this has been done many times before by many members, I feel like I'm not adding much to the conversation or technique. I did a lot of research and I have a lot of people to thank for every technique employed.
highlights are:
cuts were made with an oscillating saw (Makita multi tool). this does melt the plastic, but it allows you to cut very slowly and with a high degree of control. I did use ear plugs.
the broad cuts were made 8.5 inches from the body line that goes all around the bumper (thanks to a GXOR member). this has to be measured and remeasured many times. marked in tape. the tape had to be adjusted to keep it taught on various iterations of laying it down. the rounding corners of the bumper are tough to keep "straight" because there's an inward slope to the bumper around those parts. the tape will naturally catch on the top edge and then bunch on the bottoms edge (the bottom edge being the line that will be cut. I just added more tape over it until it was straight over the bunching. this was sufficient to make a reference for a straight cut.
the high tuck hitch has to be cut 1" at least, to not interfere with the spare tire area. this information is also thanks to a member of GXOR.
the notch for the high tuck hitch is exactly 3.5" measured with a speed square sitting on the top of the bumper. obviously you'll have to hold things steady and follow the contours.
the high tuck hitch has a triangulation weld that extends toward the rear of the bumper. this notch is just enough to cover that triangulation weld and have the hitch support the bumper.
also decided to make mini mudflaps out of the old mudguards. have no idea how effective these will be, just wanted to have a little fun.
the small piece of mudflap that shows on the body side does help to blend the line on the bumper. this was measured with the rest of the bumper. had to use 3m body tape to ensure it stayed laid down, since so much of its support had been cut away.
installation of the high tuck and uninstall of the factory hitch was made easier (no bumper removal necessary) with the bumper chop. the top two bolts of the factory hitch bracket are accessible by pulling the bumper out a little. a wrench can fit no problem, but the bolt is so long a little pull has to be performed to take the bolt out. best to have a ratcheting box end.
final tip, sanding. this is essential for a clean look. I used 80 grit and it made quick work to knock down the harsh melted and cut edges left from the saw. just a few passes of 80 grit with a sanding sponge as a backer. this also allowed me to make some fine adjustments while viewing the body lines longitudinally.
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