Can light/trim/wattage question

[splitshot]

Halo T housing, Coilex Baffle and Regressed eyeball. The wife just brought home cases of bulbs from a client who is going to LED.
65w BR30 is our norm, some of the these are 75w PAR Halogens, too hot? I remember something about medium base and long neck, what do I have here, and any .02?

 

[splitshot]

Now I need to post a rant.
The ****ing Chinese dimable (flourescent I may add) thread bases will not screw into the sockets. The non-dimable fits fine, but does not dim. Who's great idea was this anyway?

 

[-Spike-]

Now I need to post a rant.
The ****ing Chinese dimable (flourescent I may add) thread bases will not screw into the sockets. The non-dimable fits fine, but does not dim. Who's great idea was this anyway?

Huh? What's different about the bases on the fluorescents?

 

[splitshot]

Huh? What's different about the bases on the fluorescents?

Must be some kind of manufacturing flaw.

 

[D'Animal]

Are the maybe Metric Threads? LOL

We have a hard time with the threads on the lights on our track lighting and can lights.

The thread pitch is fine but the cheap lights seem to have a texture on the threads. It is almost like there is a galvanized over-spray on them. A few minutes with steel wool and they will actually fit.

 

[Bogo]

There is a bulb manufacturer over there that can't seam to follow the specs for the bases. Years ago I had a batch of incandescents that only fit in some sockets and not others.

 

[splitshot]

Are the maybe Metric Threads? LOL

We have a hard time with the threads on the lights on our track lighting and can lights.

The thread pitch is fine but the cheap lights seem to have a texture on the threads. It is almost like there is a galvanized over-spray on them. A few minutes with steel wool and they will actually fit.

There is a bulb manufacturer over there that can't seam to follow the specs for the bases. Years ago I had a batch of incandescents that only fit in some sockets and not others.

Exactly, I'll break out the reading glasses and try the steel wool and on a socket that doesn't require a ladder.

Back on the OP, I am staying away from the 75w Halogens intil someone can give me an ok that it won't burn the house down.

 

[toy4xfun]

Exactly, I'll break out the reading glasses and try the steel wool and on a socket that doesn't require a ladder.

Back on the OP, I am staying away from the 75w Halogens intil someone can give me an ok that it won't burn the house down.

well what does your can say is the max bulb it will take?

and in the pic you have two type a base bulbs.

 

[splitshot]

well what does your can say is the max bulb it will take?

and in the pic you have two type a base bulbs.

Must have failed in the original post. Can is rated for these, trim not sure of, and remember something about trim options w/Halogens..

 

[-Spike-]

Yeah, the base will fit, and the wattage is good, but I'm not sure if halogen bulbs put out more heat/watt than incandescents. Also, the increased size may interfere with the trim and/or overheat it due to proximity. Besides, you should be putting CFL's in everything!

 

[Bogo]

Back on the OP, I am staying away from the 75w Halogens intil someone can give me an ok that it won't burn the house down.

A 75 Watt halogen won't put out any more heat than a 75 Watt regular incandescent. In fact it will put out a bit less as more of the energy that goes into it goes into light production.

 

[porten1134]

most recessed cans have a thermocoupling in 'em to keep stuff from getting too hot. even older ones. also, inside the cowling that the lamp is there should be a sticker, lable, etc. on that lable it should tell you what lamp/trim configuration it's set up to handle. most of the time painters have sprayed it over pretty good. might have to look in a couple of cans or get a model # and check a new one out at the store.

cans are fickle about the lamps you use though. you can stick 65 watt br 30's in without a problem but a 60 watt a-19( your standard incandesecent ) most will trip a thermocoupling.go figure.

 

[toy4xfun]

i went with something like this, two in my covered deck and two in the kitchen.

6 in. White Gimbal LED Trim (T75)-CER672WH at The Home Depot

i could have gotten away with just one on my deck though.

 

[splitshot]

Nice, do they screw into a std socket?

 

[toy4xfun]

they have different styles, one screws in and you need to adjust your socket up or down so the trim will be tight to your ceiling, the other one has a crew socket with wires and plug and it has springs that uses the same system that the trim uses to stay tight.

 

[hammer1]

A 75 Watt halogen won't put out any more heat than a 75 Watt regular incandescent. In fact it will put out a bit less as more of the energy that goes into it goes into light production.

No way. A halogen PAR lamp puts out way more heat directed down than a normal BR or R lamp. The filiment burns hotter, and the goal of this design is to put more light directed out.
I had nine 90 watt pars in my kitchen. Besides everyone leaving them on all the time, you couldnt even stand under them.
they make some nice LED BR and R lamps. DONT buy the home despot ones, buy them from a supply house. They should fit in the Halo fixtures/trims.

 

[Bogo]

No way. A halogen PAR lamp puts out way more heat directed down than a normal BR or R lamp. The filiment burns hotter, and the goal of this design is to put more light directed out.
I had nine 90 watt pars in my kitchen. Besides everyone leaving them on all the time, you couldnt even stand under them.
they make some nice LED BR and R lamps. DONT buy the home despot ones, buy them from a supply house. They should fit in the Halo fixtures/trims.

Just because the reflector in the lamp reflects more radiant heat in one direction, that doesn't mean that the bulb puts out more heat.

If both bulbs are 75 Watts. Halogen bulbs are a bit more efficient at turning energy into light than incandescent bulbs. So, less energy is available for turning into heat. So, where is the extra heat energy coming from?

https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Electric_light

 

[toy4xfun]

No way. A halogen PAR lamp puts out way more heat directed down than a normal BR or R lamp. The filiment burns hotter, and the goal of this design is to put more light directed out.
I had nine 90 watt pars in my kitchen. Besides everyone leaving them on all the time, you couldnt even stand under them.
they make some nice LED BR and R lamps. DONT buy the home despot ones, buy them from a supply house. They should fit in the Halo fixtures/trims.

the ones i have are from home depot, and the first set on my back deck fits in a halo can using the side springs, at a loss for a better word, the two in my kitchen, are not halo cans, so i had to use something different!

 

[rdsk8ter]

most can light are rated for the 65w br30 or a 75w halogen as stated you probably have a thermo-couple any who. Also the halogens are smaller diameter so they do not pass heat as easy into the can I know they run hotter but they also have the heating coat on them (the silver paint on the sides) witch helps deflect the heat. If they were mine I would throw them in. just my .02 (I'm a master electrician)

 

[splitshot]

most can light are rated for the 65w br30 or a 75w halogen as stated you probably have a thermo-couple any who. Also the halogens are smaller diameter so they do not pass heat as easy into the can I know they run hotter but they also have the heating coat on them (the silver paint on the sides) witch helps deflect the heat. If they were mine I would throw them in. just my .02 (I'm a master electrician)

Thanks, love the light they put out.
Ultimately would like to go LED, but at $40 a pop and 34 sockets to fill (although rated at a 22 year life), do the math, not cost effective in the short term, or even the long term, IMO..
How long do we have to stock up on incandescents?