New owner of 83 FJ60 here. I know when I crank from a cold start I pull choke completely out and press the accelerator once and it cranks right up. The question is I drove to the gym this morning and to watch my daughters game the other day and after an hour or two (engines cold) did the same process of pulling choke pumping gas twice and it didn’t turn over. I then went into the flooded thought process and held the accelerator down completely and after two or three times it’s finally turned over. What’s the process?? Should the choke be out or in when holding it done cause it’s flooded? Should I just be able to turn the ignition? I’m learning as I go and although I had a carb when I was growing up it was EFI. Looking forward to this highly intelligent groups answer for this. Thanks guys!
Choke system (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ross1479
- Start date
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a carb (carburetor) is not the same as EFI (electronic Fuel Injection).
It sounds like you know the starting procedure from the owners manual. The choke is only required for the cold engine start. In my experience, after being off for only two hours, the warm starting procedure works fine. But this will depend on the ambient temperature, too.
There are a couple of vacuum operated linkages on the OEM carburetor that open the choke plate (1) immediately after the engine starts running and (2) once the engine is above 66 degF. This helps prevent an over rich mixture once the engine starts running. The fast idle speed will still be engaged if the choke know is pulled out.
You might check to see if these choke systems are working properly.
It sounds like you know the starting procedure from the owners manual. The choke is only required for the cold engine start. In my experience, after being off for only two hours, the warm starting procedure works fine. But this will depend on the ambient temperature, too.
There are a couple of vacuum operated linkages on the OEM carburetor that open the choke plate (1) immediately after the engine starts running and (2) once the engine is above 66 degF. This helps prevent an over rich mixture once the engine starts running. The fast idle speed will still be engaged if the choke know is pulled out.
You might check to see if these choke systems are working properly.
I struggle with describing this to my wife, so I'll do my best here... sadly, I might forget things because I just don't think about them (decades of carb motorcycle starts, it's just an automatic thing to my brain).
About the only time I choke FIRST is if the engine hasn't run overnight AND it's cool enough to warrant long sleeves in the morning. This tends to be about the 60F mark. Beyond that, I try starting without choke and just a little throttle (variable, maybe between 5 and 20%). If it doesn't want to start the first go-round, then I'll half-choke ~ my '82 has a half-detent which makes it easy. Then try starting again but less throttle. If still no go, then full choke but ZERO THROTTLE.... if it won't start then, there's another issue... maybe it's flooded, but that's not normal. Like every Toyota I've ever owned, the 60 takes several seconds of cranking before it fires up.
Our VW makes it a little easier for the wife, has a temp spring that sets the choke with 1 pump of the throttle, Odd that something that worked so smoothly in 1966 wasn't used in the 1980's.
Beyond that, if you have more trouble starting only some of the time, but consistently being either hot or cold, then you're most likely dealing with a valve lash issue. I've had motorcycles go both ways. start easy when cold but hard when hot, and start hard when cold but easy when hot. Our VW gets harder to cold start when the valves need to be adjusted... I don't have enough miles/time with the 60 to know what it's temperament is like (only had a thousand miles before I did the valve adjustment).
About the only time I choke FIRST is if the engine hasn't run overnight AND it's cool enough to warrant long sleeves in the morning. This tends to be about the 60F mark. Beyond that, I try starting without choke and just a little throttle (variable, maybe between 5 and 20%). If it doesn't want to start the first go-round, then I'll half-choke ~ my '82 has a half-detent which makes it easy. Then try starting again but less throttle. If still no go, then full choke but ZERO THROTTLE.... if it won't start then, there's another issue... maybe it's flooded, but that's not normal. Like every Toyota I've ever owned, the 60 takes several seconds of cranking before it fires up.
Our VW makes it a little easier for the wife, has a temp spring that sets the choke with 1 pump of the throttle, Odd that something that worked so smoothly in 1966 wasn't used in the 1980's.
Beyond that, if you have more trouble starting only some of the time, but consistently being either hot or cold, then you're most likely dealing with a valve lash issue. I've had motorcycles go both ways. start easy when cold but hard when hot, and start hard when cold but easy when hot. Our VW gets harder to cold start when the valves need to be adjusted... I don't have enough miles/time with the 60 to know what it's temperament is like (only had a thousand miles before I did the valve adjustment).
I agree that half or slight choke should work. Also if some of the fuel evaporated out of the bowl to the charcoal canister, then you may need to do a few 5 second crank reps to get enough fuel in the bowl and the idle circuit.
