Changing the Manifolds on the 2F

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I agree, I replaced my 82 fj40 mainfolds with new ones.........best money spent, runs like a dream, cured all kinds of little issues.

John

Civil1 said:
I just replaced my in/ex manifold this past Memorial day weekend with a brand new unit. So far it has been the best money spent on the old girl. My previous intake was cracked and the heat riser flap was gone all together. Not to mention that the most of the manifold bolts were finger tight which explains alot. Use CDan for the parts if you can he has the best prices by far. Take your time, don't get in a hurry or your in for some headaches. Like above, use the correct torque sequence that is outlined in the FSM. Nothing really hard about it, it just takes some time. I did not mark all my vacuum lines because I have the emissions manual and wanted to make sure that they all went back where they were supposed to system by system. But you should mark them if you don't have the manual.
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Did you guys take anything else off inside the engine compartment to get at the maifolds? I don't want to, but if it is necessary, I will.

:beer:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Did you guys take anything else off inside the engine compartment to get at the maifolds? I don't want to, but if it is necessary, I will.

:beer:
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I took off the power steering pump and brackets and also removed the smog pump. I just makes it alot easier and they are not hard to take off.
 
You can save money by buying the gasket kit rather than piece by piece. But if you're going piecemeal, you'll also need the EGR manifold gasket, the EGR inlet gasket for the intake manifold, and exhaust doughnut. Someone already mentioned the EGR pipe and hardware. I don't know if the new manifolds come with EGR pipe studs, but I would replace the lug nuts.

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jwest said:
You can save money by buying the gasket kit rather than piece by piece. But if you're going piecemeal, you'll also need the EGR manifold gasket, the EGR inlet gasket for the intake manifold, and exhaust doughnut. Someone already mentioned the EGR pipe and hardware. I don't know if the new manifolds come with EGR pipe studs, but I would replace the lug nuts.

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Ditto on that, mine came with studs and I replaced the nuts. Be sure to check the PVC tube while you have it out. Mine was completely clogged with carbon and gunk.
 
Well, I just recieved the parts in the post yesterday, and I have a few questions. Should I be able to close the heat riser with my hand while it is off the car? I thought I should, but maybe I'm wrong.

Also, did the design change on the manifolds on the 2F during the 60 series production run? I think that the manifolds I got are different.

:beer:
 
Well, my 2F engine manual says that the two manifold bolts are located under the two manifolds when mated. On the one that I got, they were in the middle. I just realized that they are exactly the same, but in better condition.

I did buy a matched set.

:beer:
 
Oh, I forgot to add that when I stuck my hand up into the exhaust manifold, I tried to close the heat riser, but something was stopping it. Any suggestions?

:beer:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Oh, I forgot to add that when I stuck my hand up into the exhaust manifold, I tried to close the heat riser, but something was stopping it. Any suggestions?

:beer:
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Come to think of it, I don't think that I tried to move mine. The coil spring on the front side of the manifold expands and contracts with temperature causing the flap/valve to open and close. Don't know if you will be able to open it with your hand.
 
That makes me feel much better. I hope that you are not supposed to be able to because I can't. I can't wait to get my truck back together.

:beer:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
That makes me feel much better. I hope that you are not supposed to be able to because I can't. I can't wait to get my truck back together.

:beer:
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I know, my truck was down for about a week and it drove me crazy. :mad:

Some other things to watch out for are the two vacuum fittings that thread into the intake manifold. Make sure that the threads are clean and straight before you put them in, don't want to screw up the new intake. I replaced all my vacuum lines while I had it off. I did a lot of cleaning while I was waiting for parts and decided that I could clean it better if I took the air rail off and ended up breaking it at the #6 cylinder port. So be careful with that if you go that route.

Hope you get it done soon. :cheers:
 
I was smart and had the seller keep the fittings on so that I don't have to mess with them. Hopefully, I will get the project done soon. Thanks for the luck!!!

I'll keep you posted.

:beer:
 
GLTH,

Yup, 6th air rail is a pain. And also be sure the manifold surface is flat before you bolt it backup ... or ... like me ... who checked for leaks yesterday ... I *won* and get to do the job over again.

Yea-haw !

:doh:

Cahil
 
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