Brake booster and accumulator swap on a 2000 LC

[Propane]

I own a 2000 LC with 150k on the odometer. Had the warning lights and buzzer go off the other night with almost no brakes with the pedal to the floor. With a little research I figured it was the master cylinder. I completed the master cylinder rebuild following the DIY post here on the forum and though things would be good to go. However when it was all back together and I was bleeding the rear brakes with the key on I had no rear brake line pressure. I noticed I would hear the relays clicking under the hood but the booster motor wasn't running. I did a quick check on the wires running to the pump motor and could see the 12v lead would show 12v when the relay clicked but the motor wouldn't turn. I disassembled the motor and it was filled with a metallic dust so I vacuumed it out, rotated the motor and put it back together. I could see that the motor was not in good shape. Once reinstalled it ran but the first time it cycled off it hung up on the brushes and never ran again. I checked the power lead to the motor and it still shows 12v when it should.

I sourced a new motor/pump/accumulator assembly for $300 with a 90 day warranty. My question is when swapping this part do I need to perform any special procedures. When I did the master cylinder rebuild the assembly was unbolted and removed from the master cylinder. Since that is the case I should be able to swap in the new part and then reinstall the unit in the vehicle. Bleed the brakes as described in the other thread. Will the pump assembly bleed itself through the rear line bleeding with the key on? Any input would be appreciated.

 

[02cruzer]

I own a 2000 LC with 150k on the odometer. Had the warning lights and buzzer go off the other night with almost no brakes with the pedal to the floor. With a little research I figured it was the master cylinder. I completed the master cylinder rebuild following the DIY post here on the forum and though things would be good to go. However when it was all back together and I was bleeding the rear brakes with the key on I had no rear brake line pressure. I noticed I would hear the relays clicking under the hood but the booster motor wasn't running. I did a quick check on the wires running to the pump motor and could see the 12v lead would show 12v when the relay clicked but the motor wouldn't turn. I disassembled the motor and it was filled with a metallic dust so I vacuumed it out, rotated the motor and put it back together. I could see that the motor was not in good shape. Once reinstalled it ran but the first time it cycled off it hung up on the brushes and never ran again. I checked the power lead to the motor and it still shows 12v when it should.

I sourced a new motor/pump/accumulator assembly for $300 with a 90 day warranty. My question is when swapping this part do I need to perform any special procedures. When I did the master cylinder rebuild the assembly was unbolted and removed from the master cylinder. Since that is the case I should be able to swap in the new part and then reinstall the unit in the vehicle. Bleed the brakes as described in the other thread. Will the pump assembly bleed itself through the rear line bleeding with the key on? Any input would be appreciated.

Sorry I can't help with your question but where did you find the pump and accumulator for $300? Did you end up getting an answer to your question? I will be doing this in the next few weeks. Thanks

 

[Propane]

I found the part on eBay from 1-888-9-parts. It was the only one I could find without having to buy the entire master cylinder assembly. Everything is working great. I was able to bleed out all the lines but had the ABS and VSC lights come on. Took it up to the snow and gave the ABS and VSC a good work out on New Years Eve. Lights are all out now so I think one more bleed should do it.