 27mm. I’ve been wailing on it for a bit without success. I don’t have a great wrench for it. Just a cheapie harbor freight service set. Soaked it with blaster / heat cool. Working on it.
 
Yeah it was totally clogged with carbon, you can kind of see it in the second photo. Interestingly looked like small crystals. I was able to clean it by soaking in some oven cleaner for a few hours and then blew it out with compressed air.
 
OhioFJ said:
Yeah it was totally clogged with carbon, you can kind of see it in the second photo. Interestingly looked like small crystals. I was able to clean it by soaking in some oven cleaner for a few hours and then blew it out with compressed air.
Click to expand...
Did this solve your problem?
 
I can’t say for sure; I don’t have to pass emissions here. It was one of many issues with the EGR system (clogged EGR valve, leaking EGR cooler, rusted through EGR down pipe.

I basically replaced or fixed all of these issues.
 
Nice! Just rebuilt the head in mine and underwent a full engine reseal (on-frame), she ran beautifully for a while then the stumbling came out of nowhere. I'm thinking your approach is probably where the attention needs to be directed next. Thanks for the detailed write up and prompt reply!
 
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