Cap Debate ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter southpier
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I like SNUGTop. But it's not listed on your thread.
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I like the "windoors" option, where the windows have locking knobs, and raise up on hinges and gas struts, makes reaching into the bed easier.
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we had a carpet kit in our old Silverado, and it definitely offered some insulation, and sound dampening. As far as condensation, yeah, it kept it off you, but still soaked it up. Basically we'd yank all the junk out at the end of spring, and let it all air-dry in our driveway before vacuuming it, to keep it from getting really funky.
Duane
IH8MUD Wookie
some thoughts in no particular order...
- ask about pricing and availability of replacement windows(especially the back one) and of the gas struts
- I would choose a model with the reinforcement built into the roof for the roof racks or one with a rack already as I don't thinkl you can just screw a rack onto a design not made to support a load on top.
- I think a model with 2 locks on the back are more secure than a single lock setup.
- some have a rear cargo light already installed 12V which can be a handy thing.
- some may have a rear brake/clearance light which is a safe thing..not sure on this item
- getting a deflector at the back of it to create a down draft helps keep the rear window clearer on dirty and snowy roads
- depending on what roof line you want but a step up rear can be handy when trying to load larger items
- ask about pricing and availability of replacement windows(especially the back one) and of the gas struts
- I would choose a model with the reinforcement built into the roof for the roof racks or one with a rack already as I don't thinkl you can just screw a rack onto a design not made to support a load on top.
- I think a model with 2 locks on the back are more secure than a single lock setup.
- some have a rear cargo light already installed 12V which can be a handy thing.
- some may have a rear brake/clearance light which is a safe thing..not sure on this item
- getting a deflector at the back of it to create a down draft helps keep the rear window clearer on dirty and snowy roads
- depending on what roof line you want but a step up rear can be handy when trying to load larger items
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all very good points!
although for point #2 I'd suggest maybe looking into a shell-accessible lumber rack, all the weight gets distributed to the sides of the bed, and with some mods, (really just grating above the camper) would be a very nice expo rack.
My dad runs one of these things, and it's helped on may different trips and projects, the only down sides are the price, and the TONS of body roll it adds.
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that's the way to go, man.
As far as access to the roof rack goes, I have no problem, and I'm only just 5' 9", I generally hop up onto the rear tire or tailgate to get at some parts.
BTW this is on a 2003 Ferd Ranger 4X4 with a mild PO lift (about 2", torqued-up torsion bars up front) and 30" A/T's, with a cab-level camper. I've never once had trouble access stuff up top, even when I was a little shaver!
Before you go retail or Craigslist, eBay, neighbor's, or whatever route you take for the cap - try this little trick. I used to live in VA and there was a used car dealer who sold just Toyota trucks. He didn't like selling them with caps on them (claimed they added no value to the truck) and actually took them off as they came in and placed them on the edge of his property with RIDICULOUS prices on them. I may have found the only person on the planet who does this, but I have to think this is more common that I/we realize. Anyway, I got my cap for my Tacoma for $150. And it looked like brand new. I honestly don't know what brand, because the label was taken off when I acquired it - but it still had the sticky goo above the brake light. Anyway, ramble, but definitely worth investigating if you're lucky enough to find a 2nd hand dealer who deals in Toyota trucks and doesn't like them with caps on them. Good luck!
S
S
I've been running the same cap on mine (forgive me for not knowing brand but I WILL research this) along with a yakima rack which includes the load warrior basket, along with bike mounts. I'll confess to regularly running the rack with two mountain bikes, a kayak, and countless bags of luggage - and I've never had so much as a crack in the cap. I guess it does depend on the manufacturer, but just pointing out that maybe up to now I've been....lucky? Watch me inspect it tonight with a flashlight and make a drastic discovery. Murphy's law! But I think some caps have extra reinforcement built in. This has prompted me to figure out what I have, so I'll post again after I've done my homework.
Confirmed: A.R.E.
Most definitely, on both counts.
I think I also failed to mention that I run the rack full time. I had an amusing incident with it after I first had in installed where I drove through an ATM booth and ripped the bicycles and load warrior right off the truck. Again, no issues with the cap. IMHO, A.R.E is the way to go. Good luck!
I have a Jerico cap on my truck. I got it previously loved so I did not get to choose options but it had what I wanted minus one thing. It came with gullwing side windows and a yakima rack with locks. It was cab height which I prefer. The only thing missing is the sliding fold down cab window that makes cleaning so much easier. The first owner had solid window so found no use but I have a sliding window and it would be nice to run long pipes or such inside. I could add it.
I also got a interior light as part of the package and wired it to the tail light circuit so i would leave it on and drain the battery and it meant not having to run a power wire. But in two years, I have yet to ever use it.
Jerico is in norther Pa. so they may not be too far from you or one of their dealers.
I also got a interior light as part of the package and wired it to the tail light circuit so i would leave it on and drain the battery and it meant not having to run a power wire. But in two years, I have yet to ever use it.
Jerico is in norther Pa. so they may not be too far from you or one of their dealers.
Not to hijack SouthPier's thread but if anyone has suggestions on how to wire lights on a roof rack with a fiberglass cap (along with pics) I could sure use some suggestions. I'm not happy with my current setup, which was basically to drill a hole through my yakima rack plate and then run a long pair of wires through the front sliding windows then down between the bed and the cab up to the engine compartment. Surely there's a cleaner + better way. Thoughts appreciated.
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I have an ARE that is 9yrs old and still looks like new - although I have not put any load on the top.
Cool - hope you're happy with it. Send me a PM if you get any hits on light wiring.