Carb Removal

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Joined
Jul 21, 2004
Threads
35
Messages
569
Location
Colorado
Pulling the carb to get it rebuilt this week. Other than labeling all the vacuum lines and and taking some pics for linkage, any other tips or stuff to watch out for to make sure it goes back on smooth?
 
The biggest issue that I had when I pulled mine off was getting to the nuts on the back side. You have to have a couple of different length and angles of open-end wrenches to really get at them.

Also, inspect all of the heat sheild stuff and make sure nothing is torn up - and also it's a good time to inspect the intake manifold. If there's ever been a point in it's life where the carb fan hasn't worked, the heat will cause cracks in the manifold (worth a look).
 
The air filter housing comes off for sure and what swank said about the wrenches is a trueism. I took mine off and replaced about a week ago and the nuts were only finger tight all I had to do is spin them off. PO was lazy I guess. No wonder it ran poorly. Getting them on was a different story. I am just a bit too tall to climb into the engine bay and a bit too short to stand on the floor. so I looked like a circus performer trying to get the right angle to get at them. The throtle linkage and the choke cable were the most difficult for me to get appart and back together as I also have short fat fingers. If you take the carb heat shield off be carefull as it is fiberous material and will crack very easily.
 
get a 12mm(or maybe its 14) distributor wrench, works BEAUTIFULL! Snap On makes one, about $25 WELL worth it. A claw foot and or snubby can work.

take everything off you can.
 
Factory emisions manual is very helpful. It seems like pulling the valve cover made it easier. If you are taking pics, shoot the carb linkage also.
 
second the manual

thanks j (emil here). get a manual and go to work.

i've got it memorized now. my carbs have been off a good 14 times. about to send one off now to get reworked to run ethanol/gas blend (e85).

emil in dc, drooling at the thought of getting an HZJ75 troopie for biodiesel. until then, fj60 on the grain....
 
Thanks guys - Went exactly as you all described. Took lots of pics and dug up a 1/2" stubby that worked to get the 2 inside 12mm nuts off. They were'nt very tight. Dropping it off tomorrow for the rebuild. I've only driven it about 10 miles since the new paint job because the accelerator pump started crapping out as soon as I left my buddy's shop. It's killin' me just sitting there all dressed up and no place to go.
 
I've pulled my carb twice. The first time was easier by far because I set my valve lash at the same time and had the valve cover off. It's not worth messing with if your valves are not in need of adjusting or checking but without the cover in the way the two side nuts are much easier to get at.
 
OOps guess you don't need more advice its already off. If the accel pump was the only problem you didn't need to pull the whole carb. The accel pump can be accessed by unscrewing the top of the carb and lifting it off.
 
Yeah, I figured it could be fixed without yanking the whole thing, but @ 215K she's due for a rebuild.
 

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