best way to weld a cracked frame

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 24, 2004
Threads
75
Messages
261
Location
Williams Lake B.C.
I have a crack at the spring perch on one frame rail on my FJ 45 and have to use the truck next month to move some livestock. It's cracked all the way through the bottom and up the side. I've been told that it's beyond repair and I've been told it's an easy fix. I don't know who to believe. Can anyone tell me the best way to patch it . I've been told plates cut at 45s and welded on the sides will be much stronger than plates cut at 90s. Is that true. It only needs to last for a bit because I do have another frame to swap under as soon as the weather gets warmer and I can work in my carport again. pete
 
Please post a picture or two. I think I have a crack on a perch too, (on a 40).
 
Pete,

If I remember correctly, the Toyota factory spliced together the frame rails on the early 45 pickups to create a longbed frame. The splices were at about a 45 degree angle, somewhere near the emergency brake/driveline connection point. If you have an older pickup, go take a look at that point as to how they made the welds.
Hope this helps!
 
if your going to scab a plate on then yes, it would be better not to just have a straight vertical weld, what i would do is cut the ends in this shape <>
 
Any cracked frame can be repaired. When making custom frames they are often pieced together by welding various shapes of flat metal to get the desired shape. When welding the frame the most important thing is to make sure you have penetration of the weld all the way through the metal---so simply welding over the crack will not work. It is best to create a gap between two pieces being welding with a saw or grinder---usually want the gap to be about ½ metal thickness. When welding a frame in this manner the angle of the weld is not that important as making sure have good penetration---so you may want to practice on some metal of the same thickness to make sure your welding is set up correctly.
 
I would take the cutoff wheel to the cracked area & leave *about a ~1/16" & chamfer the opposing sides to be welded. Run a 1st pass, welder set moderately high to get a good burn in. Then, 2nd pass is when I'd turn up the welder & feather over the initial weld ~1/4" past the weld both sides. Depending on how severe (no pics were posted :confused: :rolleyes:) I'd plate over with diagonal pieces as mentioned above :D
 
Thanks for the replies. Sorry I didn't post a pic. I'll try to post one tomorrow . I have to clear a bit of snow away to get a pic. The only part of the channel that is not cracked right through is the top. I'm thinking that if I bevel both sides of the crack and weld that and then weld a plate that has the edges cut at 45s over top that should last until I have time for the frame swap.
 
Pete,

With only the top part of the channel holding, and cutting it at the other three sides, you may get some sagging of the frame at that point. Just make certain the frame is straight and levelled before you tack it or scab it all back together. Good luck!
 
Sorry it took so long for a photo but here is the best shot I could take. Passenger side frame rail crack. Like I said earlier I just need a quick fix so I can move some sheep . Hope to swap frames this summer but am in the middle of a diesel swap on a 60 also .
Thanks for the replies so far, Pete
TrukFrame1.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom