I sell Centric Premium Rotors. For a good high quality replacement, they hard to beat. Centric owns Stoptech, they know all aspects of brake systems quite well.
brake rotor reccomendation
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Most of the pulsing comes from overheated cheap pads. When they get hot and you stop at a stoplight, the hot pad transfers pad material in one spot on the rotor causing a sticky spot they causes the brakes to grab that spot on each rotation. On rare occasions you might can re bed the pads, otherwise turning the rotors is the quick fix. Without a better pad or a change in driving habits they will get bad again. Go with quality plain rotors and a high quality pad that is designed for higher heat applications and you'll be good.
^ I did this yesterday. It eliminated most of the pulsating. Garnet did the trick.
Pads are important, but good rotors are the first line of defense against overheated pads.
Brakes translate kinetic energy to heat. The more mass a rotor has, the lower the peak temperature that is reached. Essentially the rotor acts as the brake system heat sink. Everytime a rotor is cut, it looses mass, and will inevitably reach a higher peak temperature for an equivalent stopping event. So it's a slippery slope to prolong a rotors life. It will fix the immediate problem of run-out or uneven pad transfer, but will likely result in future issues do to more extreme heat cycling. Drilling and slotting, besides causing stress points, also reduce mass, resulting in higher peak temps.
The next thing that a rotor must do is shed heat. Not necessarily for a single stopping event, but for subsequent stopping events. Internal vain design makes the most difference here. Slotting and cross drilled features do very little.
Pad selection is an exercise in compromises. Yes, you can get higher MOT (maximum operating temperature) pads, but will they have the nice cold bite/friction qualities that a typical street car needs? Then there are the tradeoffs for longevity/dusting/sqeaking/abrasivness/etc. OEM pads typically strike a pretty darn good balance.
So if you want great brake performance, focus on the rotors. Quality and mass!
Brakes translate kinetic energy to heat. The more mass a rotor has, the lower the peak temperature that is reached. Essentially the rotor acts as the brake system heat sink. Everytime a rotor is cut, it looses mass, and will inevitably reach a higher peak temperature for an equivalent stopping event. So it's a slippery slope to prolong a rotors life. It will fix the immediate problem of run-out or uneven pad transfer, but will likely result in future issues do to more extreme heat cycling. Drilling and slotting, besides causing stress points, also reduce mass, resulting in higher peak temps.
The next thing that a rotor must do is shed heat. Not necessarily for a single stopping event, but for subsequent stopping events. Internal vain design makes the most difference here. Slotting and cross drilled features do very little.
Pad selection is an exercise in compromises. Yes, you can get higher MOT (maximum operating temperature) pads, but will they have the nice cold bite/friction qualities that a typical street car needs? Then there are the tradeoffs for longevity/dusting/sqeaking/abrasivness/etc. OEM pads typically strike a pretty darn good balance.
So if you want great brake performance, focus on the rotors. Quality and mass!
OEM.
It's easy to do worse than OEM, but hard or should I say very expensive to do better. If your rotors have some miles, best upgrade is to replace them with new.
Centric premium rotors (not their lower end stuff) are well regarded in the industry if you're looking for 3rd party.
If you like to Tōge downhill with your beast of burden, already have relatively fresh rotors, and you're still eating through stock pads because you're exceeding the MOT, than something like an Hawk HPS pad would be a good alternative. Beyond that, you're going to need some real BBKs.
It's easy to do worse than OEM, but hard or should I say very expensive to do better. If your rotors have some miles, best upgrade is to replace them with new.
Centric premium rotors (not their lower end stuff) are well regarded in the industry if you're looking for 3rd party.
If you like to Tōge downhill with your beast of burden, already have relatively fresh rotors, and you're still eating through stock pads because you're exceeding the MOT, than something like an Hawk HPS pad would be a good alternative. Beyond that, you're going to need some real BBKs.