Brake Rotors (Turning and other questions)?

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Nov 18, 2003
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In certain circumstances, when I push the brakes on my '04 LC, I get a shimmy. This happens most when I'm moderately slowing down from a pretty high rate of speed. If I'm on the freeway and I use the brakes to slow from 65 MPH to 40 MPH I get a shimmy. If I jam on the brakes for an emergency stop, no shimmy.

In case it matters, the LC is stock except the torsion bars are adjusted to level it out. I had the stinkbug stance pretty bad. There is no diff drop.

I'm thinking of getting my rotors turned to address the problem. The problem is I have lots of pad life left. Is it pointless to turn the rotor without putting in new pads? Also, am I better off putting in a new rotor rather than turning the old one? How much labor time should I expect the shop to charge to turn the rotors?

I'm actually hoping to kill two birds with one stone on this one. I've got a knock that comes when I first hit the brakes (and only when the brakes are warm). I know it's not the common drive line thunk (I've gotten that under control via lubing) and I don't think it's a suspension problem because I don't get the knock going over bumps, etc. Perhaps when they disassemble and re-assemble the brakes they'll find that a vibration damper or shim or something was put previously incorrectly installed and they can correct or mitigate the problem. If anyone has any other suggestions on this, I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance!
 
Getting rotors turned is about $20 a set. When dealing with brakes I prefer to go fresh on everything so I would change out the pads. My strategy has been to replace with new rotors then turn old ones and put on shelf. Next brake job I have a fresh set of rotors ready and swap then repeat.

Your're in for a fair amount of labor in addition as the the front rotors require some hub disassembly. And if you are going to that trouble you should service the bearings... and if you are doing that you should... :D

Also be prepared to replace rotors... I just did a rear brake service and and my driver rotor is so warped it's not serviceable.


I had the knock as well... new sway bar end links took care of that. Knocked only on right turns under deceleration.
 
Thanks Rob. On the knock, I'll look into the sway bar end links. The baffling point is that it only happens when the brakes are warm. I don't know what can explain this.
 
ebod said:
Thanks Rob. On the knock, I'll look into the sway bar end links. The baffling point is that it only happens when the brakes are warm. I don't know what can explain this.

Could be a frozen caliper piston and a pad is knocking.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
 
front rotors are a little labor intensive. rears are easy. however, you would be well served to do them yourself. dealer will crucify you on labor. find a friend who has the mechanical aptitude and get a fsm.
 
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