Would it be better to buy a cheap busted up FJ and fix it up, or get one in decent condition and only a couple minor repairs?
Buying a busted FJ
- Thread starter josh brown
- Start date
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Are you referring to the FJ40? I would go on the cheaper route, but there is a point where to much rust or damage it would take to much to fix. Frame rust would be my biggest concern then the body. And you would have to decide if your willing to buy a new body and put it on if the body is shot. There is a FJ40 buyers guide in the FAQ made up by Trollhole.
FJ could mean FJ cruiser, FJ80, FJ62, FJ60, FJ55, FJ45, FJ40, FJ25 and more
FJ could mean FJ cruiser, FJ80, FJ62, FJ60, FJ55, FJ45, FJ40, FJ25 and more
Depends on your ability to wrench and what you want the truck for. A lot of guys around here wrench and weld for a living or have a lot of experience at it and, if you are one of them, a beater can be a fun project, as long as the rust isn't terminal. I'm not in that category, although I aspire to be, so, for me, it was better to buy a pretty solid cruiser right off the start.
If you want a DD, first off think if you really want to deal with an FJ40 DD (I do, and I love it, but the commute is a labor of love) you'll probably want a nicer truck. If you want it as a trail rig, a beater with a solid frame might be the right option, again, depending on your ability to wrench.
Given how much gas has driven prices for cruisers down in the last year, you should be able to find something for a decent price. Which is good, 'cause you'll need as much money for gas as you can scrounge.
Cheers,
prat
If you want a DD, first off think if you really want to deal with an FJ40 DD (I do, and I love it, but the commute is a labor of love) you'll probably want a nicer truck. If you want it as a trail rig, a beater with a solid frame might be the right option, again, depending on your ability to wrench.
Given how much gas has driven prices for cruisers down in the last year, you should be able to find something for a decent price. Which is good, 'cause you'll need as much money for gas as you can scrounge.
Cheers,
prat
Just take a minute to add up what parts cast, and you'll see that it would be cheaper to spend a little more now, and get yourself a "decent" not a perfect rig, but one that you can drive safely, and enjoy as soon as you get it.
- Thread starter
- #5
OK, I am looking at th 10k range (for an FJ40) would that be a decent running car?
You should be able to find a very nice 40 in that price range, especially in today's market.
- Thread starter
- #7
I know I need to get an FJ40 with as little rust as possible. I also know I want an fj made after 77'. Is there anything else that I should look for in an FJ40?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
$10k should get you a very decent FJ40. I'd look for the best I could find around $5k so you have some reserve cash for repairs and fuel.
What is it you want to do in this FJ40? If you want to do a lot of offroad, you don't need a super nice truck, since it's just a starting point and you'll modify it a lot. It's very important to decide what you want to do before you buy. For instance, if you are not going to play in the big rocks, you don't need a spring over. If you want a Saturday driver/feel good vehicle, then you want a solid truck with a nice body and paint.
I'd look for a running truck, original drivetrain, and no rust. Let me repeat--NO RUST. Do not buy the first one you look at.
A rusty truck, no matter how "solid" is painful to work on. Every fastener will be frozen in place and break off when you try and mess with it. Rust is also extremely expensive to fix, even "minor" rust. If the ad says something like "a few spots of minor rust" or "frame is rusty but solid" then run away. There is no minor rust on a Cruiser.
If smog testing is required where you live-have the owner get it smogged BEFORE you buy it. That would be pretty much non-negotiable for me.
Why after '77?
What is it you want to do in this FJ40? If you want to do a lot of offroad, you don't need a super nice truck, since it's just a starting point and you'll modify it a lot. It's very important to decide what you want to do before you buy. For instance, if you are not going to play in the big rocks, you don't need a spring over. If you want a Saturday driver/feel good vehicle, then you want a solid truck with a nice body and paint.
I'd look for a running truck, original drivetrain, and no rust. Let me repeat--NO RUST. Do not buy the first one you look at.
A rusty truck, no matter how "solid" is painful to work on. Every fastener will be frozen in place and break off when you try and mess with it. Rust is also extremely expensive to fix, even "minor" rust. If the ad says something like "a few spots of minor rust" or "frame is rusty but solid" then run away. There is no minor rust on a Cruiser.
If smog testing is required where you live-have the owner get it smogged BEFORE you buy it. That would be pretty much non-negotiable for me.
Why after '77?
- Thread starter
- #9
I just want it equipped with power steering and Ive heard that the majority of people like th models after 77'. Its going to be my first car so I'll be driving it as my main car, but if I need to fix something
I can just drive my parents.
I can just drive my parents.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I personally think the models with a 2F and a 4 speed are the desirable ones. So that's 75 and later. Disc brakes are desirable and they started in 76. It's extremely easy to retrofit, though. The very best ones are the 81-83 with the "splitcase" transfer case. They are rare and hard to find. They are also said to be more prone to rust. I don't know if that's true, since they are all prone to rust.
Factory power steering was only available after 79 in a few of the available trucks. Most power steering will be conversions-that's ok since the Saginaw conversion is tried and true. Just make sure it's done well as there are plenty of hack jobs out there.
In California the smog issue is HUGE. For me a 1975 would be by far the most desirable year as it is smog exempt and has a 2F.
Good luck, and don't buy the first one you see, and don't buy a highly modified Cruiser.
I'm getting the feeling you are a bit over-eager. That's OK, but watch out or you'll buy the wrong Cruiser. You want to be selective. Have you read through the FAQs yet? Poser did a really good job with those, and there is tons of useful info there that I wish I had known in 2000 when I got my FJ40.
One last thing--I just got my son (17) his own "FJ". It's not an FJ40. Give that some thought if your circumstances sound similar.
Factory power steering was only available after 79 in a few of the available trucks. Most power steering will be conversions-that's ok since the Saginaw conversion is tried and true. Just make sure it's done well as there are plenty of hack jobs out there.
In California the smog issue is HUGE. For me a 1975 would be by far the most desirable year as it is smog exempt and has a 2F.
Good luck, and don't buy the first one you see, and don't buy a highly modified Cruiser.
I'm getting the feeling you are a bit over-eager. That's OK, but watch out or you'll buy the wrong Cruiser. You want to be selective. Have you read through the FAQs yet? Poser did a really good job with those, and there is tons of useful info there that I wish I had known in 2000 when I got my FJ40.
One last thing--I just got my son (17) his own "FJ". It's not an FJ40. Give that some thought if your circumstances sound similar.
- Thread starter
- #11
Ive read the entire thing (FAQ). I cant get a car until next summer, so I'll be doing a lot of research. I heard that the early 70s models were more rust resistent. If I found a rust free early 70s model would it be hard to add disc brakes and poweer steering?
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks for your advice.
check and see if there are any cruiser clubs in your area maybe sit in on a meeting.
