BJ74 Lockers

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Hey there folks, looking at lockers for my 89 BJ74 FF rear.... Im tossed up with the Aussies or ARB, any thoughts?
Also is it true that some of these came with LSD? and if so it WOULD be marked somewhere easy to see right?????
 
Hey there folks, looking at lockers for my 89 BJ74 FF rear.... Im tossed up with the Aussies or ARB, any thoughts?
Also is it true that some of these came with LSD? and if so it WOULD be marked somewhere easy to see right?????

aussie! cheaper simpler and then move the lsd up front.

imo :D
 
Hey there folks, looking at lockers for my 89 BJ74 FF rear.... Im tossed up with the Aussies or ARB, any thoughts?
Also is it true that some of these came with LSD? and if so it WOULD be marked somewhere easy to see right?????

There is a big difference in price between the ARB air locker and the Aussie locker.
The air locker is selectable so it doesnt chirp around corners like the auto locker.

If you dont want to spend up big on air lockers,I would be looking at the newer styles of Detroit Lockers .

The aluminum tag on the firewall gives the info on diff type. KO85 is the LSD. KO82 is an open diff and KO84 is the factory locker
 
interesting... ok well she says K085.... so that means LSD on the back... Ummmmm another small question, If a month ago I changed all the fluids and I just put regular gear oil in the rear diff.... is that a bad thing?
 
Hey there folks, looking at lockers for my 89 BJ74 FF rear.... Im tossed up with the Aussies or ARB, any thoughts?
Also is it true that some of these came with LSD? and if so it WOULD be marked somewhere easy to see right?????



Pocket lockers work (2MK) by the cross pin pressing the locking mechanisms apart under load and engaging the teeth and thus you have a spool, in a turn you are (supposed) to let off (unload) the accelerator pedal and the backlash will allow release and let the teeth skip over each other (ratchet sound ;) ) per the over run side more than likely thus an interrupted spool.


In extreme situations you can really cause some damage, the kind its hard to drive home on....;) cross pin, carrier (super common, across the board not necessarily LC), locker bits & pieces....



Me I despise lunch box lockers for the damage they can do, and most people with a bad experience with them will tell you the same. Anyone who says "heck yeah! cheap! cheaper!!, I'd..."" has not had it happen to them yet. They have horrible on road manners unless you are constantly accelerating while you drive (think sway in bad cross wind, and you got super SWB....hmmm?) you create unload (every time you let off) and load (every time you let on) situations, but if you are the "I know what I'm in for" kinda guy and go into this knowing then go for it.

Other wise selectable locker or a GEARED limited slip would also be a good choice .

Bottom line I would ask myself what I wanted as far as off-road, and how much time I spent off-road. Sorta like "should I use a bias ply or radial?" ask yourself some questions and it'll come to you.
 
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Pocket lockers work (2MK) by the cross pin pressing the locking mechanisms apart under load and engaging the teeth and thus you have a spool, in a turn you are (supposed) to let off (unload) the accelerator pedal and the backlash will allow release and let the teeth skip over each other (ratchet sound ;) ) per the over run side more than likely thus an interrupted spool.


In extreme situations you can really cause some damage, the kind its hard to drive home on....;) cross pin, carrier (super common, across the board not necessarily LC), locker bits & pieces....



Me I despise lunch box lockers for the damage they can do, and most people with a bad experience with them will tell you the same. Anyone who says "heck yeah! cheap! cheaper!!, I'd..."" has not had it happen to them yet. They have horrible on road manners unless you are constantly accelerating while you drive (think sway in bad cross wind, and you got super SWB....hmmm?) you create unload (every time you let off) and load (every time you let on) situations, but if you are the "I know what I'm in for" kinda guy and go into this knowing then go for it.

Other wise selectable locker or a GEARED limited slip would also be a good choice .

Bottom line I would ask myself what I wanted as far as off-road, and how much time I spent off-road. Sorta like "should I use a bias ply or radial?" ask yourself some questions and it'll come to you.

please tell us more about your personal bad experience with aussie locker.

cheers
 
interesting... ok well she says K085.... so that means LSD on the back... Ummmmm another small question, If a month ago I changed all the fluids and I just put regular gear oil in the rear diff.... is that a bad thing?

Depends,if it has over a 100000 klms on it ,it may well be worn out as they are not the greatest LSD ever made.
Otherwise if you think its still good,just drain and refill with LSD fluid.

TJM also make a version of the air locker that is gaining popularity over the ARB air locker.
 
Depends,if it has over a 100000 klms on it ,it may well be worn out as they are not the greatest LSD ever made.
Otherwise if you think its still good,just drain and refill with LSD fluid.

TJM also make a version of the air locker that is gaining popularity over the ARB air locker.

interesting....

TJM Pro Locker
 

Is supposed to have better seals or o rings or something of that nature. Its based on a Jack Mcnamara locker design and he still gets a royalty on each one sold.
Its priced the same as the ARB. If I get a locker this maybe the one;)
 
interesting... ok well she says K085.... so that means LSD on the back... Ummmmm another small question, If a month ago I changed all the fluids and I just put regular gear oil in the rear diff.... is that a bad thing?

I've not done it, however others here have reported good experience taking the LSD unit out, sand blasting the faces, and putting back together adding shims so there is more pressure on the LSD.

With the Aussie if set up correct and not under load when trying to differentiate you should notice no chirping around corners. You may well hear it ratcheting. You do have to change your driving style a bit, but I've been pleasantly surprised and pleased with the Aussie in Poo. However, if you can swing it...a selectable locker is much nicer all round.

gb
 
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ARB is costly but well worth it. Having the selectability is the key factor. The carrier is open while on the pavement and then when you go wheeling in the less traction you activate it no muss no fuss!
It really depends on the coin factor, if you do I would suggest an ARB for the rear
 
I ran a Loc-rite (I think the same as aussie) for well over 2 years in my old BJ74. I put around 50k km with no problems whatsoever. I beat the crap out of that rig (off-road) on a regular basis and never had an issue. The only thing I didn't like was the torque steer on the highway, which I eventually got used to, and the chirping when doing tight turns on pavement ie. parking lots. I don't know if I would spend the money on the ARB myself. I hate to rely on electrical systems, especially with the type of wheeling I do. I would rather save up the extra dough and get a cable locker if I could find one. Just my 2 cents.
 
there also seems to be an occasional problem with air lockers in cold climates with the air lines collecting moisture and freezing up... cable lockers are ultimately the best no compressor just cable.

aussie lockers are well documented and some what of a known quantity.

imo :lol:
 
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