BJ74 leaking

[LowFour]

This little truck has started leaking in the rain, now it's pouring in onto the drivers feet (RHD). It was fine 6 months ago, only started happening recently. Along with this I'm getting a few electrical gremlins.

It doesn't seem to be leaking through the windscreen, where the dashboard meets the screen on the inside it's dry as can be. It's hard to work out where the water's coming through, all the wiring, ducts and so on under the dash makes it hard to get a good look at things.

In an old car of mine, it used to leak when the gutter in front of the windscreen got blocked up with leaves - I pulled the grill of the gutter, it looks clean but I can't see where it drains out. Is this a problem in the 70's cruisers? Can anyone think of somewhere else to look?

thanks, Peter

 

[roscoFJ73]

Last year mine leaked under the windscreen frame on the left side but like yours was dry on top of the dash.
There is a rubber seal under there that eventually perishes and loses its sealng effect.
I plugged mine with a nice neat coating of black rubber sealant.
It was only supposed to be temporary but its worked so well I forgot all about it unti; this post.

I tracked the leak down by strategically wetting certain areas with the garden hose and working upwards till I got a leak.

 

[LowFour]

rosco, I'll have a go with the hose. I'd ruled out the windscreen after seeing the top of the dash dry as a bone, but it could be - especially in these 'convertibles', the big joins are nver going to be as sound as a solid top.

ps did you see St. Kilda v Freo on the telly? Go Sainters!! A pretty crap game by the saints, Freo deserved to win really.

Peter

 

[LowFour]

ok, you were right, the seal where the windscreen frame hinges down is dry as a dead dingoes donger (bit of Australian flavour there). Put a hose on it and it's dripping inside in short order. the drain under the screen seems pretty failproof, the water just pours straight out underneath. not like my old renault with the fancy drainpipes that blocked up every few months

btw has anyone ever driven an FRP top cruiser with the windscreen folded down? How do you secure it? there's no connect points on the bonnet/hood - more than walking speed and it would be lifting up surely

thanks Rosco, Peter

 

[roscoFJ73]

ok, you were right, the seal where the windscreen frame hinges down is dry as a dead dingoes donger (bit of Australian flavour there). Put a hose on it and it's dripping inside in short order. the drain under the screen seems pretty failproof, the water just pours straight out underneath. not like my old renault with the fancy drainpipes that blocked up every few months

btw has anyone ever driven an FRP top cruiser with the windscreen folded down? How do you secure it? there's no connect points on the bonnet/hood - more than walking speed and it would be lifting up surely

thanks Rosco, Peter

I missed that game,once the WestCoast have played (and won) I switch off the football.

Back to the fold down windscreen.Yes it does fold down and in other countries they come with a soft top and bonnet mounts that support the windscreen.
They also have half doors
Im not sure how the WS is held down though,maybe some one else can help out.
There is also some thing special about the wipers

Lets see ifI can find a pic ,mmm. This one is a aussie spec LJ70 but the windscreen ect is the same.

Some of the guys on here have removed the windscreen and left the roof intact to repair that pesky seal with pics but I cant remember who.

This link is to Island Moose Landcruiser convertable 70 and a better side on pic.I never quite understood why those in the coldest climates with grizzlies get cool cruisers like this and in sunny downunder we miss out
https://forum.ih8mud.com/member.php?u=4939

 

[LowFour]

that beach buggy cruiser is pretty cool. Is that a WA beach? Most places in the south-east you can't drive on beaches anymore. No worries in the NT of course, but around here the beaches are mostly mangrove mud anyway.

Mooses half-door and no roll bar in the back make the machine look pretty smart. Australian bureaucracy rides again! If it feels good it must be bad for you, and we better ban it.

I can't see myself ever folding down the windscreen on my truck, so I figure I'll just get out the silicone and bog the thing right up.

peter

 

[my02]

I'm about to pick up an FRP windscreen from Don Kayats this week.

Will also probably get some sort of extruded rubber to effect a new seal between the firewall and the new frame as I suspect the old one is pretty much buggered (I've also had the wet feet problem)

I'd be very interested to hear from anyone who managed to replace or remove their windscreen frame without removing their roof.

I've also heard that the roof can be pretty heavy (two man lift effort). I'm hardly a skinny bloke but I don't fancy having to press off a heavy lump of fibreglass when a couple of mates plied with a couple of James Boags (thats a beer for all of you outside of Oz) could do the job for me!!

If anyone can shed some light or info, I'd be very grateful.

I'll also get some pics taken to show the process.

 

[LowFour]

Workshop manuals on Birfield - big downloads, hope you've got a good connection, but worthwhile

http://www.birfield.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=77

Just looking at the body manual (1984-1990 Chassis & Body) it doesn't say anything about removing the windscreen frame, just generic stuff about replacing windshield glass. It does say how to remove the FRP, but in workshop manual shorthand - "Remove the FRP top by pulling directly up" - nothing about how many pissed mates you need.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I'm about to pick up an FRP windscreen from Don Kayats this week.

Will also probably get some sort of extruded rubber to effect a new seal between the firewall and the new frame as I suspect the old one is pretty much buggered (I've also had the wet feet problem)

I'd be very interested to hear from anyone who managed to replace or remove their windscreen frame without removing their roof.

I've also heard that the roof can be pretty heavy (two man lift effort). I'm hardly a skinny bloke but I don't fancy having to press off a heavy lump of fibreglass when a couple of mates plied with a couple of James Boags (thats a beer for all of you outside of Oz) could do the job for me!!

If anyone can shed some light or info, I'd be very grateful.

I'll also get some pics taken to show the process.

How much is the FRP frame? Ive seen them and they do look like an original but a steel frame is only about $650.
Of course the FRP will never rust again
The rubber seal that goes under the windsceen is only about $70 for an aftermarket.
I think lifting the roof may well be a better way of taking the windscreen frame out.
Ive never done it but others have mentioned not gettting a good seal around the top of the WS frame when reinstalling,but as I said I have no experience in it.
I think the best way to lift the FRP top would be with a block and tackle in a shed with your mates just having to steady it as it comes up.
Less work less free beer

Lowrider,that LJ70 has NSW plates on it and was posted for sale on the Landcruiser Discussion board some time back.
We are not too bad off as far as beach access goes they can ban it but policing our coastline is another thing.
Anyway its good for tourism.
Beach access is allowed most places outside the city and towns.
Keeping out of fragile dune systems keeps the locals and greenies happy.

 

[my02]

How much is the FRP frame? Ive seen them and they do look like an original but a steel frame is only about $650.

to lift the FRP top would be with a block and tackle in a shed with your mates just having to steady it as it comes up.
Less work less free beer

Rosco, the FRP part is circa $415 plus GST. 2nd hand parts go for $650 however the original from Toyo costs around $1k!! I'll be needing a new glass as well so I want to keep the cost down. I don't know if I want to keep the car for much longer as my new job will probably yield a company car. But since rifling through this site, I may have to keep it and use the saved money to spruce it up and accessorize it!!

Block and tackle might be a bit awkward (got one you can send to Sydney). Maybe 3 rugby blokes should do the job!!

Cheers

 

[my02]

Workshop manuals on Birfield - big downloads, hope you've got a good connection, but worthwhile

http://www.birfield.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=77

Just looking at the body manual (1984-1990 Chassis & Body) it doesn't say anything about removing the windscreen frame, just generic stuff about replacing windshield glass. It does say how to remove the FRP, but in workshop manual shorthand - "Remove the FRP top by pulling directly up" - nothing about how many pissed mates you need.

Low Four, I've got a hard copy on how to remove the top. Its just a question of avoiding hassle if possible.

My mate in Perth said that when removing his FRP, some of the bolts sheered off. I remember hearing somewhere on here that if you drop the windscreen DOWN after removing the hinges, it could come out. Guess I'll have to have a play (then borrow the G/F's car to sort out any other problems!

 

[BJBully]

There's a bloke on Ebay selling the fiberglass windscreen surrounds for $375 buy it now. They are on there every couple of weeks.
You can take out the surround by removing the hinges where they attach underneath and then pull the screen out from the bottom. The top rubber where it joins the roof will probably break though if it is as perished as mine is.

 

[my02]

Well, i managed to remove the w/s frame without touching the roof (thank goodness).

As long as you remove all nuts (including the 6 or so hidden behind trim at the top of the frame, its a fairly pain free job, however it does require a little bit of gentle persuasion.

My original frame was absoloutely shagged! Rusted to bits and simply dangerous.

There was a little bit of rust evident at the top of the bulkhead which was found when the rubber seal was removed.

I found that the seal was in pretty good condition and I think I may have found a way of curing or at least vastly improving the sealing ability.

When I removed the frame, the seal seemed to have lifted slightly (proably allowing water to be driven in in the rain at higher speeds) making it look as though it was perishing and losing shape. I removed it the seal, washed it down and doused it in Armourall to try to soften it. I placed it back on but it didn't seem to sit very firmly so I removed it again.

I noticed that the seal sits on a lip at the top of the bulkhead. As a part of the seal there is a firm folded area which should squeeze down onto the lip. The folded area was "open" in its feel so I finger squeezed it to a tighter fit and found that when it was paced back on the lip on the bulkhead, it say flush with the surface. To ensure a better seal, I then sprayed on a lanolin based spray to A) form a waterproof cover for the bulkhead and hopefuly prevent future rusting and B) form a seal between the main rubber seal and the top of the bulkhead. When this stuff dries, it becomes sticky so I hope to it will serve to help keep the rubber in place ( like a mild glue) whilst protecting from water.

As this is a pretty straightforward operation, I'd advise anyone with leakage problems to give it a try. Even if it doesn't pay off, its a good chance to slap some silicone of simlar in place and sort out any rusting. Just allow your self a few hours. We did it all in about 3 (including beer, burgers and bum scratching)


The new FRP frame was then placed back on and with a little help from a couple of mates was fitted loosely into place.

It was then a question of getting the seals fitting correctly around the top of the pillars, then FORCING the bolts back into place. Some went in fine others are simply too short or the thread is too worn, so its off to the hardware store tomorrow to get some slightly longer versions.

A word of warning though, for those of you with access to the FRP panels (probably those in Oz), you may need to drill two holes in the very top of the FRP item to help bolt it to the roof. At present the roof sits about 1cm high in the middle as it is not bolted down properly. I need to use a mate's drill, carefully bore new holes and put the new bolts in. However after then, there is no option to re-fit the trim which sits at the top of the screen between the roof and frame. A minor thing I know and with a bit of blag fab, I could get it back on there.

I guess you just need to be aware that the FRP frame doesn't come absoloutely ready to swap.

I did have the camera at the ready, unfortunaly the batteries didn't come to the party so nil pics I'm afraid

Will let you know how things finish up.

 

[Canuck]

Last year mine leaked under the windscreen frame on the left side but like yours was dry on top of the dash.
There is a rubber seal under there that eventually perishes and loses its sealng effect.
I plugged mine with a nice neat coating of black rubber sealant.
It was only supposed to be temporary but its worked so well I forgot all about it unti; this post.

Did you do this without folding the windscreen down? I believe my BJ74 has developed the same type of leak.

 

[bigbrowndog]

Well, i managed to remove the w/s frame without touching the roof (thank goodness).

As long as you remove all nuts (including the 6 or so hidden behind trim at the top of the frame, its a fairly pain free job, however it does require a little bit of gentle persuasion.

My original frame was absoloutely shagged! Rusted to bits and simply dangerous.

There was a little bit of rust evident at the top of the bulkhead which was found when the rubber seal was removed.

I found that the seal was in pretty good condition and I think I may have found a way of curing or at least vastly improving the sealing ability.

When I removed the frame, the seal seemed to have lifted slightly (proably allowing water to be driven in in the rain at higher speeds) making it look as though it was perishing and losing shape. I removed it the seal, washed it down and doused it in Armourall to try to soften it. I placed it back on but it didn't seem to sit very firmly so I removed it again.

I noticed that the seal sits on a lip at the top of the bulkhead. As a part of the seal there is a firm folded area which should squeeze down onto the lip. The folded area was "open" in its feel so I finger squeezed it to a tighter fit and found that when it was paced back on the lip on the bulkhead, it say flush with the surface. To ensure a better seal, I then sprayed on a lanolin based spray to A) form a waterproof cover for the bulkhead and hopefuly prevent future rusting and B) form a seal between the main rubber seal and the top of the bulkhead. When this stuff dries, it becomes sticky so I hope to it will serve to help keep the rubber in place ( like a mild glue) whilst protecting from water.

As this is a pretty straightforward operation, I'd advise anyone with leakage problems to give it a try. Even if it doesn't pay off, its a good chance to slap some silicone of simlar in place and sort out any rusting. Just allow your self a few hours. We did it all in about 3 (including beer, burgers and bum scratching)


The new FRP frame was then placed back on and with a little help from a couple of mates was fitted loosely into place.

It was then a question of getting the seals fitting correctly around the top of the pillars, then FORCING the bolts back into place. Some went in fine others are simply too short or the thread is too worn, so its off to the hardware store tomorrow to get some slightly longer versions.

A word of warning though, for those of you with access to the FRP panels (probably those in Oz), you may need to drill two holes in the very top of the FRP item to help bolt it to the roof. At present the roof sits about 1cm high in the middle as it is not bolted down properly. I need to use a mate's drill, carefully bore new holes and put the new bolts in. However after then, there is no option to re-fit the trim which sits at the top of the screen between the roof and frame. A minor thing I know and with a bit of blag fab, I could get it back on there.

I guess you just need to be aware that the FRP frame doesn't come absoloutely ready to swap.

I did have the camera at the ready, unfortunaly the batteries didn't come to the party so nil pics I'm afraid

Will let you know how things finish up.

I changed out my windscreen frame about 12 months ago with a genuine frame, very easy job but the windscreen fitter said that the fiber glass frames are a bitch to fit the glass into as the section is thicker. A couple of weeks ago I fitted a new roof took, about one hour.

 

[LowFour]

I bogged up under the leaking windscreen in my bj74 two weeks ago, but the dry season has finally hit here, no rain since then to try it out and probably won't be until October. It passed the hose test though.

I used Dow Corning Silastic Windscreen, a bit more expensive than the usual silicone tubes but the shop guy reckons this one has strong adhesive properties the others don't have. I did it carefully, it looks a treat. Not so good I suppose if you want to fold the screen down, but then I don't. https://forum.ih8mud.com/images/icons/icon6.gif

 

[bigbrowndog]

 

[my02]

Ithe windscreen fitter said that the fiber glass frames are a bitch to fit the glass into as the section is thicker.

Guess I'll see what happens tomorrow morning then!!

 

[my02]

Grommet problem

We've just had a few days of heavy rain in Sydney, and as a consequence, I ended up with a left hand footwell full of water.

Having done a search and read through this and other threads, I tried a hose method to see where the water was coming through. As can be seen above, I have already replaced the windscreen frame and addressed any issues around there.

But I still had the drip into the footwell.

After plenty of head scratching, here is what I discovered which could help a few of you who might have the same problems.

I poured water on the side of the windscreen frame to try to identify EXACTLY where the water was coming in from and found that it was worse when on the side (as opposed to the front).

Having removed the plastic cowling from the footwell, I could see more clearly (a little anyway) as to how the water trickled down the inside of the footwell, behind the fan blower.

I had a quick feel and found a sharp hole. I looked to see if this could link to anything external, and it did! This is the hole for the radio aerial cable.

If you open the door and look carefully behind the through the gap where is attachs to the wing, there is a cable running through a grommet. My grommet had moved and upon pouring more water on the side, it was running down the cable, through the open hole and into the footwell. If I had the time, I would have removed the door and reitted te grommet but bad light stopped play. So for now, I've bunged the hole with silicone to see if this solves the problem.

I'll test it tomorrow after the silicone has had a chance to settle.

Hope this helps anyone who may have similar problems. Pic below wasn't re-sized V well, so I'll have a go later. However it gives you an idea as to where to look. Pretty much in the centre of the image, beyond the black door seal is where the grommet is.