This week... got the clutch, flywheel, and bell housings off (jammed a piece of wood between the bell housing and flywheel guide pin to stop the flywheel from moving like Builds - Treebeard - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/treebeard.1186748/page-11#post-12951348. Then built a HF engine stand and took four hours to get the engine on there.
It looks so wrong being on an engine stand, even though I'm pretty sure everything is connected right! Got the correct bolts and bolted up to the bell housing mounting bolts. It's just so cantilevered and heavy. It's wild to me that there are no bolts or pins holding the mounting plate to the stand, other then the little pin for orientation.
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Unfortunately the legs from the stand and the hoist are the same height, so they hit each other when you’re trying to shuffle them around. So you can’t have them both connected to the engine without elevating one of them - hence the cinder blocks in the first photo. Or could put the hoist at the 1/2 ton setting to stick the engine out further so the legs don’t conflict, but that seems even more sketchy.Ugh it does look incredibly awkward. Honestly I don’t think I ever left one of my 2Fs on a stand without the hoist as backup. I’m sure it’s fine but it looks super wrong haha. Nice progress!
Finally acquired a new engine, thanks @TIANOL! Rented a U-Haul van, drove down to Southern California, picked it up, and returned it all in one day (600 miles round trip). Now just need to swap the exhaust manifold, install my new clutch kit + old bell housing, and put it in! Looks like it might be leaking from the rear main seal... everything on MUD I've read says you need to drop the oil pan to replace that easily, which I'd really like to avoid.
Moving engines isn't easy with just a HF 2-ton hoist. If I did this again I'd try to find a van with a lower floor loading height (this is ~28") and a bigger opening, as it was pretty narrow, and had to use a come-along to pull it fully into the van to close the doors (and to pull it out of the van to take it out). Or an old pickup, since all new pickups are super tall.
(not me in the photo below, my roommate, so white'd out for privacy)
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I'm tempted to give that a shot, it seems like people sometimes have luck with it (FJ60 rear main seal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj60-rear-main-seal.978612/). The other part of me is considering trying to put in a H55F and rebuild the transfer case at some point when this is all over (later this year?), and that would be a great opportunity to pull the clutch and bell housing off of this and get it done properly. Then I'll have successfully taken the whole powertrain out of the truck in pieces
That gasket/seal is the exhaust pipe gasket/donut gasket, Toyota PN 90917-06056.What is this gasket/seal at the bottom of my exhaust manifold (where it connects to the exhaust pipe)? It's completely shredded and I'd love to get a new one.
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Anyone recognize these headers or know if they will pass muster in California? I do like them and their look and wouldn't mind holding on to them for a different day.
Yeah, this is what I decided to do with similar thinking. Away from the truck for a bit but will give this a shot next week. Figured it wouldn't hurt, worst case scenario the bearing is a bit loose (I think) so the input shaft might be able to move around a little (I think) which sounds bad but not as bad as not being able to put things together.Not sure offhand, but as long as the inner race of the bearing is fully on the straight section of the input shaft, it should be fine.
If it were my truck, I'd use some scotch brite to clean up the snout so that the bearing can slide all the way up to the start of the spline taper. Without some careful measuring to see how far the bearing would sit on the shaft when installed, it's hard to answer your question for sure, but I wouldn't want it to bind up before fully bolted in.