BJ74 Starter Removal

[seaken]

Does anyone know how to remove starter on BJ74 with Turbo 13B-T motor . I can't see any easy way to drop it down or lift it out . And is there a special way to disconnect batteries in the 24 Volt system .

Thanks Newbee

 

[ForealBoreal]

your going to need a whole bunch of extensions to get back there.
I helped take out one on a 3B and it took a handful of them because stuff was tight.

 

[seaken]

Yes . Then I can't see how it will come out without disconnecting a lot of stuff . Or cutting into the cover around the wheel well .

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Batteries: always remove the ground first, then the other connections.

The 13BT starter will come out more easily if you undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine to provide clearance. In any case, it's tight to work in there.

Removing the batteries and battery trays only takes a few moments.


~John

 

[seaken]

Thanks : that will be helpfull

 

[Malahki]

I am assuming we are talking about a RHD. I did mine without removing or unbolting anything extra. At first I thought it was impossible but with a little patience and some pinched fingers I discovered their is a way it will come out.

After unbolting the starter, rotate it in position so that the motor is on top. Then drop the front end down vertically between the frame rail and engine. The gear housing will then drop through with a little twist.

 

[seaken]

Yes it is RD . Thanks that will make it a lot easier . I am hoping to remove it then have it rebuilt at a local starter rebuild shop .

 

[Whistler74]

As the saying goes, you will need the "hands of Houdini" to get it out and back in, but it is possible. If you have an auto trans you'll have to pull the cooler line out of the way as well. A/C lines are in the way from coming out the top I believe. I like the idea of trimming a bit of the inner fender but I hope to not have to do it again. Rebuilding at a local auto electric shop was no problem and was a bit under $200.

You will deserve a beer or six after you're done!

 

[Radd Cruisers]

As the saying goes, you will need the "hands of Houdini" to get it out and back in, but it is possible. If you have an auto trans you'll have to pull the cooler line out of the way as well. A/C lines are in the way from coming out the top I believe. I like the idea of trimming a bit of the inner fender but I hope to not have to do it again. Rebuilding at a local auto electric shop was no problem and was a bit under $200.

You will deserve a beer or six after you're done!

Easy compared removing the supercharger on my 100 series to get at the starter......

 

[hotgemini]

Thanks for the advice on this, was quite handy although on its own didn't get me through.

On my RHD BJ74 I had to drop the clutch slave (just left it dangling) and remove the engine to gearbox brace to get more room.

I'd bought an EBay starter listed as suiting a BJ74, however the clocking of the mounting bolts was wrong and both holes were threaded. So we swapped the solenoid, motor and rear half of the gearbox from the new starter onto the front half of the gearbox from the old starter.

Also could not manage to loosen the screw holding the trigger wire (phillips head was completely devoid of anything resembling a phillips head) so cut it and crimped and heatshrunk a new fitting.

I'll do some bench testing, but I'm not actually sure that the issue I had wasn't actually with a high-resistance joint in the trigger wire where it attaches onto the starter, the cable had frayed and corroded...

 

[Malahki]

Thanks for the advice on this, was quite handy although on its own didn't get me through.

On my RHD BJ74 I had to drop the clutch slave (just left it dangling) and remove the engine to gearbox brace to get more room.

Hmm?? Not sure what could be any different on yours but I've done a couple of these without removing any extras. Maybe you didnt pinch your fingers enough times to figure it out, lol. My previous instructions are good!! (for any body searching in the future)

I am assuming we are talking about a RHD. I did mine without removing or unbolting anything extra. At first I thought it was impossible but with a little patience and some pinched fingers I discovered their is a way it will come out.

After unbolting the starter, rotate it in position so that the motor is on top. Then drop the front end down vertically between the frame rail and engine. The gear housing will then drop through with a little twist.

 

[hotgemini]

I wouldn't be surprised if the difference is that this truck is also overdue for a new gearbox mount, it was millimetricly close to coming out without pulling those other items, but wouldn't quite get through.

 

[carpet]

Funny how this thread just popped up as I was installing my starter yesterday, I already had removed the slave cylinder but had already put the engine gearbox brace back on ( after engine rebuild). I figured it was worth taking it back off made it that much easier. Not sure how you did it without removing anything but well done