Bump Stops? (1 Viewer)

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They'll be alright for now, if I don't like them, I'll put the ATs back on it.
Solid axles aren't a down-travel concern, it's the front IFS. 2.5" isn't too crazy.

However, 35 PSI on an E rated tire will still ride like s***. Been there done that. I'd take those back if you can. Mud tires suck in anything other than mud anyway.
I've found the MTs are best for rock crawling. They're going on and I'll report back.
 
Hopefully it's adjustable. Any lift over 2" will be tipsy and perform like s*** off-road due to lack of down-travel or "droop".
I'm up nearly 3" in the front and have about 2" of droop. It rides/performs great off road, and, to be honest, significantly better than SFA Jeep in 98% of conditions. The Jeep can only trip up the GX in diagonal up/down ruts and more hardcore rock crawling where the extra flex and droop really matters. On everything else, my GX is significantly faster than a SFA rig and more comfortable.

But, to your point, I'd certainly appreciate and extra inch or two of droop in the front via something like a RCLT kit.
 
If you remove the front sway bar, get extended front shocks like most aftermarket shocks are (like my 6112s), long travel rear shocks/springs, and replace the rear sway bar with a HD one…you get better articulation than stock at 2.5” lift upfront and 2.75” lift in rear.

I was able to clear 12” ramps in cross corners to get me the same cross travel index that Kai showed in his Tinkerers Adventure video with his FJC

This is without a long travel front…and the cost to do this is reasonable
 
If you remove the front sway bar, get extended front shocks like most aftermarket shocks are (like my 6112s), long travel rear shocks/springs, and replace the rear sway bar with a HD one…you get better articulation than stock at 2.5” lift upfront and 2.75” lift in rear.

I was able to clear 12” ramps in cross corners to get me the same cross travel index that Kai showed in his Tinkerers Adventure video with his FJC

This is without a long travel front…and the cost to do this is reasonable

This seems reasonable for a trail rig but removing your front swaybar is a dangerous compromise at highway speeds, especially in the mountains. Also I'm curious how well your front CV axles are holding up with the added angle?
 
This seems reasonable for a trail rig but removing your front swaybar is a dangerous compromise at highway speeds, especially in the mountains. Also I'm curious how well your front CV axles are holding up with the added angle?
The counterintuitive part is that the HD rear sway bar actually transfers forces to the front to make the front more stable/planted.

I initially drove without a front sway bar and with stock rear sway bar for two months. It was pretty sketchy on curves and turns.

I replaced the rear sway bar with the Nolathane 24mm HD sway bar and I couldn’t believe the difference.

It felt as if I had my front sway bar on…well about 80% of it. It made a big difference and I’ve been off-roading and driving the highways and mountain roads as if I had front sway bars.

In terms of the CV axles, I started with a 2.5” front lift when I got the rig back in 2017. I lowered it to 2.25” in 2022 when I replaced the front coilovers to new 700 lbf/in bilstein 6112s in 2023…and back to 2.5” in 2024 when I got a front bumper and upped the circlips.

Same cv axles as the ones that came with the GX470 when I bought it in 2017. I’ve put 55k miles so far since I bought it.

I have reman Toyota cv axles in storage, but my current cv axles were rebooted back in 2014 by PO and I believe they are original.

So, my cv axles have been on a 2.5” lift for like 7 years and no issue. I’m only on 33s.

So, I’m not sure if the HD coilovers in the front and the HD sway bar in rear help the cv axles, but I haven’t had a problem in 8 years of ownership. Just my situation.

Oh…and to tie it back to the OP…I’m running Durobumps in the front and Timbren in the rear. Got them before they got crazy pricey.
 
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