Castor Correction?

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Joined
Jun 1, 2006
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Location
North Jersey
I’m planning on adding OME lift components to my 93 Cruiser. I’m wonder what is the best caster correction for the following setup, keeping in mind this is my DD. I don’t want to have any driveline issues or vibrations I’ve seen the MAF drop brackets and can’t say I want to loose clearance or care for the look. Will the standard OME caster correction be enough What if any sway bar drops will I need?

OME850J front
OME863J rear
rear Kaymar bumper
front ARB bumper with winch
LT285 75R16

Thanx






 
Can't specifically answer your questions but as an fyi, I just ordered 851/860 springs and went with the MAF 3" front drop bracket (db). I may or may not add the 30mm trim packers depending on the rake so if i don't, my caster may end up on the high side but we'll see. My reason for going with the MAF db is that as my daily driver and my trailer hauler, I want the closest thing to stock steering as possible. Only having a mild lift of 2.5" and this db, I don't believe I'll have driveline issues.
From a wheeling perspective, having the db in approx. the stock location IMHO will not make a clearance difference when offroading. I mainly use my rig for wilderness camping/ expeditions and medium difficulty off-road trails and avoid doing any rock crawling again, since its my dd. I use my 4Rnr for AZ dry washes when I do get that itch. Once I get it in (~2 weeks), I'll post my opinions on how I like the overall setup.

WET
 
Because you are getting J's you would think that OME CC will not be enough. However because you have a loaded truck (armour and winch) I think that you will find it will not be far off. If I were you I would go with the OME CC unless you plan on also adding spacers/trim packers to the front. That extra 1 " would push you into the Slee castor plate or Slee front control arm range. I just have the heavy fronts/medium rear with stock bushings. CC just rolling around in back still. Really need to get off my A&& and put them in soon.
 
I am currently about to put on the same lift (within the next week or so). I was told by the guys at land cruiser NW that the CC bushings would correct it some, but not back to stock, so I am considering getting Slee's caster plates, welding is not an issue for me. Does anyone have these? want to know if they are a good route to go. also if I were to put an arb bumper on w/ this lift, thinking future plans here, how tall of spacers would you go?
 
I agree with Christo. If this is more DD than wheeler, i would go with the heavy springs and CC bushings. That would be your cheapest option and should get you really close. After that install, get the truck on an alignment rack and see if you need plates. It's really not that big of a deal to press the CC bushings out and put the plates on.
 
Sackman said:
I am currently about to put on the same lift (within the next week or so). I was told by the guys at land cruiser NW that the CC bushings would correct it some, but not back to stock, so I am considering getting Slee's caster plates, welding is not an issue for me. Does anyone have these? want to know if they are a good route to go. also if I were to put an arb bumper on w/ this lift, thinking future plans here, how tall of spacers would you go?


I have the plates and have enjoyed them. I have not had a chance to measure my castor, but my rig has a medium lift with 1 inch mr. gasket spacers in front along with a bullbar. My rig tracks pretty darn straight compared to my roommates truck that has heavy springs, no bull bar and CC bushings. His rig wanders pretty bad compared to mine.

Our flare to center hub measurements are very close to the same.
 
I have a 91 with the "J's" and I wouldn't recomend it unless you cary a really heavy load. I have no driveline issues and the truck tracks perfect but the rear is just to darn high. I would go with the heavies and leave it at that. I have that set up on my 94 with CC bushings. The rear is going to be slightly higher but the first time you load it up for a trip it levels right out and tracks perfect. I also run 285 Revo. Great set up. Run from the drop brackets (IMHO) you loose clearance and they look dumb. Just my .02
 
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wileetoyote said:
Can't specifically answer your questions but as an fyi, I just ordered 851/860 springs and went with the MAF 3" front drop bracket (db). I may or may not add the 30mm trim packers depending on the rake so if i don't, my caster may end up on the high side but we'll see. My reason for going with the MAF db is that as my daily driver and my trailer hauler, I want the closest thing to stock steering as possible. Only having a mild lift of 2.5" and this db, I don't believe I'll have driveline issues.WET

Sounds vaguely familiar. I think I'm one of two on MUD running the Drop Brackets and J springs. Other than non-existant instructions, I'm happy with them. The truck drives super straight, nothing spooky doing corners much wilder than I'd suggest - but I wanted to push it once or twice so I'd have some idea of how it would handle in an emergency. No surprises what-so-ever. I did 2" drop on front bump stops (bought from MAF), 2" drop on front swaybars (cutting a section of 2x2x1/4" tube and drilling two holes is too easy to pay someone else for), still need to put the extended SS brake lines on and rear sway bar drop. The only thing that isn't the way I want it is I really need adjustable panard bars, especially in the back since it sits arse high.

This is my daily driver, about 7-8 miles back and forth to work, sometimes on 2 lane, some days on 4 lane hwy depending on how I feel. I'd have no qualms about letting my wife drive my 9 week old son in it, or handing the keys to anyone. I've owned rigs I wouldn't say that of.

Off-Road - also no issues. I've gone up stuff that will hang me on the rear brackets over and over, and down the same stuff, and the front brackets have never dragged. I think the rears are more of an issue off-road than the fronts. I'm also contemplating using the old trailing arm bolt as part of a mount for my sliders. Might as well, it's there right?
 
Heavies all the way around with an ARB up front, nothing out back and OME CC bushings and it's not enough. Around town driving is fine, but get out on the highway with even a slight cross wind and it darts around. I'm going back to OEM bushings and using a plate.
 
Personally, I'm running J's with no castor correction. I have no driveline vibrations or issues. It does wander a bit, but no where near as bad as any other lifted vehicle I have driven. I would put the OME bushings in and if you still don't like it, then look at other options. Every truck is different and every driver is different, therefore, this is kind of a guess and check type of deal. HTH
 
I've got OME heavies in the front, mediums in the rear. The list of heavy stuff I've got is shown below in my sig.

I have no vibration problems, and with the stock tires I felt no need to do the castor correction. When I went up to the 33" tires I could feel that things got a bit twitchier and I did the caster correction using the OME bushings.

Until I put the sliders on, I was very happy with the height of the rig. With the sliders on, the back sat down a bit more and I sometimes wish I'd gone with the heavies in the back. I also have a feeling that if I'd gone with the heavies, I might be thinking that it sits a bit high in the back. I think I'm going to try some 1/2 inch spacers and call it a day.
 
Almost forgot - no driveline vibrations. Rig has 180,000 miles on it, I'm assuming origional joints. I greased them when I lifted, and I feel lucky I didn't have to do anything else.
 
850J's and 863's w/ castor correction bushings and pretty stable for a big heavy rig (arb w/ warn 12000, sliders, rear a little high but I plan on weighing it down). Ran it for a couple of months with no castor correction and I would not recommend it for highway driving - twitchy and dangerous feeling in corners.
 
Christo,

What would you suggest for the highest lift possible short of going to your 4” bolt on kit with the options I’ve stated plus sliders that will give me good road manners? The caster bushings or caster plates are not a problem for me to install. Also what can I do to correct the stinkbug look? Throw me some options.

Thanks
George
 
gscherer said:
Christo,

What would you suggest for the highest lift possible short of going to your 4” bolt on kit with the options I’ve stated plus sliders that will give me good road manners? The caster bushings or caster plates are not a problem for me to install. Also what can I do to correct the stinkbug look? Throw me some options.

Thanks
George

Anything above the 2.5" range you start changing geometry that could cause problems.

If you read the above posts, you will find that even the people that say they have no issues with the J springs, mention wandering, etc etc. Handling and driveability is a totally subjective matter. Some people are just more sensitive to bad handling than others.

I would run 850/863 with bushings and add 1 or 2 packers in the front if you feel the front is nose down. This meets your criteria of not having issues. You could start with 850j's but if that does not work, you need to sell them and buy 850's. So starting with 850's and adding packers is the sure bet.

We are pretty conservative when we spec suspensions. Most people buy the 80 because of it's ability to run highway's in comfort and then still wheel hard trails. We do not like to screw up the highway capability, for the sake of inches of lift. Unless the truck is a toy, does not see a lot of highway miles, and the owner knows what he is in for. We also go from the standpoint of what tire size are you going to run vs just inches of lift.
 

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