brake Power

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simple answer is no.

anything better than nominal improvement won't be simple and won't be cheap.

if you upgrade brake cylinders, you need to upgrade rotors, increase bore you need to increase throughput capacity, etc.

probably best to rejuvenate your oem system with fresh oem components.
 
Will the brake master cylinder from a newer FJCruiser work?
 
Down here we run a second remote booster inline on the front brake circuit, don't know about the availability of finding one in your part of the world but we use the Australian PBR VH40 9" remote booster, its transformed my truck from being pretty scary in the braking department to pulling up and stopping like a late model car with very little effort on the brake pedal. The booster cost me about $300-350 USD

booster.webp
 
Upgraded booster and master cylinder make a huge difference. Large diameter master cylinder will make your pedal travel shorter and feel "firmer" but with increased pedal effort. To combat this I fitted a dual diaphragm 80 series booster, now I have heaps of braking power and good initial feel and bite. Cheap too.
 
Upgraded booster and master cylinder make a huge difference. Large diameter master cylinder will make your pedal travel shorter and feel "firmer" but with increased pedal effort. To combat this I fitted a dual diaphragm 80 series booster, now I have heaps of braking power and good initial feel and bite. Cheap too.

what it feels like and what it is might be different.
same contact area, same fluid volume = same potential. it might be easier, harder to push, or feel softer or firmer, change the ratio pedal travel/ fluid pushed, but the dynamics remain the same, unless you've changed something else.
 
Upgraded booster and master cylinder make a huge difference. Large diameter master cylinder will make your pedal travel shorter and feel "firmer" but with increased pedal effort. To combat this I fitted a dual diaphragm 80 series booster, now I have heaps of braking power and good initial feel and bite. Cheap too.

I've done this mod in the past week , as per Hulstys recommendation and it really does make the brakes heaps better! . Way better pedal feel than my other 70 with factory booster , dual diaphragm booster really does make a difference. I can actually lock up my wheels now if I really hit it hard . Before I could not. The only hitch with a 80 booster is you need to add about a 1" extension onto the input shaft ( the one that couples into your brake pedal) But its like a $3 extension and a 5min job to fit , literally.

Recommended from me also!
 
Thats interesting to know re the rod length... I have an 80 series MC and Booster awaiting fitting...
 
Upgraded booster and master cylinder make a huge difference. Large diameter master cylinder will make your pedal travel shorter and feel "firmer" but with increased pedal effort. To combat this I fitted a dual diaphragm 80 series booster, now I have heaps of braking power and good initial feel and bite. Cheap too.

Did you also use the master cylinder from the 80 ? Extention needed ?
 
what it feels like and what it is might be different.
same contact area, same fluid volume = same potential. it might be easier, harder to push, or feel softer or firmer, change the ratio pedal travel/ fluid pushed, but the dynamics remain the same, unless you've changed something else.

Doesn't the booster from the 80 change the dynamics by simply adding more power to your brake ?
 
Did you also use the master cylinder from the 80 ? Extention needed ?

The extension is only used from the pedal to the brake booster. From brake booster to master cylinder no extension is needed. I could not use a 80 master on mine, being a factory turbo RHD the brake lines are in different locations. I think nearly every other model you can swap a 80 master on with no problem. Instead I bored my stock master out to suit a bigger piston.

I think NZCruisers used a 1'' bore 80 series master straight onto his.
 
more STOPPING power requires the contact surface area to be increased, where all other motive forces remain the same.
everything else is semantics.
it can be firmer, softer, shorter throw, less feedback, but in the analysis that matters, no actual improvement can occur.
The best thing you can do is make sure your rotors are true, fluid is clean, and good quality pads.
a spot where you can reduce fade would be to minimize the lengths of flexible lines, but even with fade, pushing the peddle in response to that feedback is how it works, it's a closed system when it's engaged.
 
No, its not just surface area it is pressure. My surface area and rotor diameter is unchanged, but the pressure to the calipers has greatly increased, which means the friction between the pads and disk is much higher and I have more stopping power.

So you think, the same contact area with 1psi line pressure to the calipers gives the same stopping power as 2500psi to the calipers?
 
No, its not just surface area it is pressure. My surface area and rotor diameter is unchanged, but the pressure to the calipers has greatly increased, which means the friction between the pads and disk is much higher and I have more stopping power.

So you think, the same contact area with 1psi line pressure to the calipers gives the same stopping power as 2500psi to the calipers?

What in the world is stopping POWER?
I put varying pressure on the peddle to accomplish stopping. if I want to stop slowly, or quickly, I do it with my foot, more is more, less is less.
 
if you change the bore, you have a shorter stroke.
if you add more assist, you don't have to push as hard.
if you increase line diameter, you can push faster.
But if you don't change contact area, all those new parts just mean you might have a clean tight system, and that is the source of the apparent improvement.
 
Stopping Power is related to stopping time. If it takes 10 seconds to go from 100-0 km/h you have saw 200kw of braking power. If you make some changes and it now takes 7 seconds to go from 100-0 km/h you have more braking power say 300kw. Which is what a larger brake booster allows you to do (other things to but we are talking boosters).

For given constants, the brake pistons, pads, master cylinder bore all remain the same and the pedal load is the same at say 100kg fitting a larger booster allows more force into the master cylinder. Force = Pressure*Area our leg load is the same but the area is say double with a larger brake booster, yielding a higher Force pressing on the master cylinder piston, higher force on the piston means higher pressure in the hydraulic system.

Since the pressure in the hydraulic system is now higher the pistons apply more force to the pads, clamping them down harder on the discs, creating more friction and stopping the vehicle faster, giving more powerful brakes.

Over course you can vary the braking system power by modulating your foot on the pedal, but the maximum system power is now increased for your maximum leg load.
 
I was told that using slotted rotors, stainless steel brake lines and using high quality pads and high quality fluid can increase your braking effeciency but upto 25%.

Recent tests on ESC vehicles have proven even a change from oe pads to after market can affect the braking both good or bad depending on the brand and compound. thats just pad diference.

Stainless lines stop the rubber lines expanding under extreme force to get a better effiency.

You can talk tech all day,but if you have an inefficent pad it doesn;t matter how good your braking system is.
 
you do get more braking ability with upgraded boosters Chester you still have the same pad surface area but you get increased clamping pressure therefore stopping faster and more efficient, its a bit like when you disconnect the vacuum on your booster its just about impossible to stop there's very little clamping force on the pads and yet you still have the same pad surface area it hasn't changed :)
 
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