Bj73..... 3B turbo install

[3B power]

Hey guys, I own a bj73 with a 3B and I've gotten over everyone passing me on hills and just the fact of having a diesel without a turbo lol
Ok, so I want to turbo my rig without taking it off the road for too long so i went out and bout a complete 3B for $300 and had a t3 turbo given to me. Since then I've been slowly, slowly getting everything I need to do this conversion and I think the only thing I missing now is exhaust manifold which I will have along with my next pay check lol I just want to know what I need to move where and what's involved and if it's worth it..
Cheers

 

[yotahed]

Sooo worth it

Youll be very impressed with the performance once you get it all dialed in. Took me about 6 months to get it perfect and figure out how to adjust everything quickly. What AR ratio is the turbo? mine is .42 exhaust and .48 compressor. Good match as i can get well over 20 psi without limiting it, but still get boost fairly low down. I've capped mine off at 15 psi max and it's working very well.

Just make sure your HG is in good shape or swap it while the engine is out with OEM Toyota. I didnt change mine and I cooked it quite quickly.

I have also swapped my governor/diaphram spring for a mercedes non turbo one, and it makes a big difference in fuel curve/delivery for 10 bucks.

Let me know if you want more info.

cheers and happy boosting!

 

[buschmaster86]

And put a npr intercooler !

i want to do that also but have to find a place to move the airco rad to so the npr will fit

 

[3B power]

Thanx heaps for the info guys!! And an intercooler is most certainly going on
Now I've measured my RA and it's around .44 exhaust and .52 comp so does that mean it will help me more down low or up high? I found out that the turbo is off an arb kit for a 2.4lt diesel Aussie engine but I'm running the same turbo on my 2H and it's fine so I'm hoping it'll work for the 3B lol
Now, you need to teach me abit more about how I can see if my HG is in good condition and do you guys have any pics I can go off???
Thanx again for the info noone knows about 3B's in Australia!!! Hahaha

 

[yotahed]

Good way to tell if a HG is any good is looking at the front of the motor where the head meets the block. If there's any oil stains there, it's time. this means the oil o-ring is shot there, which means as soon as you add boost it'll blow. Thats what happened to mine as well as #3 & #4 cyl. leaking coolant. I'd do the precups while youre at it, theyre usually pretty f^&cked up. Roodogs has em for under 200bucks if youre willing to wait awhile. I polished mine up and ported them a tad. took all the sharp edges off from the milling/casting process. Good time to check the head for cracks and such anyways. Its not that big of a job while the engines's out.

As far as your turbo, should be fine, youll be able to get a stronger boost at top end without straining the turbo. Should come on 5-6psi around 1800 if your fuel's turned up a tad. Although it depends on the size of the exhaust housing among other factors. My exhaust housing seems fairly small compared to the turbo's on a 13bt so might be why I have such good response....

 

[cicak]

Thanx heaps for the info guys!! And an intercooler is most certainly going on
Now I've measured my RA and it's around .44 exhaust and .52 comp so does that mean it will help me more down low or up high? I found out that the turbo is off an arb kit for a 2.4lt diesel Aussie engine but I'm running the same turbo on my 2H and it's fine so I'm hoping it'll work for the 3B lol
Now, you need to teach me abit more about how I can see if my HG is in good condition and do you guys have any pics I can go off???
Thanx again for the info noone knows about 3B's in Australia!!! Hahaha

I would have thought a 2LT (2400cc) turbo kit would be way too small for a 3B (3431cc) by about 45% not that I know much about 2LT's as I do not rate them as a engine lol (sorry 2LT owners) surely it will run out of puff and limit your revs to like 2500 or maybe 3000 before the power dropps off dramatically.

 

[yotahed]

might not be a 2LT but a 2.4 Litre.
The exhaust and compressor numbers speak for the turbo, not necessarily the engine it came from. As said before the housings have a lot to do with the performance as well. If it's working well on a 2H with those numbers, should work pretty close on a 3b.
my .02

 

[buschmaster86]

what is metioned with;

"The exhaust and compressor numbers speak for the turbo, not necessarily the engine it came from. As said before the housings have a lot to do with the performance as well" ?


what means; " exhaust and compressor numbers speak for the turbo" ?
is that the diameter off the exhaust pipe and the size of the turbine wheel and housing of the exhaust side of the turbo you talking about ?


whoops:sorry for dummy questioning but ive alway,s been told stupid questions dont exist and english is not my 1e languisch)

Thanks for the info in advantage !

 

[3B power]

Also guys can someone post a photo of their engine bay so I can see where I have to mount my power steering reservoir
I'll be asking more questions soon when I get closer to stripping and rebuilding the motor and I'll be sure to keep you posted and post photos..
Cheers!!

 

[buschmaster86]

here ya go;

 

[cicak]

Also guys can someone post a photo of their engine bay so I can see where I have to mount my power steering reservoir
I'll be asking more questions soon when I get closer to stripping and rebuilding the motor and I'll be sure to keep you posted and post photos..
Cheers!!

You want LHD or RHD pics?

 

[yotahed]

In reference to your question about turbo A/R numbers..

The size and relation to the the compressor(intake) and turbine(exhaust) wheels directly affects how the turbo will respond on a given engine. usually as a loose(very loose) rule, the bigger the number, the longer spool time and higher boost level/CFM.

Also, the turbine and compressor housings have a lot to do with spool time and CFM. Again the bigger they are, the longer the spool up, and higher CFM.

This said, two different turbos can have the same AR ratios, but different compressor and exhaust housings, and will react very differently on the same engine.

For example, I had a supra CT26 with a .52exhaust and .62 compressor. I wasnt getting boost until 2800rpm with my foot down. The same turbo with the landcruiser exhaust housing (smaller) is used on the 13BT and makes boost around 1500rpm. The AR numbers were different between the two, but if you swapped the housings, i bet it wouldve worked better.

And then again, you CAN put the CT20 off of the 2LTE on a 3b and make boost VERY quickly, but you get to the turbo's limit very quickly as well because the 3b has no problem maxing it out. And turbos dont like to spin above their recommended boost level. things tend to get fooked.

Just because your boost guage reads 10 psi, doesnt necessarily mean youre getting optimum CFM. There's some math to it. there's others on this board who can actually explain the theory. Im more of a seat of the pants kinda guy. lol

 

[dall]

common

 

[3B power]

Thanks heaps for the photos and mines a RHD.
In regards to the turbo, there's a turbo joint not too far from my place but there all pricks in there and charge and arm and a leg if you walk in there without knowing anything about turbos, they pretty much just rip you off because they can lol I've done some research (and from the info you guys have given me) and I think I sort of half know what's going on lol so I might go and get their opinion as well just to see what ls available in parts wise as well because I still don't have an exhaust manifold.

 

[yotahed]

Sometimes you can find 13BT manifolds for around 400$CDN I got mine from a guy near me for that price. Same gasket. Only difference is, the two bolts/studs on the bottom center are a little longer so youll have to source those. And you should make a brace to hold up all the wieght of the turbo and downpipe/exhaust. the 13 bt comes with this as standard but they are a discontinued part. I have yet to make one myself. OR you can trace out your exhaust manifold mounting flange and turbo inlet flange and get a shop to build you a manifold...could be $$$ but maybe not

 

[Radd Cruisers]

The BJ73 has the 3B-II and it is not the same as the 3B and the 13B-T as far as the manifold goes.

With a "real" 3B on there you can use the 13B-T manifold, which are available in the afternarket but not as a genuine item anymore. We have access to these at a reasonable price, not sure what's available down under, but I'm sure you will be able to find something.

The 2LT-E or 2LT turbo will not work in the 3B, it's far too small. I have a friend who tried this and it was somewhat amusing when the turbo let go...

~John

 

[buschmaster86]

This is also a good company where i buy alot of good quality;

http://www.euro4x4parts.com/parts/mec1012-2152_exhaust_manifold.html

 

[3B power]

I've looked up the 13b-t exhaust manifold and I haven't seen one yet with a t3 flange. The turbo I have is a t3, still think its too small? If so then turboing the bj might go on hold for a while lol

 

[jb BJ73]

13bt manifold won't have a t3 flange, it will have one for the Toyota ct26 turbos, not sure if its the same as the 2lt turbo flange. T3s come in a lot of sizes, most are t3/t4 hybrids. If you're using a 13bt manifold you'll need an adapter to use a t3 turbo, or get a ct26 for it, search gbentink on the for, he makes custom modified ct26s. Unless you have a 3b II like radd cruisers said, then you'll need a custom manifold anyway

 

[yotahed]

What are the AR numbers on your turbo? anything around .45-.52 on the compressor and .42-.50 on the exhaust should be a close match. I have a T3 on my 3B and it works very well through the rev range. I get boost as low as 1200 rpm when I mat the pedal. usually 5-6psi by 1600 and builds to 15psi very quickly.
I do about 9psi cruising at 100kmh @ 750F on the EGT @ 2600rpm. Gearing and fuel settings have an effect as well. I used a 13BT manifold with a T3 adapter plate.