Cam Tower oil leak (1 Viewer)

[mreedbmwm3]

When I bought my 2008 Land Cruiser in July of 2015 I found out it had a very small oil leak coming from the Cam Tower. The leak was on the passengers side. You could see it from the wheel well.
The mechanic at the time told me it wasn't anything to worry about and said he would just drive with it seeping, he did say it would get worse.
Today I picked up my LC from the Toyota dealership after having the OME suspension installed. I took it to the Lexus dealership to have all of the grease zerks related to the drive-shaft, etc. greased. I did this as they quoted me 1/2 an hour labor Vs. Toyota dealership wanting to charge more. I think in Tulsa Lexus has a better understanding of LX than Toyota does of the LC.
While there they told me that the drivers side valve cover was starting to leak pretty good and noticed that the passengers side had a leak as well.
After a long talk they quoted me doing both Cam Towers and valve cover gaskets. They did not have it in their system to quote, evidently it is not common. Their Tech used to work for Toyota and he quoted $1850.00 plus parts. I showed them an email quote from Toyota for $1650.00 total and they are matching it. I'm a little bummed, but accepting it. My other Toyota's with he 4.7 couldn't have this problem, they had Valve Covers, Head, HG and bottom end. Not a fan of this new technology. I have put 32,000 miles on the truck for a total of 152,000 miles. I still believe this will be a very good vehicle in the long run, just a little disappointed today.
They suggested a transmission flush, would you guys get one at 152,000 miles? My transmission shifts great.
I had the 4x4 service performed by Toyota.
Has anyone else experienced the Cam Tower Leak?

 

[CLHickman]

**DISCLAIMER*** I have not had the cam tower issues you're describing. I'd lean heavily on those that are 150K or higher in mileage to chime in.

I'm not sure how much you would like to wrench on this vs. having the dealer do the heavy lifting. I think changing the seals/gaskets would be a PITA, it is not hard though.

As far as greasing the driveshaft zerk fittings, well, that should take you no more than 5 minutes total with 2-4 pumps per fitting. You may need to backup the truck to get the fittings to face down. Grease gun and tube of grease should run you no more than $30 and last you a very long time.

If the dealership cannot show you through service records that the fluid was changed I'd recommend you change it. Though I've heard the exact opposite from around the water cooler. I believe the Toyota/LX interval is every 60k to CHANGE the fluid. A flush would be 2 full fluid exchanges and a replacement, someone correct me if I' me wrong.

 

[mreedbmwm3]

**DISCLAIMER*** I have not had the cam tower issues you're describing. I'd lean heavily on those that are 150K or higher in mileage to chime in.

I'm not sure how much you would like to wrench on this vs. having the dealer do the heavy lifting. I think changing the seals/gaskets would be a PITA, it is not hard though.

As far as greasing the driveshaft zerk fittings, well, that should take you no more than 5 minutes total with 2-4 pumps per fitting. You may need to backup the truck to get the fittings to face down. Grease gun and tube of grease should run you no more than $30 and last you a very long time.

If the dealership cannot show you through service records that the fluid was changed I'd recommend you change it. Though I've heard the exact opposite from around the water cooler. I believe the Toyota/LX interval is every 60k to CHANGE the fluid. A flush would be 2 full fluid exchanges and a replacement, someone correct me if I' me wrong.

Thanks, I do not want to do any heavy lifting!

 

[Lono]

VCG replacement on the 5.7 is referenced with some regularity on the Tundra forums. Apparently the trouble is getting access to the valve covers (lots of labor involved) but the actual repair is simple and doesn't foreshadow any other problems with the engine. This is somewhat reassuring after every seal on my last BMW started going bad at 70k...total nightmare.

 

[TJsTACOMA]

Cam towers leaking is common on the 5.7 engines

 

[Willy beamin]

IF you have the dealership do this labor - whats your thought on having the starter placed at the same time - I know its expensive but while they have the truck in the shop it may be worth knocking out. Just something to ponder - sorry to hear about your leaks

 

[Like2Detail]

Cam towers leaking is common on the 5.7 engines

Ugh, I had a 12 Limited Sequoia that had this leak on the drivers side with only 12k miles. It was taken care of under warranty but still annoying. I had hoped that this couldn't be a possibility on my 15 200 since they are Japanese production.

 

[TexAZ]

If you haven't already, go to the Toyota website and create an account. Enter your VIN and get the maintenance history of the truck.
Check for waterpump, starter, and radiator replacement...those are the high mileage quitters.
The starter is a pain in the @$$, its expensive unless they are already in there, the exhaust manifold has to come off.
check the thread on cracking radiators. look at the top of the radiator to see if there are signs of cracking at the boss on the passenger side.
the radiator is only 300, and again, if they are in there with the fluids drained, have the radiator replaced. The 11' and newer radiator supersedes the 08-11. hopefully they redesigned the boss on it!

Sorry to hear you are having problems, but they are minor compared to what you have to do to many other brands to even get to 150K miles.

 

[CLHickman]

TexAZ has got a good plan. Getting to that area is already a PITA and if they're in there, you might as well take the hit to swap out known items to file around your mileage. Just know you'd pretty much be setting yourself up for another 150K miles...

 

[mreedbmwm3]

If you haven't already, go to the Toyota website and create an account. Enter your VIN and get the maintenance history of the truck.
Check for waterpump, starter, and radiator replacement...those are the high mileage quitters.
The starter is a pain in the @$$, its expensive unless they are already in there, the exhaust manifold has to come off.
check the thread on cracking radiators. look at the top of the radiator to see if there are signs of cracking at the boss on the passenger side.
the radiator is only 300, and again, if they are in there with the fluids drained, have the radiator replaced. The 11' and newer radiator supersedes the 08-11. hopefully they redesigned the boss on it!

Sorry to hear you are having problems, but they are minor compared to what you have to do to many other brands to even get to 150K miles.

Thanks, I have had the radiator replaced as it cracked. I just emailed my service advisor and he responded! He said that when he left tonight the tech still had it apart and was going to put it back together in the morning. Hopefully they have it in stock and he hasn't buttoned up too much.
Cheers.

 

[mreedbmwm3]

Just received this email from my advisor at Lexus:

Good morning! We do keep the pump in stock. The full job runs $1063.63 when done as a stand alone repair. However, based on the work that has already been started your cost to add this would be $300 saving you $763.63 on labor. Just let me know if you would like to add this to the repair order and I will get it done.

Thanks again for the input guys, I'm going to go ahead and get it done!
Cheers

 

[Willy beamin]

man that is great news for you - congrats!

 

[CLHickman]

This is an awesome community!!

 

[Markuson]

Just received this email from my advisor at Lexus:

Good morning! We do keep the pump in stock. The full job runs $1063.63 when done as a stand alone repair. However, based on the work that has already been started your cost to add this would be $300 saving you $763.63 on labor. Just let me know if you would like to add this to the repair order and I will get it done.

Thanks again for the input guys, I'm going to go ahead and get it done!
Cheers

There ya go!

 

[mooseknuckles]

Has anyone else experienced the Cam Tower Leak?

+1. Dealer discovered it at my 30k service. Master Tech took photos and sent to Toyota for warranty claim and it was approved for repair.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I just got done sealing mine up and also the timing chain cover. I used to be a tech, and was talking to some old friends about it who are still working at a Toyota, one of them said that Toyota found the issue why cam towers were leaking.

It happened at the factory, and somehow a very thin oil got on the components, think 10 weight thin, like wd-40 from a rag thin. That was enough to not let the RTV get a good adhesion.

But if anyone is looking a cam towers for leaks, also check the timing chain cover, just to make sure, especially if it is under warranty.

I read that someone mentioned valve cover gaskets, to be honest with a Haynes manual for a tundra, good set of tools and a torque wrench, and some common sense, you can switch those out in a few hours.

And for transmission fluid. Toyota WS on the bottle says it lasts 60,000 miles under severe service. Since everyone drives under severe service conditions, I would exchange it. It's pretty easy, and can be done in a garage. Don't let Toyota make you think these trannys are some complicated monster. Its the same old transmission design as always just without a dip stick, and that requires the fluid level to be checked between 106-115 degrees at the pan (not at the torque converter).

 

[teambell]

IDon't let Toyota make you think these trannys are some complicated monster. Its the same old transmission design as always just without a dip stick, and that requires the fluid level to be checked between 112-116 degrees at the pan (not at the torque converter).

Thats good info about the leaks. I thought there was some sort of Techstream programming or even a mechanical action that had to be taken to release and change the tranny fluid, that it potentially had multiple chambers that might prevent either a full fluid drain or issues could arise if you were to fill it without being able to "open" the mechanical action. << I know I am not using the correct terms, just trying to express the concept about what I read in a different thread.

 

[gaijin]

Thats good info about the leaks. I thought there was some sort of Techstream programming or even a mechanical action that had to be taken to release and change the tranny fluid, that it potentially had multiple chambers that might prevent either a full fluid drain or issues could arise if you were to fill it without being able to "open" the mechanical action. << I know I am not using the correct terms, just trying to express the concept about what I read in a different thread.

And you would be correct.

HTH

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Thats good info about the leaks. I thought there was some sort of Techstream programming or even a mechanical action that had to be taken to release and change the tranny fluid, that it potentially had multiple chambers that might prevent either a full fluid drain or issues could arise if you were to fill it without being able to "open" the mechanical action. << I know I am not using the correct terms, just trying to express the concept about what I read in a different thread.

No tech stream or electronic means needed. Do need to block the oil cooler bypass on the passenger side of the bell housing, its a button with a machined hole that an hex key works well to hold, but like I said that's not new technology, my brothers '03 tacoma is the same way. Ultimately, you just need to pop a return line from the radiator off (the first cooler the 200 has) and block the hose because fluid will come out. Add a clear hose the the radiator tranny line or return barb, and run it into an empty bottle with a measuring window. Turn the truck on by use of a friend, and when the fluid pumping out almost gets to 2 quarts, turn the truck off, and add 2 quarts to the tranny pan. Do that until the fluid in the clear tube comes out cherry red. I like to add just a half quart extra.

Use the manual under "don't have an intelligent tester"
GSIC - Global Service Information Center

That lets you know when the fluid is at operating temp to get the level perfect. Is everyone going to go do this on their own, no, and I get that, but I wanted to more or less tell how easy it is, so that when you are talking to a Toyota tech that says it can't be done, or is going to cost you hundreds of dollars (don't get me wrong it will be about $130 just for fluid) you can call BS and not get ripped off. If a Toyota quotes you $200, i'd take that.

 

[linuxgod]

+1 @Taco2Cruiser

My local Toyota dealer did a full 12 quart AT fluid flush for $126.60 plus the cost of fluid. I brought my own. Amsoil Signature was about $120 for 3 gallons. I highly recommend doing a full fluid swap - just changing out what's in the pan only gets maybe 25% of the fluid out, which hardly seems worth it unless you do it every 15k IMO.