Body Lift - DIY Spec's

[frogers935]

Note I did search but couldn't find the info I was interested in.

I am trying to either make my own BL or have 4crawler make me a set (Had his setup for my 4runner and liked the product and customer service).

What I need to know is:
Puck diameter
Stock bolt length (or length used for 1" BL)
Details on brackets for radiator
Details on steering extension

Any help is appreciated

 

[cybrstar]

HERE'S SOME HELP!

Im planning on a DIY for a 1" body lift. So far I gathered:

Puck Diameter: 2 5/8" hole saw or I'm going 3x3 square from tap plastic (King StarBoard) HDPE or UHMW (Or some people with a 1/2" body lift just went to Walmart and bought a hard plastic cutting board for $20 and used a hole saw... pretty much what HDPE is....)

Stock bolt length should be lengthen by 26mm=1 inch (or 12mm=.472 inch/19mm=.742 inch)
Each location point has a DS/PS
Stock Length New Length Needed For 1"
location 1 bolt length = 143mm 169mm
location 2 bolt length = 140mm 166mm
location 3 bolt length = 110mm 136mm
location 4 bolt length = 100mm 126mm
location 5 bolt length = 110mm 136mm

You can play around with the bolts or you can buy new bolts from your local hardware store looks like 3/8' grade 5 or 8 plus locknuts/fender washers.

Also you will have to address the Radiator and maybe the Steering shaft.
-Radiator you have to be Macgyver, (if you are not a Macgyver then please do not try and play around with this project as you can potentially hurt yourself....)
The radiator has 2 locations upper and lower. Upper is pretty easy, just drill a new hole on the body and it will be secure. Bottom...
Needs to be extended 3/4'. I've read of people hacksawing the bracket and extending it down to the frame, welding.....
Also I've read that people were able to run an extension from the end of the bracket to the frame. Like I said "Macgyver"

-Steering shaft can be addressed by taking the same material and building and extension the the circle bolt location or extending the steering shaft as what was done by the older BL'ted toyota trucks and 4runner. Also right behind the firewall there is a rubber boot that may squeak on turning side to side. I believe that you will have to loosen the clamp to relocate it lower from the body moving up 1 inch

There might be a bolt in the cargo area near point 6 that may need to be removed to prevent a squeaking sound on body flex. It is a double headed bolt that is both bolted to the frame and the body.

Shift linkage may be addressed too. THere have been occasions where people were unable to remove their key from the ignition because of the locking mechanism that deals with the transmission lever being in park. You may have to "fiddle" with the linkage.

I've read of people taking 12 hours installing a body lift? I've installed 4 BL's in my past and should take only 4 hours if everything is cooperating. Maybe the Hundy's are just that much more harder to work on.

I have not yet done this DIY, but I will attempt to. I figured that I would relay ALL THE MATERIAL THAT I HAVE SEARCHED for this bodylift and hopefully save you Hours of Reading.

I hope this will only be an informational DIY and not a popcorn thread (I've read too much).

I may be wrong, if you've done this before and would like to chime in..... Please do.

 

[frogers935]

Thank You. I was just putting together of list of things to buy, this is greatly appreciated.

I am planning on doing a 1/2" lift which hopefully will be enough to keep my tires from rubbing offroad.

 

[jgray]

Why not just make life easy and buy the reasonably priced BL kit from Duiser like I did?

100 Series Land Cruiser 1" Body Lift Kit

 

[cybrstar]

Because I just spent $20 for my 12 pucks(from taps plastic cut to 2.75inches square), and $10 on my bolts. And best of all I had to do it all by myself and get my hands dirty with no instructions. LOL.

Just got the pucks on and it only took about 2 hours. There were only a total of 6 - 3/8 bolts/washers/nuts that I needed to buy (grade 5 or higher)

4-7 inchers (locations 1/2)
2-4.5 inchers (location 4)
Locations 3/5 used 2/1 respectively.
Remember location 1 is the front of the car.

Now all I have to do is lowering the radiator or fan housing and steering feels kinda tight so just lengthen the rod (that's what she said!)

Pointers in both location 3's remove the rear 2 (front seat bolts) so it will be easier to get to them.
Also there are 2 bolts holding the center of the rear cargo area to the frame. You will not be able to lift the Hundy off the frame until these bolts are removed.
Also there are 2 bolts attached to each side of the hitch that needs to be removed.

My bumpers actually stretched and I do not have a gap in the front. (I have a ARB on its way but I thought that was interesting.)

I'll follow up with what I did later. Sorry no pictures as I think it's self explanatory. Enjoy.

 

[cybrstar]

K gott'er done now. Took me only 2 hours to figure out what to do and address the situation of the steering and the radiator. So 4 hours total.

Radiator:
I put my mcgyver hat on for this one. It is quite a simple fix after playing around with it. What needs to be done is lower it 3/4 of an inch to clear the fan on the motor. What I did is
A) remover the lower bracket attached to the radiator. Drill 2 new holes 3/4 lower (little offset so that the top hole has some fastener attachment)see attachment1
B)drill a new too hole 3/4 lower.
I used a a pilot drill bit then a stepped one to open them up.

Steering was easy. 2 bolts on the shaft a little tap and it moved I think 1/4 and retighten.

I also showed a picture of the front gap with the front bumper still attached to the front frame and body.

Overall I had fun with this project and I hope more will come.

 

[Mxshift72]

Cyber- I know this is a few months old.... I installed a 1" BL and everything went smooth but now I can't engage to 4lo.. I tried looking underneath to see if the tc linkage is adjustable.... But couldn't see... Any help would be appreciated. Thanx