Blue Sea fuse Block install questions (1 Viewer)

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What are the non fused terminals for? The groups of 3 at the top?
(1st question was answered)

New Question - I'm getting 12+ volts from my battery (all the way through) to the load side of a solenoid. The load side wire goes to the Blue Sea fuse block. At the fuse block it's getting less than 1v? The run is about 8 feet total, the run from the solenoid to the fuse block is about 3ft using 4 gage wire? The fuse block is grounded to the body? What I'm I missing?
5031.jpg
 
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Those are a common ground. They also sell them without the ground buss. On boats it is often easier to make connections at the fuse block because you can't just hook to the body or frame like we do on our rigs.

I have two blue seas fuse panels on my rig I just don't use the ones with a ground.

Tony
 
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New Question - I'm getting 12+ volts from my battery (all the way through) to the load side of a solenoid. The load side wire goes to the Blue Sea fuse block. At the fuse block it's getting less than 1v? The run is about 8 feet total, the run from the solenoid to the fuse block is about 3ft using 4 gage wire? The fuse block is grounded to the body? What I'm I missing?

Can you post up some sort of diagram how you have it wired. 4 gauge wire is probably a bit of overkill, and makes connections difficult. Look for a loose or broken connection.
 
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Can you post up some sort of diagram how you have it wired. 4 gauge wire is probably a bit of overkill, and makes connections difficult. Look for a loose or broken connection.

Ok here is the schematic of the wiring of the solenoid.

It seems to be working as intended except for not getting power at the fuse block. When I check the terminals 4 and 1 for volts I get zero. I'll hit terminal 2 with a wire that is hot direct from the battery and recheck 4 and 1 and then they will show 12+ volts.

Terminal 1 goes to the positive of the fuse block. I have a ground wire that goes from the negative post of the fuse block to the vehicle body.

Hopes this helps the description. I'll double check my checks at the fuse block. But wanted to make sure that I didn't miss something in the solenoid wiring. So any help there is appreciated.

Thanks
24200.jpg
242001.jpg
 
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The Relay/Solenoid will only be engaged as long as the "Momentary Switch" is closed. So that should be a toggle/rocker switch of some kind. The other thing that comes to mind is what are you referencing your measurement to? In other words, what are you touching the ground lead of your meter to? It should be the same reference point--either chassis ground, or a common wire, etc. Also, make sure your ground coming from the fuse block is making good connection to the chassis. Other than that, your diagram looks good.
 
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The Relay/Solenoid will only be engaged as long as the "Momentary Switch" is closed. So that should be a toggle/rocker switch of some kind. The other thing that comes to mind is what are you referencing your measurement to? In other words, what are you touching the ground lead of your meter to? It should be the same reference point--either chassis ground, or a common wire, etc. Also, make sure your ground coming from the fuse block is making good connection to the chassis. Other than that, your diagram looks good.

This solenoid is actually latching, you only use the momentary switch to engage or disengage. Once you hit it with 12v it stays on until it's hit again. That part is working. I'll check my grounds I'll post pics and see if you think I should find something better.
 
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Here are pix of the setup. Maybe my grounds are crappy? Oh and the blue sea block is mounted upside down, so the positive is at the top or on the left since the photo isn't rotated. Its also mounted on driver side kick panel.
P1010125.jpg
P1010128.jpg
P1010130.jpg
 
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Yeah, make sure your grounds are metal to metal contact with no paint in between. Man, those are big wires. Do you have some sort of short protection at the battery--big fuse or circuit breaker?

No fuse or circuit breaker yet, ideally those cables should be big enough to handle the load, specially since I only have the radio hooked up and one other accessory to the blue sea fuse block.
 
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Those cables are huge and will handle any load you throw at them. So you are good there. You need the short protection just in case one of those big wires gets shorted to ground. You will "burn down the house" if that happens and you don't have a fuse/fusible link/circuit breaker at the battery.
 
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Later UPDATE

UPDATE: I cleaned up my grounds, they are on bare metal.

Here's what my volt meter tells me:
With solenoid not engage
1. +Battery to solenoid: 12v at terminal 3 ground only
2. +Battery to solenoid: continuity at terminal 1 and 4
3. Continuity at solenoid: Terminal 2 and 3
4. Continuity from solenoid to fuseblock: Terminal 4 to Positive terminal, Negative Terminal, common ground terminals and only the 2 (hot) terminals with fuses that I have connected.
5. solenoid to fuseblock: Terminal 4 to all common grounds and negative 12V
6. Solenoid to fuseblock: Terminal 4 to all positive is zero volts

With solenoid engage:
7. Solenoid to Fuse block: Terminal 4 to all positive and negatives contacts is zero volts
8. Continuity from solenoid to fuse block: Terminal 4 to Positive terminal, the 2 (hot) terminals with fuse that I have connected
9.Battery to solenoid: +battery to all terminals have continuity
10. Battery to solenoid: +Battery to terminal 2, 3, and 4 show 12V
 
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Simple question, what is that solenoid even in the circuit for? I can't see that it serves a purpose. Just hook the fuse block direct to the battery through a fuse of some type at the source (battery). I run maxi fuses (50 amp) to both my blue seas fuse blocks. Keep it simple.

Tony
 
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UPDATE: I cleaned up my grounds, they are on bare metal.

Here's what my volt meter tells me:
With solenoid not engage
1. +Battery to solenoid: 12v at terminal 3 ground only
2. +Battery to solenoid: continuity at terminal 1 and 4
3. Continuity at solenoid: Terminal 2 and 3
4. Continuity from solenoid to fuseblock: Terminal 4 to Positive terminal, Negative Terminal, common ground terminals and only the 2 (hot) terminals with fuses that I have connected.
5. solenoid to fuseblock: Terminal 4 to all common grounds and negative 12V
6. Solenoid to fuseblock: Terminal 4 to all positive is zero volts

With solenoid engage:
7. Solenoid to Fuse block: Terminal 4 to all positive and negatives contacts is zero volts
8. Continuity from solenoid to fuse block: Terminal 4 to Positive terminal, the 2 (hot) terminals with fuse that I have connected
9.Battery to solenoid: +battery to all terminals have continuity
10. Battery to solenoid: +Battery to terminal 2, 3, and 4 show 12V

According to your diagram, when the solenoid is not engaged, you should only have +12 volts at terminal 1. You should have some resistance (ohms) between terminal 2 and 3 and there should be infinite resistance between 1 and 4.

If it is a latching solenoid, how does it unlatch?
 
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Simple question, what is that solenoid even in the circuit for? I can't see that it serves a purpose. Just hook the fuse block direct to the battery through a fuse of some type at the source (battery). I run maxi fuses (50 amp) to both my blue seas fuse blocks. Keep it simple.

Tony

with a hit of momentary switch and I give or cut all power to aux systems (fuse block) and since it's latching the solenoid doesnt draw amps while inuse.
 
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According to your diagram, when the solenoid is not engaged, you should only have +12 volts at terminal 1. You should have some resistance (ohms) between terminal 2 and 3 and there should be infinite resistance between 1 and 4.

If it is a latching solenoid, how does it unlatch?

I would agree, maybe I'm not putting my volt meter prongs on the right location? One prong on the terminal 1 and the other is ground or back to the postive of the battery?

To unlatch it, you just re-energize the coil, hit the momentary switch again. How it physically works as in the design, I'm not sure:confused:
It's a cole hersee solenoid, 24200 model.
 

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