Broken BVSV valve

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sj

Joined
May 8, 2003
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106
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Location
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I replaced my P/S pump yesterday and in the process broke the two vacuume lines that are attached to the BVSV valve that go into the Thermostate housing.

I am going to order a new but in the time being can I drive my 60?

There are two different valves going into the housing, should I replace the other one at the same time?

Sean
 
if you search you'll find I had the same prob.
You'll be fine i drove with mine broke for 3 or 4 months.
Little part costs a bundle.
I think alot of people live without.

good luck
p
 
I believe the top one routes fumes from the charcoal canister to the engine, when the engine is warm. Just plug the hard lines (loop the rubber hose from one hard line to the other) and you will be fine.
 
I have been going throug emissions hell and recently had the 2 BVSV valves that were broken off replaced in an attempt to help out. Before replacement, when I bought the truck the vacumn hoses were just hanging there open to the air, but the truck ran well. Now after replacing the valves it runs worse!! and I actually did worse on a retry on the emissions. I will probably unplug them soon and see what happens!!
 
Did the exact same thing to my 60 in an attempt to get it to pass smog. Used poor mans glue (aka jbweld) put it back together. Drove my rig to and from work for a couple of days before I was able to put everything back together. Took it to the Man and it passed fine. You should be good.
 
I just had this happen when replacing all my mini vacuum lines...and I was so careful! :doh: All was well, and I was on literally my last one when I noticed one of the nipples was broken of one BVSV...(the one on the bottom of the thermostat water housing)- and in getting it off to "fix" it, broke off the other one. I did a loop back with a 3" piece of hose that now bypasses the valve and the truck is running fine. (or at least no worse...) I'll be sourcing a new valve, but at $40--it's hard to justify when the truck runs... Now that all the vacuum is more or less right, I think I need to readjust the timing...:rolleyes:
 
i did the same thing, working on something else and broke the top BVSV. $48 from my toyota dealer. seems to run fine.

so what you're saying is i can take a regular hose coupler (for fish tank tubing) from the hardware store and connect the hose leaving the BVSV out of it, accomplishing the same thing?
 
basically (and you long time cruisergeeks correct me if i'm wrong) the bvsv only adjusts flow through the valve based on temperature as measured on the brass part of the valve the runs into the thermostat housing. I didn't use a coupler, I just looped back the hose that went from the "in" to the "out" and skipped the valve altogether, since both nipples were now broken off. (a little longer piece that what would have gone to the valve.) I *believe* by running with no resistance (an open tube) I have essentially bypassed a cold temp restriction. ie. it always works like it is "hot." just my $.02 but it works...
 

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