Brakes, a few simple questions (1 Viewer)

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I am getting my new to me 1996 FZJ80 sorted. Five new Revos yesterday, smog today, more stuff tomorrow. Right now I have some questions on brakes.

--- I noticed that the rear disks have a lot of dust and a slight 'lip' at the edge from wear by the pads. I am going to replace the pads but I doubt the rotors need changiong out yet. Are there any favorite makes of pads that will perform especially well? I am normally an OEM parts advocate, but interested in an optimal solution.

--- I also noticed that the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve sensor arm did not get re-adjusted after the OME springs were installed. I am going to crank the stop up, so that braking is more nearly normal. Any gotchas waiting for me on this (one banana) job?

--- In general, are there any HD calipers that will help braking that could fit where the OEM gear is? Are slotted or 'special' rotors of any use? Worth the money?

Thanks for your help. Maybe one day I can begin contributing here on the 80 section, but right now I'm a noob.

M - former 40 and 60 owner/driver
 
Mike,

There are a lot of good threads on the 80series list, just search for "brakes". Typically you will find that most of us are not 100% happy with the oem brake set-up. I too would be interested in a beefier caliper that will fit without modifications. I stick with oem pads because they work and are economical. Others have played around with aftermarket pads but I'm not sure if your rotor will like them.

Good luck and be sure to post your findings!
 
Raining out. No truck fun until it stops.

M
 
ed97fzj80 said:
How many miles she have?

110K well maintained miles.
 
Mike S said:
110K well maintained miles.

You shouldn't need new rear rotors yet. Mine lasted 160K and actually still had about 1mm left before minimum specs, but changed anyway.

Rear OEM are fine. Lots of 80's guys will remove the anti-squeal shims up front and use 100 series pads (rotor change at the same time tho!).
 
After you read the 12,347 threads here about brakes you are going to find that a lot guys run all OEM stuff with 100 Series pads on the front in lieu of stock 80 pads. After running every pad brand known to man that's what I am back to for the best price and most longevity.
 
Thanks. I have read a lot of the threads. I will take your advice on the OEM stuff, and see how the 100 series pads will work on the front when I get to that part.

M
 
You shouldn't need new rear rotors yet. Mine lasted 160K and actually still had about 1mm left before minimum specs, but changed anyway.

You might check them reguardless, mine original oem rotors lasted 95k and they were under tolerance when I found out! It really depends how the PO drove it and what kind of traffic you drive it in today. Bay Area traffic is not good on the rotors (or the pads)
 
Pads-Oem rear, OEM 100 series up front. The 100 series pads are much better.

If you have any doubts about the rotors, changing them now will be easy. I assume you'll be servicing the birf and the wheelbearings, so now is the time.

On the LSPV, it is more effective to lower the valve in the bracket about 1/4 inch.

Bleed your brakes really well. I do the LSPV, the rears, LSPV again, then the fronts.
 
Thanks, Andrew.

Yeah, I tink I better look after bearings, birfs, complete lube on all points. May as well do the whole smash.

On the LSPV the mounting bracket has slotted holes, I believe, so I want to move it down to emulate an upward adjustment of the jam nut on the sensor arm, right?

M
 
Mike S said:
On the LSPV the mounting bracket has slotted holes, I believe, so I want to move it down to emulate an upward adjustment of the jam nut on the sensor arm, right?

M

That is correct. Down about 1/4 inch. It would be nice to measure the brake line pressure like the FSM says, but that takes guages most of us don't have.
 

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