Booster an Master Cylinder

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Hi all. I need a little advise. I have searched and there are many opinions and options. I need a booster and master cylinder for my '74 FJ40. I have a '77 disk front axle and I plan to do the monte carlo rear disks. I would like to buy something that bolts right on without a lot of mods required. What booster and master cylinder should I buy?
Thanks,
John
 
I'm running a dual-diaphram booster('78ish) with a stock master(minus the little white plastic thingies) on my '71(w/ '77 discs up front). I've been fine with drum master on a disc setup, but maybe someone else will speak up about some real performance gains they had when they swapped in a disc master. I think a Toyota pickup booster will probably be your cheapest option, and every time I've been to the U Pull Its, I've noticed that just about every Toyota master/booster have the same bolt patterns. I know there are some pushrod/spacing issues with some of the boosters though.
 
If you want to use something that you can actually find and afford you will likely have to run a 85-89 mini truck booster. You will have to shorten the push rod to the peddle a bit but other than that it bolts right in. I would also go with a master from either a late FJ40 or an FJ60. They look a bit different and I think the ports may be in different places (top or side), but nothing major. You will have to run a proportioning valve with either master cylinder. An OEM one would work if you can find one, but I usually just use a Willwood valve that you can get from any performance shop. A drum brake master would also work but you would have to remove the residual valve and it would probably cost more either way.

Also with the Monty rear disks you will likely have to much rear brake even with the prop valve.
 
If you want to use something that you can actually find and afford you will likely have to run a 85-89 mini truck booster. You will have to shorten the push rod to the peddle a bit but other than that it bolts right in. I would also go with a master from either a late FJ40 or an FJ60. They look a bit different and I think the ports may be in different places (top or side), but nothing major. You will have to run a proportioning valve with either master cylinder. An OEM one would work if you can find one, but I usually just use a Willwood valve that you can get from any performance shop. A drum brake master would also work but you would have to remove the residual valve and it would probably cost more either way.

Also with the Monty rear disks you will likely have to much rear brake even with the prop valve.

What he said!
 
If you want to use something that you can actually find and afford you will likely have to run a 85-89 mini truck booster. You will have to shorten the push rod to the peddle a bit but other than that it bolts right in. I would also go with a master from either a late FJ40 or an FJ60. They look a bit different and I think the ports may be in different places (top or side), but nothing major. You will have to run a proportioning valve with either master cylinder. An OEM one would work if you can find one, but I usually just use a Willwood valve that you can get from any performance shop. A drum brake master would also work but you would have to remove the residual valve and it would probably cost more either way.

Also with the Monty rear disks you will likely have to much rear brake even with the prop valve.

Thanks for the input, everyone. I'm going to be topless, so I guess that makes the rear lock-up problem even worse. I'll try hunting for a late eighties booster. I was hoping to be able to buy a new master. Seems like someone had posted something about a new master for an 80 series being affordable and working well with rear disks.
 
Good point on the rear disks. In that case I would go with a non ABS, 93 -95, 80 series master, which will also bolt to the mini booster. That should be a Toyota master designed for 4 wheel disks. I haven't actually ever done this with rear disks, because Im not a fan or rear disks in general, however it sounds like a good place to start. I would probably still install a prop vlv but that can always be done later.
 
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Thanks for the input, everyone. I'm going to be topless, so I guess that makes the rear lock-up problem even worse. I'll try hunting for a late eighties booster. I was hoping to be able to buy a new master. Seems like someone had posted something about a new master for an 80 series being affordable and working well with rear disks.

T-1oo's MC has larger bore and bolt's right up as well. :) It can be often sorced from the general auto parts stores(auto zone, etc) FYI read substantially cheaper than a FJ-80 MC from Toyota.
 
I was at the new Pull A Part off Monticello Rd @ I-20, and there was a SFA pickup with the booster still on it. They want $8.75 for brake boosters there, so I might be worth the risk of getting a junk one.
 
I was at the new Pull A Part off Monticello Rd @ I-20, and there was a SFA pickup with the booster still on it. They want $8.75 for brake boosters there, so I might be worth the risk of getting a junk one.

Thanks Nathan, I'll go check it out.
 
I have done this upgrade and have had excellent performance and no issues. I've got a 68, I put a 1975 non boosted corvette master cylinder, you have to fab up a bracket but it's a very simple bracket...lets you bolt the 3 hole MC to the 4 hole on the firewall. I can draw it up for you. I used my old push rod. No proportioning valve needed. I upgraded all new 10mm brake lines, front disk brakes off a 78 LC axle, and monty carlo rear calipers. Works perfect, drove from Clemson to hunting island. The MC I think was less than 50 bucks...I know it was very affordable....If I had to do it again I'd do it the same way. Let me know if ya need anymore info.

Chuck
 

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