Builds Bring back my Dads FJ40 (2 Viewers)

[RJC1980FJ40]

are you planning to replace that rear shackle hanger or at least the triangle mounting plate? Mine was in similar shape. There are repro parts available.

Yea, I’m planning on new shackle hangers and new u-bolt plates. They are both in pretty bad shape. Took me 3 hours yesterday just to get the pins, shackles and bushings out of the rear. I have all new poly bushings, leafs springs, shackles and ubolts ready. Wasn’t planning on new hangers and plates, but that’s been the story of this thing.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Yea, I’m planning on new shackle hangers and new u-bolt plates. They are both in pretty bad shape. Took me 3 hours yesterday just to get the pins, shackles and bushings out of the rear. I have all new poly bushings, leafs springs, shackles and ubolts ready. Wasn’t planning on new hangers and plates, but that’s been the story of this thing.

I hear ya, I bought my '79 40 to have as a driver while I worked on a 45 troopie. Turns out it needed nearly as much work as the troopie. You're getting there, keep up the great work!

 

[RUSH55]

Great project! Cool to see you kids in there getting dirty They’ll remember this stuff for the rest of their lives.

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

Great project! Cool to see you kids in there getting dirty They’ll remember this stuff for the rest of their lives.

It’s been great having them help. This is the truck I learned how to drive a stick with, so my 15 yo is super excited to do the same.

 

[dad4x4]

Just saw this update. It’s coming along.
Progress is moving forward and moving forward is getting closer to finishing it.
loving the father/son project.

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

Well...... I went deep today. Over this past week I spent a lot of time working on removing and restoring/refinishing items. One thing that kept happening was almost everything was falling apart from rust while I was trying to. I soaked bolts and the body mounts in PB for a week and when I slightly went to loosen it the whole bottom of the perch twisted and broke apart. I also found a few spots that had metal plates sandwiched between fiberglass. Long story short it’s 3/4 tub time. This project is absolutely killing me, but I’m in now! I’m going to try to get the rest of the tub off tomorrow. I’m leaving the cowl, because somehow it’s in great shape comparatively. Then going to get the frame done and painted and some other bits now that I have room. Now for the questions:
1. Aluminum or steel tub? I know it’s a loaded question, but I’m on the fence leaning towards aluminum from aqualu. I haven’t seen a bad review yet, and I did see one in person a few years back. Land cruiser heaven seems to have the best price on steel, but I have heard some stories about fitment, shipped condition, and wait times. I can’t afford a new one from Classic Cruisers or HFS ones.
2. If I go aluminum does anybody have one I could check out? Did you have any issues? Fitment, hard top, does it have mounts for gas tank, heat shields and such?
3. Is there another option I’m missing?
Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Also, I’m not looking for resale value or trying to do a stock restoration, so take that into consideration please. I just want to build this and have a bunch of fun with the family.

Thanks, Sean

 

[Bripars40]

Well...... I went deep today. Over this past week I spent a lot of time working on removing and restoring/refinishing items. One thing that kept happening was almost everything was falling apart from rust while I was trying to. I soaked bolts and the body mounts in PB for a week and when I slightly went to loosen it the whole bottom of the perch twisted and broke apart. I also found a few spots that had metal plates sandwiched between fiberglass. Long story short it’s 3/4 tub time. This project is absolutely killing me, but I’m in now! I’m going to try to get the rest of the tub off tomorrow. I’m leaving the cowl, because somehow it’s in great shape comparatively. Then going to get the frame done and painted and some other bits now that I have room. Now for the questions:
1. Aluminum or steel tub? I know it’s a loaded question, but I’m on the fence leaning towards aluminum from aqualu. I haven’t seen a bad review yet, and I did see one in person a few years back. Land cruiser heaven seems to have the best price on steel, but I have heard some stories about fitment, shipped condition, and wait times. I can’t afford a new one from Classic Cruisers or HFS ones.
2. If I go aluminum does anybody have one I could check out? Did you have any issues? Fitment, hard top, does it have mounts for gas tank, heat shields and such?
3. Is there another option I’m missing?
Any and all input is greatly appreciated. Also, I’m not looking for resale value or trying to do a stock restoration, so take that into consideration please. I just want to build this and have a bunch of fun with the family.

Thanks, Sean

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When I have enough money I’m going to go aluminum. In the meantime I spent $500 on steel panels and made my own 3/4 tub out of 1/8 and 3/16” steel.

 

[-MaTTi-]

3. Is there another option I’m missing?

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Also got this for a while ago:

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

Well we’ve taken another turn in the rebuilding process. I was at the point of looking at tubs when I scored a rust free roller of the same year! I actually spent less then a 3/4 tub would have cost and walked away with a complete roller including top and glass. This has also changed my plan to full resto I’m going to take the complete body off mine and clean the frame down and recoat it. Then take all of my good parts and the good new parts and build one great one. Then probably rebuild tranny and tcase while I’m there. Motor only has 70k or so on the rebuild, so I’ll probably just clean and paint a bit. Also, plan was to raptor line the whole thing tinted to match the 653 Olive. Now I’m going to paint the outside. Inner tub will still be lined as it will get lots of people and dog use. Only thing I’m nervous for is I pulled the whole wiring harness out today. This will be my first attempt to build/repair a complete harness.

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

So, the new 40 I got has the shackle reversal done on the front. I’ve never messed with this before. I’ve seen it, but haven’t had one personally. I have a few questions for anybody with knowledge about it.
1. Do I need a new front drive shaft? And if so where would you recommend.
2. I’m guessing I would need a longer relay rod?
3. How does it affect the drivability? Better/worse? Better HW/Off road?
4. Does the front wheel being pushed forward look goofy on a stockish rig?


I’m trying to decide if I’m using new frame or the one I have? Also, as soon as I get the main project done I’m going to build the other as a dedicated off-road rig!

 

[DangerNoodle]

So, the new 40 I got has the shackle reversal done on the front. I’ve never messed with this before. I’ve seen it, but haven’t had one personally. I have a few questions for anybody with knowledge about it.
1. Do I need a new front drive shaft? And if so where would you recommend.
2. I’m guessing I would need a longer relay rod?
3. How does it affect the drivability? Better/worse? Better HW/Off road?
4. Does the front wheel being pushed forward look goofy on a stockish rig?


I’m trying to decide if I’m using new frame or the one I have? Also, as soon as I get the main project done I’m going to build the other as a dedicated off-road rig!

You may need a new front driveshaft. You'll need to measure for it once the tcase is in position. I've heard that Bill's Englewood Driveshaft is good, depending on where you are located in Co. Same goes for the relay rod. You may need to make a new one, but I doubt it. You really should replace the front spring hangers. Those will get eaten by rocks and I've heard stories about those getting ripped apart when wheeling. Go with RuffStuff hangars. The shackle reversal is theoretically supposed to help with the ride quality, allowing the spring to move back and upwards more easily when you hit a bump. It's also used to help reduce bump steer, but that should only really happen if your geometry is really off. The reversal changes your anti-dive number, so the front end will want to dive more when braking. Most people run a reversal to stop springs from bending when wheeling. I don't think they look funny if they have a larger than stock tire, but they do look funny if the tire is really small. It looks like that 40 has a lift.

Anyways, I hope this helps.

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

You may need a new front driveshaft. You'll need to measure for it once the tcase is in position. I've heard that Bill's Englewood Driveshaft is good, depending on where you are located in Co. Same goes for the relay rod. You may need to make a new one, but I doubt it. You really should replace the front spring hangers. Those will get eaten by rocks and I've heard stories about those getting ripped apart when wheeling. Go with RuffStuff hangars. The shackle reversal is theoretically supposed to help with the ride quality, allowing the spring to move back and upwards more easily when you hit a bump. It's also used to help reduce bump steer, but that should only really happen if your geometry is really off. The reversal changes your anti-dive number, so the front end will want to dive more when braking. Most people run a reversal to stop springs from bending when wheeling. I don't think they look funny if they have a larger than stock tire, but they do look funny if the tire is really small. It looks like that 40 has a lift.

Anyways, I hope this helps.

Thanks,
I do believe it’s lifted at least 2” from the shackles and possibly springs as well? I will look into the front hangers. I’m planning on running 31x10.5 on it for a DD. I may keep the frame with the reversal for my off road rig that will run 37s? I’m in Thornton, so I’ll look into bills.

 

[Varty Yo]

Please dont raptor line the entire thing!!!!

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

Please dont raptor line the entire thing!!!!

Not the plan anymore!

 

[-MaTTi-]

So, the new 40 I got has the shackle reversal done on the front.

4. Does the front wheel being pushed forward look goofy on a stockish rig?

Shackle reversal does not mean that the axle position/wheelbase is changed.

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

Down to this! This week will be all about cleaning and painting the frame. Taking off a few things that are no longer needed. New rear bumper/cross member, plates and rear spring perch’s on the way as well. Hopefully I’ll be ready to install when those get here.

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

More done this week. Got the back part of the frame pulled off, wire wheels and primed a little. I’m planning on doing a little part of the frame each day. New metal started to show up, so that’s exciting. Crazy how bad the rear plates and perches where once I got them off.

 

[Curtice]

Awesome thread. I hope in 30 years, my son will post on the forum “reviving my dads 40”.

 

[RJC1980FJ40]

We have movement! I finally got the new rear bumper/frame support in. I mocked up the whole rear including new perches, hangers and angle supports. Hopefully by weeks end I’ll have fitment right and be able to bolt and weld it into place. After that suspension, axles, brakes and wheels/tires are done and waiting for install.

Question: should I just bolt the hangers to the plates, install suspension, axles and wheels and then weld them together? I’m not sure if that would guarantee they are in the right spot or if I should just use my long level to make sure they are plum with the other hanger?

Thanks
Sean

 

[RUSH55]

You’re reusing the OEM hangers? Can’t recall why they were removed...