CB vs. Ham Radio (1 Viewer)

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Ham no question for this group and most others. It just works better.

Sent via the ether from my candy bar running ginger bread
 
What rusty said!!
I snubbed my nose at the "egg head" ham guys! That was until my rig broke on the trail w/ no cell service and one guy was able to call up another guy who split off from the group and was back DOWN the hill!!! Long story short... Saved my ass, and I was in the NEXT 2M test!!!

K
 
CB is great to communicate with the group.

I have a HAM because I do alot of stuff on my own, and if I get stuck, broke or hurt in the middle of no where, a cb is useless.
 
Ham all the way! In the last official ride, most everyone with transceivers had 2m rigs. There was one CB only rig... so I put my CB antenna to relay info when I could. CB generally suck, poor sound quality and poor range. And with most everyone on 2m, those without will miss out on a lot of banter (some informative, some not).

It only takes a few hours to prepare oneself for the HAM license test. It is very hard not to pass! And you can pick up cheap 2m rigs cheaply.

-- Kurt
 
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shady said:
CB is great to communicate with the group.

I have a HAM because I do alot of stuff on my own, and if I get stuck, broke or hurt in the middle of no where, a cb is useless.
Click to expand...

Thing is, though... Most of us have converted to the 2M so there's no CB's.
it also depends on the group you're wheeling with too.
Another group that I go with are all on CB...
I have both for that reason.
 
shady said:
CB is great to communicate with the group.

I have a HAM because I do alot of stuff on my own, and if I get stuck, broke or hurt in the middle of no where, a cb is useless.
Click to expand...
The UHF/VHF (2M and 70cm) radios which most of use will also be pretty useless in remote areas unless there are open repeaters, you can hit one from where ever you get stuck/broke/hurt, and you know the frequencies, offsets and Pl tones.

If you want reliable back country comm you need to get into HF, 6M or 10M, AM SSB. Radios that use these frequencies are the standard in the Oz outback and other really remote regions. At those low frequencies mobile antennas start to become a problem. Not insurmountable but a lot more money, time, and effort than most of us want to invest.
 
I use2 meter mostly but i have a all band all mode ham rig thats in my vehicle i also have antennas to work all bands but i dont leave the hf antenna on when wheelin it cost to darn much to chance it getting wreck. but i can install that antenna in like 3 min or less i have a cb as well but it stays off pretty much all the time




Dan :cheers::steer::bounce::bounce2:
 
chicago said:
What rusty said!!... Long story short... Saved my ass, and I was in the NEXT 2M test!!!

K
Click to expand...
Another test is coming up one month from today on May 4th at the Reno Ham Swap.
Testing starts at 9AM.
For first timers there's also a "HAM Cram" (a one day class culminating in a test) starting at 8AM being offered.
I earned my license after a class taught by the same teacher, David Book (KD7YIM).

Details here: Reno Ham Swap One Day Ham Class
 
NTTD said:
Another test is coming up one month from today on May 4th at the Reno Ham Swap.
Testing starts at 9AM.
For first timers there's also a "HAM Cram" (a one day class culminating in a test) starting at 8AM being offered.
I earned my license after a class taught by the same teacher, David Book (KD7YIM).

Details here: Reno Ham Swap One Day Ham Class
Click to expand...



Hmmm... I'm tempted to try and make this. It's a bit premature on my end as my truck is still in pieces but I would like to explore my options and be ready to hit the trails with the club as soon as I have an operational vehicle.


On a related "HAM/CB" note... I've got the wiring harness for my FJ40 laid out in the wife's craft room at present while I work on my 3F-E conversion. I want to add any and all circuits I could conceivably need in the future while I've got it out. I'm thinking I'd like to add a fuse circuit to the fuse panel for a CB/HAM radio to be mounted in the center console. Aside from a switched 12v wire to power the unit, can you guys throw me any tips on what else I should add to the harness since I've got it laying out and unwrapped?

Proof of the carnage:

2768D76D-1A70-4E05-88F6-AE7D55681D3A-15057-00001AE881513F75_zps741b986d.jpg

Thanks much!
 
I find FMRS more useful than CB unless I'm looking for someone to pick up my hitchiking butt.

Lee, put RF chokes on the power leads to any electronics (CB/HAM/Radio) to help eliminate Spark Plug/HAM xmission static). I put my sbc computer in a ground bag as well.

Paul
 
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The big take away from the link above is

1- wire power directly to the battery of a jump point.
2- make a direct ground connection to the battery or a jump point.
3- fuse both +V and Ground connections

I have never heard a good explanation for #3 but every radio manufacturer recommends it and I have seen blow ground fuses. The most probable explanation I have heard is that a large RF spike on the radio input will result in a substantial amount of current flow to ground from the radio. Imagine someone parked next to you keying up at 100W.

The FJ40 OEM fuse box has basically no spares. I think you will want to add an Aux fuse panel. Painless wiring makes a variety of fuse blocks with a mix of # of circuits and switched constant configurations. Blue Sea is another manufacturer, more of a boat/marine product but perfect for off road applications.
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/Blue...h+Cover.html?gclid=CLvMgqaMvLYCFW3ZQgodZzUAmA

One thing to think about as long as you have the harness out is replacing the OEM fuse block with one that uses blade type fuses. I would absolutely do this if I was as far into it as you are. You could also add a half dozen circuits and eliminate the need for an Aux fuse block.
 
If you go to blade style fuses, then use circuit breakers instead of the actual fuses. They reset when you remove power (turn truck off). That way you don't have to carry 20 fuses with you.

Still protect HAM equipment with a fast acting FUSE. If you are blowing those, find out why before proceeding.

And for the ground fuse, I'm thinking it's also for protection when you drive your 6m whip antenna almost under that low hanging power line, or, that your roof will act like your own ground plane possibly moving a lot of current when the amp is keyed. Also, I'd have to think a little more, but what happens when the ground floats, momentary voltage differences could certainly cause unwanted ground currents -- especially if, say, the antenna was grounded separately.
I have a ground bus on my truck, after this convo I want to test the current draw off the bus to the frame and/or body just to see what kind of fuse I would have to use. I just need to get all my gadgets inside first.
 
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