Builds Cara the white '84 FJ60! (3 Viewers)

ntdb

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This is what the bellhousing side of the 4 speed transmission looks like. You can see the four tabs that are used to bolt it to the bellhousing. I’m not sure what that triangle plate is. 🤔

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kenavt

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Alright, the engine is finally out! Got caught up in removing the exhaust pipe (ended up just pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds) and those four transmission bolts. I got the lower passenger-side trans/bell housing bolt through where the front driveshaft was, and the upper passenger-side one similar to how @ntdb did it in #220 with a ton of wobblers and extensions.

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To square the circle around the confusing triangle plate... my guess was right. Still not sure what that plate is for but there's the triangle shape.

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I also started pulling the dash apart to get at the coolant hoses inside the dash. My entire coolant system just looks absolutely gross... pictured below are the T-stat gaskets that I replaced last January (so they only had like 6 months and 2k miles on them). Need to figure out how to remove the heater control panel to continue there.

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kenavt

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This week... got the clutch, flywheel, and bell housings off (jammed a piece of wood between the bell housing and flywheel guide pin to stop the flywheel from moving like Builds - Treebeard - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/treebeard.1186748/page-11#post-12951348. Then built a HF engine stand and took four hours to get the engine on there.

It looks so wrong being on an engine stand, even though I'm pretty sure everything is connected right! Got the correct bolts and bolted up to the bell housing mounting bolts. It's just so cantilevered and heavy. It's wild to me that there are no bolts or pins holding the mounting plate to the stand, other then the little pin for orientation.

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ntdb

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This week... got the clutch, flywheel, and bell housings off (jammed a piece of wood between the bell housing and flywheel guide pin to stop the flywheel from moving like Builds - Treebeard - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/treebeard.1186748/page-11#post-12951348. Then built a HF engine stand and took four hours to get the engine on there.

It looks so wrong being on an engine stand, even though I'm pretty sure everything is connected right! Got the correct bolts and bolted up to the bell housing mounting bolts. It's just so cantilevered and heavy. It's wild to me that there are no bolts or pins holding the mounting plate to the stand, other then the little pin for orientation.

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Ugh it does look incredibly awkward. Honestly I don’t think I ever left one of my 2Fs on a stand without the hoist as backup. I’m sure it’s fine but it looks super wrong haha. Nice progress!
 

kenavt

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Ugh it does look incredibly awkward. Honestly I don’t think I ever left one of my 2Fs on a stand without the hoist as backup. I’m sure it’s fine but it looks super wrong haha. Nice progress!
Unfortunately the legs from the stand and the hoist are the same height, so they hit each other when you’re trying to shuffle them around. So you can’t have them both connected to the engine without elevating one of them - hence the cinder blocks in the first photo. Or could put the hoist at the 1/2 ton setting to stick the engine out further so the legs don’t conflict, but that seems even more sketchy.
 

kenavt

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Finally acquired a new engine, thanks @TIANOL! Rented a U-Haul van, drove down to Southern California, picked it up, and returned it all in one day (600 miles round trip). Now just need to swap the exhaust manifold, install my new clutch kit + old bell housing, and put it in! Looks like it might be leaking from the rear main seal... everything on MUD I've read says you need to drop the oil pan to replace that easily, which I'd really like to avoid.

Moving engines isn't easy with just a HF 2-ton hoist. If I did this again I'd try to find a van with a lower floor loading height (this is ~28") and a bigger opening, as it was pretty narrow, and had to use a come-along to pull it fully into the van to close the doors (and to pull it out of the van to take it out). Or an old pickup, since all new pickups are super tall.

(not me in the photo below, my roommate, so white'd out for privacy)

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ntdb

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Finally acquired a new engine, thanks @TIANOL! Rented a U-Haul van, drove down to Southern California, picked it up, and returned it all in one day (600 miles round trip). Now just need to swap the exhaust manifold, install my new clutch kit + old bell housing, and put it in! Looks like it might be leaking from the rear main seal... everything on MUD I've read says you need to drop the oil pan to replace that easily, which I'd really like to avoid.

Moving engines isn't easy with just a HF 2-ton hoist. If I did this again I'd try to find a van with a lower floor loading height (this is ~28") and a bigger opening, as it was pretty narrow, and had to use a come-along to pull it fully into the van to close the doors (and to pull it out of the van to take it out). Or an old pickup, since all new pickups are super tall.

(not me in the photo below, my roommate, so white'd out for privacy)

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Yesss finally! I’m excited to see this go in. FWIW you don’t need to remove the oil pan to replace the RMS. It’s this rubber piece. Should be pretty easy since you don’t have the bellhousing on currently. Maybe that’s not the bit that’s leaking?

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kenavt

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Yesss finally! I’m excited to see this go in. FWIW you don’t need to remove the oil pan to replace the RMS. It’s this rubber piece. Should be pretty easy since you don’t have the bellhousing on currently. Maybe that’s not the bit that’s leaking?

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I'm tempted to give that a shot, it seems like people sometimes have luck with it (FJ60 rear main seal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj60-rear-main-seal.978612/). The other part of me is considering trying to put in a H55F and rebuild the transfer case at some point when this is all over (later this year?), and that would be a great opportunity to pull the clutch and bell housing off of this and get it done properly. Then I'll have successfully taken the whole powertrain out of the truck in pieces 😂

Some oil also came out by the filter when I was transporting the engine, so the whole oil pan is wet, and the engine was rebuilt four years ago per PO... so tempted to just let it slide.

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kenavt

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Huh, weird. Mine went right in without dropping the pan. I guess it’s a risk.
Maybe I'll get the parts, eyeball it, and if it doesn't seem like it's going to slide in then I have the parts for the next go-around.
 

kenavt

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kenavt

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Alright, well I've got more then that for my engine install job. After taking a good look at this block, I'm confused how it was passing smog... among other things, didn't have a smog pump installed and was running non-OEM headers (plus not having an air injection rail or that EGR system. Also popped the manifolds off to see that the manifold gasket was in 5+ pieces. So I've got some more installing of things to do. I'm not sure if I can cut corners on my smog equipment or not... I'm thinking that I'll just hook everything up as OEM as possible (junk the headers, install my old EGR and air injection rail), get the truck running, get tested, and then go from there.

A few questions for folks because I cannot figure these things out:

What is this part? It was in the bin of spare parts I got from the PO and I cannot figure it out.

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What is this gasket/seal at the bottom of my exhaust manifold (where it connects to the exhaust pipe)? It's completely shredded and I'd love to get a new one.

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Anyone recognize these headers or know if they will pass muster in California? I do like them and their look and wouldn't mind holding on to them for a different day.



And a bonus treat... here is the manifold gasket :(

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kenavt

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Quick question for folks as I wrench away here late at night... should a new pilot bearing slide more onto the transmission input shaft then this? From this thread (H55f install problem - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/h55f-install-problem.656105/#post-8104767) I would think it should go on farther. But I do think there are slight wear marks on the shaft in this position.

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To answer my previous questions:
What is this gasket/seal at the bottom of my exhaust manifold (where it connects to the exhaust pipe)? It's completely shredded and I'd love to get a new one.

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Anyone recognize these headers or know if they will pass muster in California? I do like them and their look and wouldn't mind holding on to them for a different day.
That gasket/seal is the exhaust pipe gasket/donut gasket, Toyota PN 90917-06056.

I don't know about the headers but I would really like to run them if I could. Just mounted my old EGR system and I can feel in my bones there will be problems even though the gaskets are new.
 

GLTHFJ60

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Not sure offhand, but as long as the inner race of the bearing is fully on the straight section of the input shaft, it should be fine.

If it were my truck, I'd use some scotch brite to clean up the snout so that the bearing can slide all the way up to the start of the spline taper. Without some careful measuring to see how far the bearing would sit on the shaft when installed, it's hard to answer your question for sure, but I wouldn't want it to bind up before fully bolted in.
 

kenavt

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Not sure offhand, but as long as the inner race of the bearing is fully on the straight section of the input shaft, it should be fine.

If it were my truck, I'd use some scotch brite to clean up the snout so that the bearing can slide all the way up to the start of the spline taper. Without some careful measuring to see how far the bearing would sit on the shaft when installed, it's hard to answer your question for sure, but I wouldn't want it to bind up before fully bolted in.
Yeah, this is what I decided to do with similar thinking. Away from the truck for a bit but will give this a shot next week. Figured it wouldn't hurt, worst case scenario the bearing is a bit loose (I think) so the input shaft might be able to move around a little (I think) which sounds bad but not as bad as not being able to put things together.
 

GLTHFJ60

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The bearing fit needs to be pretty tight, or else you risk galling the input shaft (and thus ruining it). Don't use sandpaper, unless a very fine grit and just up against the shoulder where it's tight right now.

More likely than not there's just some gunk on the input shaft nose, so scotch brite would be the best option IMO.
 

kenavt

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Finally got back into town and time to try the pilot bearing again.

Tried a scotchbrite sponge, which didn't quite do the trick - then got 400-grit sandpaper and that allowed the pilot bearing to go nicely onto the input shaft. Went to press it in and... put some force across the inside shielding and broke the bearing like a huge dummy.

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Took that as an excuse to go out to Valley Hybrids for the first time! Georg and team set me up with a new Koyo bearing (PN for the pilot is 6202ZZC3) and I got to poke around the shop for a bit. The red FJ62 that was in for service... has most of what I want to put on this truck eventually (4plus rear bumper, 33x10.5", roof rack). So many cool machines in there.

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Then it was time for the pilot bearing again... found a socket that would act against the outer race. It went in at an angle and was binding up, but fortunately was able to use my Big Orange Hammer to straighten it out and pound it home. Second picture shows what was used to do the last couple mm... big thanks to Georg for that tip to use the old bearing just as I was leaving the shop.

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kenavt

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Then did the throwout bearing, which was much easier. Used a wood block with sanded edges to knock out the collar, and more pieces of wood with wood clamps to press the new one in:

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kenavt

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And went to finally, finally put the bell housing on, went to tighten the bolts to 80 ft-lbs with my torque wrench (based on reading Bellhousing to Engine torque specs (real time) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bellhousing-to-engine-torque-specs-real-time.611564/) and ... sheared the head off one of them!! $#$%#$ Thankfully got it extracted quickly since it was protruding from the block, was barely finger tight.

Now I'm really paranoid about these bolts. I wonder if they were too long. The ones I had on hand (which I thought were from the same bell housing on a different block) had a thread length of ~34mm when they should be 30mm per @Coolerman's signature's docs. Or... I honestly have no idea. Probably going to get all new ones from Home Depot or rush-order from McMasterCarr for bell housing to block, and consider doing it for everything else in the bell housing.

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Everything with this truck is one step forward, two steps back. It's taking forever and I'm getting pretty frustrated. Putting the bell housing, clutch, flywheel should be straight forward but apparently not!
 

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