BJ74 tie rod end question (1 Viewer)

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This drag link end will not come off, after hours of penetrating fluid and trying to hammer it out, any suggestions ?
 
You need a ball joint/tie rod separator tool.
 
You need a ball joint/tie rod separator tool.
Exactly. Is required on pivot arm and knuckles.
Did you ever do this procedure before?
You should carefully measure the lenght of each rod to maintain wheel alignment and toe-in.
Note that the new items may slightly differ in dimensions, like cone offset from the end, thread length etc. In particular the thread length may differ, so 'same amount of threads in' is not a reliable thing.
You need to measure from joint to joint.
Take or make a permanent mark on each rod endpiece and measure distance in between.
Carefully compare new and old rod endpieces, have the joints aligned and match over your permanent mark from the old to the new item.
Assemble and set to measured length.
You may experience the rod endpieces to be seazed in the rod tube.
It is a good habit to inspect the tubes for wall thickness (they rust from inside out) and straightness. A weak tie rod is pretty dangerous.
Apply some rust protection (e.g. wax, fluidfilm ) into the tube and some grease to the threads. Do not grease the cones though.
 
Exactly. Is required on pivot arm and knuckles.
Did you ever do this procedure before?
You should carefully measure the lenght of each rod to maintain wheel alignment and toe-in.
Note that the new items may slightly differ in dimensions, like cone offset from the end, thread length etc. In particular the thread length may differ, so 'same amount of threads in' is not a reliable thing.
You need to measure from joint to joint.
Take or make a permanent mark on each rod endpiece and measure distance in between.
Carefully compare new and old rod endpieces, have the joints aligned and match over your permanent mark from the old to the new item.
Assemble and set to measured length.
You may experience the rod endpieces to be seazed in the rod tube.
It is a good habit to inspect the tubes for wall thickness (they rust from inside out) and straightness. A weak tie rod is pretty dangerous.
Apply some rust protection (e.g. wax, fluidfilm ) into the tube and some grease to the threads. Do not grease the cones
Exactly. Is required on pivot arm and knuckles.
Did you ever do this procedure before?
You should carefully measure the lenght of each rod to maintain wheel alignment and toe-in.
Note that the new items may slightly differ in dimensions, like cone offset from the end, thread length etc. In particular the thread length may differ, so 'same amount of threads in' is not a reliable thing.
You need to measure from joint to joint.
Take or make a permanent mark on each rod endpiece and measure distance in between.
Carefully compare new and old rod endpieces, have the joints aligned and match over your permanent mark from the old to the new item.
Assemble and set to measured length.
You may experience the rod endpieces to be seazed in the rod tube.
It is a good habit to inspect the tubes for wall thickness (they rust from inside out) and straightness. A weak tie rod is pretty dangerous.
Apply some rust protection (e.g. wax, fluidfilm ) into the tube and some grease to the threads. Do not grease the cones though.
Thanks man! I’ve done this before on another vehicle but the bolts were not this hard to pop off, after banging it with a hammer and tons of penetrating fluid I don’t see the tool popping it off. Gonna stop at my local shop and get the tool I’ll keep you guys updated 👍🏼
 

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