I didi cut some excess thread off the adjuster, as these will suit larger lift as well.
Brakes in my bj
- Thread starter BJ73QLD
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if you can lock the front, you have more brakes than most.
they lock up real easy when you run a second remote booster through the front brake circuit, got to be careful though its easy to overheat the front brakes with all the extra clamping pressure
MY brakes warn't that bad IMO, but I don't have high expectations as it is an old cruiser.
The additional brake booster is a good idea but no where to fit it with a 13bt without moving heaps of stuff.
My thoughts are make sure the rear is working / adjusted correctly
maybe a calliper upgrade for guys who don't have room to fit a booster. I think I seen a 4 pot option on the forum fairly easy from what I saw. Stainless steel braided lines will also assist with a better feel in the pedal as it stops the lines expanding under high pressure.
I have done a small amount of brake issues on Cruisers while I was on the tools, some can be a pain, I recall bleeding the system 3-4 times to get rid of all the air on one, starting with the longest lines first (passenger side rear) even when you think you have all the air check again.
The additional brake booster is a good idea but no where to fit it with a 13bt without moving heaps of stuff.
My thoughts are make sure the rear is working / adjusted correctly
maybe a calliper upgrade for guys who don't have room to fit a booster. I think I seen a 4 pot option on the forum fairly easy from what I saw. Stainless steel braided lines will also assist with a better feel in the pedal as it stops the lines expanding under high pressure.
I have done a small amount of brake issues on Cruisers while I was on the tools, some can be a pain, I recall bleeding the system 3-4 times to get rid of all the air on one, starting with the longest lines first (passenger side rear) even when you think you have all the air check again.
Sorry I must have been reading about a different model, mine is a 4 pot
you might have been getting mixed up with the early callipers with 2 small and 2 large pistons vs the later callipers with 4 large pistons
So I searched again for the caliper upgrade, from what I can see from a few different threads, is the HZJ calpiers may fit and aparently have a bigger pad or some model 4 runner in the states. Some threads were about the 60 series which I believe have the same brakes.
I used hilux callipers to upgrade to the 4 large pistons, I think I used LN106 or 107 callipers there are quite a few different vehicles using that size calliper, the pads are also slightly larger. You have to trim the backing plates slightly to get the callipers to fit and check the offset on your rims both my trucks have got 10" rims with -44 offset and they fowled on the callipers, one truck I run 10mm spacers and the other one I ground back the cooling fins on the calliper to get enough clearance. In my case I didn't really find the upgrade improved the braking it was installing second boosters that made a noticeable difference.
Correct, I use HZJ75 calipers, larger pistons and slightly larger pads. Recommended to use the matching master cylinder. Biggest difference was upgrading to a dual diaphragm booster from a 80 series, can lock 35''s up on the road.
Thanks guys, HUltsy I did remember you upgraded your booster as there was no replacement for the BJ with 13bt, I didn't remember you had done the calipers as well. Dual diafram booster from an 80, any fittment issues? that sounds better than a second booster for the 13bt guys. The Silver Bullet thread is a long one to search through, well worth the read. Hopefully the new forum search option will help that.
Thanks Hultsy, you had to upgrade the master cylinder to, you had to bore it out is that correct?
Yeah because the 13BT has a unique master cylinder I couldnt just swap it out for the HZJ75 (disc drum) unit, LHD is different I believe. So I bored mine out and fitted the HZJ75 internals to it as they are the same length. Other option is the fit the HZJ75 unit and redo the hard lines, but then the heat shield would not fit and the line would be near the turbo and it would not look right. Only cost ~$90ish to bore it out and I had a spare MC so no issue. Was hard to find someone to bore it out though.
Thanks Hultsy, if I get to do that mod we have a good mastrer cylinder place here in town that will do that sort of work.