Brake Controller Wiring (1 Viewer)

[cruiserpilot]

I'm wiring up a brake controller into my 60 series wagon. It's 12V. I've done this twice before, and I keep wondering why does the 'BLUE' wire from the controller to the 7 connector plug ALWAYS corrode so badly? My understanding, although vague, is that the power from the battery is fed into the controller, and then this continuous power is fed from the controller to the plug through the Blue wire. Is this correct?



I know it's pretty straight forward as far as wiring, but I'm tired of having to replace plugs that are corroded right through. Would it be a good idea to put a switch on the blue wire when the controller is not being used to prevent continuous charging of this wire, and would that alleviate the problem?

 

[ntsqd]

My understanding is that the brake controller varies the voltage or the current in the blue wire to change the magnetic force that the trailer brake actuators have. The only time that there should be power in the blue wire is when you're actually braking.
Given that, I don't know why you're consistently having corrosion issues with that conductor and not the others as well.

 

[cruiserpilot]

You are right on both accounts. I've been asking around, but my solution is to put a switch on the dash directly above the controller
for the blue wire.
My opinion is that for the times while sitting holding the brakes, in the normal course of driving seems to have something to do with it.
Here in BC it is wet, and these are driven year around, so that maybe has something to do about it.
I rebuild the 7 wire plug using 2 to make one. The blue wire connectors were literally dust! I will go heavy on dielectric grease and make damn sure I silicone the back of the plug housing when it gets all put back together this weekend. Keep the crap out. I'm even thinking of putting the plug in a weatherproof box!

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Is it marine wire? Marine wire would hold up longer . Mike

 

[cruiserpilot]

Probably not, that would be wire with a higher tin content? Good advice, I'll ask my guy down at the marine shop. Can't even
imagine it being more than a couple of bucks for 15' of wire.

 

[ntsqd]

Turn off power to the controller instead of turning off the blue wire. Then the whole thing is dead and not doing something when you don't need it.

Marine wire is tin plated, not higher in tin content (though that may also be true).

Have to be careful with sealing efforts that you don't seal moisture IN.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Turn off power to the controller instead of turning off the blue wire. Then the whole thing is dead and not doing something when you don't need it.

Marine wire is tin plated, not higher in tin content (though that may also be true).

Have to be careful with sealing efforts that you don't seal moisture IN.

Ok, that is a better idea. So I'll insert switch on the line between the controller and the circuit breakers. Thanks.
I'll use dielectric on the connections at the rear; I'm just going to be more proactive with maintenance back there.
Sorry didn't get back to this, but I've just completed wiring my two winches through a isolator, and adding Anderson plug for boosting to the rear bumper as well. I'll be posting a
thread pretty soon, as soon as pics are all taken.

 

[Rubiconcruiser]

STOP!!! for safety sake DO NOT put a switch on the blue wire. Too many bad things can happen, and the big one is forget.
The corrosion issue is either too small a conductor or improper termination of the end of the conductor. Solution a bit of Di lectric grease before you clamp it down will solve most issues here and not leave you without brakes in a tough situation.