BJ60 rear heater hoses hookup & a few other Q's

[MrMoMo]

Ok, just picked up my '84 BJ60 and started going through the small list of minor fix-ups.

The rest of the story here;
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1712023#post1712023

OK, the list of questions...

#1 The PO mentioned that the rear heater was not working. It is not. I think I found why(see pic). Would I be correct in assuming that the red hose (very non factory looking) should go from "A" to "A" and the black factory hose should go from "B" to "B"? I assume this was done for a reason, so I will remove the rear heater and bench test/clean it before hooking it up again. The fan in it does work.

#2... what is the metal pipe (indicated with dashed blue arrow)? It seems to be "venting" a small amount of oil. I am not guessing that it is a front driveshaft lubricator, however it seems to do a good job of it. Is it supposed to be hooked up to something or is it a vent line?

#3. The tach is not working, I am assuming that either the sender is bad, or the wire has come off the sender. It is not erratic, it just does not work. The PO said it had been working up untill recently. Where is the sender located (I hear the bellhousing but more specifically where), and what colour wire should I be looking for going to it. -I checked the plug on the back of the gauge and it seems to be tight.

#4. The oil pressure gauge is the same, it does not move. I understand there is a seperate oil pressure switch that will shut off the engine if there is no oil pressure, and the PO drove it like this the entire time he had it - so I am not concerned that I have no oil pressure, but would like to get the gauge working again. Is the pressure sender for this on the passenger side of the engine block (there seem to be 2 senders there - close to the engine mount). Here also I checked the back of the gauge but it seems fine.

#5. Batteries need replacing. I read a thread here about what to avoid, and what people have had good luck with. I was at Costco today and the book states that I need two different batteries. This makes no sense at all to me, why not put two of the biggest batteries I can fit? More cranking amps the merrier...

Before y'all scream at me to get a manual... I have only had my 60 for a day now, so I don't have a manual yet & my 40 manual does not cover it. I do plan on picking up a manual for this. I have also done some searching but have not come up with the answers I was looking for.

THANKS!!

 

[cruiser_guy]

"A" to "A" and "B" to "B" would get coolant to the rear heater.

The tube is the crankcase ventilation tube. It is normally open.

The tach sender is on the bellhousing (drivers side I think). It's on the side and is a big nut 24mm with two wires coming out. It is not uncommon for the shop guys to bust the wires when doing a clutch job.

There are two oil pressure senders. One is very small and controls the EDIC and auto shut down on low oil pressure. The one for the gauge is larger (as big around as a pop can and maybe 1-2" high). It has one yellow wire to it.

As for batteries, get matched ones, or as close as possible and replace as a set.

 

[MrMoMo]

Thanks for verifying - it seemed pretty obvious to me where the hoses went, but you never know.

Should the crank case vent normally drip a bit of oil?

Is the EDIC oil pressure sender the rusted one with the red connector on it (in my pic) just ahead of the oil filter, and the gauge sender just ahead of it?

Will look more for the tach sender. -the PO did have the clutch done so that sounds like it might be the problem.

I plan on replacing both batteries, but want to make sure I get the right stuff the first time.

Thanks.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Should the crank case vent normally drip a bit of oil?

It shouldn't drip oil but it usually does a little.

Is the EDIC oil pressure sender the rusted one with the red connector on it (in my pic) just ahead of the oil filter, and the gauge sender just ahead of it?

Yes the one with the red connector is the EDIC one. The other is either in front or behind. Usually it has a rubber boot over it and a single wire to it.

 

[Rig of Mortis]

Pay close attention to the two hard lines which pass the coolant back and forth to your rear heater, a vehicle with pipes this old may probably have strong signs of wearing/cracking. I replaced my hard lines with hi-temp flexible hoses, as my hard lines were in such need of repair, they had fused together, had cracks and pinhole leaks throughout, a good way to cook an engine if not observed.

 

[MrMoMo]

I have a feeling this is why the rear heater was disconnected - I'll check it out - thanks.

Hey Rig of Mortis - you ever head east out of TO? - I'm near Kingston and just swiped my BJ60 from Scarborough.

I replaced my hard lines with hi-temp flexible hoses, as my hard lines were in such need of repair, they had fused together, had cracks and pinhole leaks throughout

 

[cruiser_guy]

I'm near Kingston and just swiped my BJ60 from Scarborough.

If you're in the rust belt, which it appears you are, I wouldn't use the under truck coolant lines either.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

tach sender

The tach sender is on the right hand side of the bellhousing. The harness runs from the left side of the engine bay, over the top of the belhousing and connects half-way down. 24 mm wrench is needed.

 

[ivanhoe]

I plan on replacing both batteries, but want to make sure I get the right stuff the first time.

Thanks.

side terminal batteries should be reversed to each other(positive connection on the inside of the engine compartment and the negative's on the outside). take a peek under the hood and you'll see what i mean. if the batteries are top mount terminals directly in the center then no reversal batteries required but very unlikely. the cables wouldn't be long enough!! so you will need reversed terminal batteries for top side & side terminals! make sure to get the same brand & size as they will be in a parallel connected for more amperage 12v power.

 

[MrMoMo]

you will need reversed terminal batteries

The lugs are pretty mashed up on both batteries, so I plan on installing new ones all round (might be harder on drivers side +) I was going to cut the lug off (cut wire at body ground), then make a short strap to go to from the negative post to the frame, same point where the current one goes. If I am doing this, and making a new wire to paralell the two positives, what difference does it make if I just get two of the same batteries- and install one backwards (top post)?

I can crimp up to 4/0 wire at work so installing these lugs should not be a big deal for me.

 

[83bj60]

If I am doing this, and making a new wire to paralell the two positives, what difference does it make if I just get two of the same batteries- and install one backwards (top post)?

[...]

I can crimp up to 4/0 wire at work so installing these lugs should not be a big deal for me.

Do yourself a favor and make your own cables using ultra flexible, super tough welding cable that will allow you to use any type of battery configuration (notice how stiff the OEM cable is?) and please don't just crimp, solder with rosin core solder only (I specify that because I've seen a guy end up corroding his cable to brittleness real quick using plumber's flux prior to soldering with plumber's solder - if the copper surfaces are not 100% clean, clean them, don't acid etch them unless you neutralize the acid prior to soldering, and do avoid using the stuff on the cable, it will will wick the acid in!).

If you intend to use batteries with standard posts, use brass marine type post clamp-on connectors, the type with the studs, much more durable and corrosion resistant, but replace the plated stud bolts and clamp bolts with stainless, preferably fine thread for much greater tightening force to compensate for the slipperiness of corrosion protecting slicone lube. Much better and vibration proof clamping with ease of removal. For your cable ends I suggest you use copper pipe of the same diameter as the cable, makes a perfect lug connector once squished flat, soldered and drilled.

I made my first and last set of cables on my first 60 like that and after that one was parted out I transferred them to my most recent 60 and after more than 10 years they are still as good looking as when I first made them, with just the occasional wire brushing.

Finally - pardon me if I haven't followed your thread - Check the battery trays, they're probably corroded. You can make some real nice ones out of ABS plastic from scraps of 4" diameter DWV plumbing pipe, just cut axially then put in oven at 250 for 10 minutes to soften. You can the flatten the rubbery stuff between two boards, voilà, once cooled, nice 1/4 inch ABS plastic sheet easy to cut with a power saw, shape with a heat gun and glue with simple plumber's glue, and best of all, 100% corrosion proof, good forever.

HTH,

Chris

 

[ivanhoe]

The lugs are pretty mashed up on both batteries, so I plan on installing new ones all round (might be harder on drivers side +) I was going to cut the lug off (cut wire at body ground), then make a short strap to go to from the negative post to the frame, same point where the current one goes. If I am doing this, and making a new wire to paralell the two positives, what difference does it make if I just get two of the same batteries- and install one backwards (top post)?

I can crimp up to 4/0 wire at work so installing these lugs should not be a big deal for me.

if the top terminal is closer to the sides, when reversed the terminal will be towards the front of the engine bay. the wire will be running across the battery. you can get reversed terminal batteries at no extra charge and will look OEM!
hth,
oh by the way, the fj40 sure has put the cruiser bug in you, lol!! good luck with the new addition!