Battery and Alternator issues on a 99 100 series

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R

RoboDonkey713

Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Threads
2
Messages
6
Location
Maine
Last week while driving home from work in my 99 LC, my battery light came on. About 20 minutes later, my fuel system starts to shut down and I am stranded on the side of the road. Must need a new alternator. Got it towed to my house and had to order a new alternator. 3 days later, my new one showed up. Spent last Saturday putting it in. Before I went to start up the truck, I put my volt meter on my battery. It came up with 11.7 volts unloaded. That wasn't enough to start the truck, so I boosted my battery off a friends car. Truck started and ran for about 30 seconds and stopped. Re started it again, did the same thing. When I put my foot on the throttle, the engine will not rev up in RPM. This is what it did before it died on the side of the road.
I was talking with a mechanic friend of mine yesterday and he was telling me it sounded more like a bad battery than alternator. This being my daily driver, I went and bought a new battery last night. Installed it and the same thing was happening as before. I did have my wife start it while put my volt meter on the battery terminals. it went from 13.7 volts when started to 11.3 before it shut itself off. So this is showing me that the proper current is not coming back up from the new Alternator. So I did notice the 140 amp alternator fuse on the back of the positive Battery terminal looked blacked out a bit and the white Diode on the inside looks gone. Today I am picking one of those up from Toyota because they are the only ones who have them around here.
So if this doesn't fix my issue, where else should I look?
 
Replaced the 140 amp fuse. Truck still will not run. Other than replacing the wiring, anywhere else too look?
 
So it will run but die shortly there afterwards?
 
Maybe throttle position sensor? Have you checked for codes yet?
 
It does sound something related to air metering. Check your mass airflow sensor and I agree with @badlander, check the TPS
 
silverbullitt said:
Sounds like your alternator is bad. It's not charging the battery. Change it & you'll be fine
Click to expand...

Alternator is new.

I punted and towed to a garage. Probably something minor in the end, but sometimes you have to put a dollar amount on your time. And I am getting tired of a 35 mile round trip cycling commute each day.
 
Well you can buy a bad alternator. It can be the voltage regulator. Or the charge wire that comes the alternator that connects to the battery might be loose. Bad ground.
 
almost sounds like the fuel injection relay... you are running off the "start fuel" my guess is that if you cycled the key off and on several times then..... turn the engine over it would start every time then burn off the fuel then die... If all this was happening while being boosted off a known good battery then we could eliminate your battery and your Alt.

even though you have and can see your throttle cable coming up to your throttle body you are still fly by wire there is still a TPS that actually controls it all... I would check the connection and wires to it....
As it would do exactly what you describe if it was NOT hooked up! I know I've left one off before
 
So my mechanic called and told me that when the alterantor went, it took out most of the fuses and the fuse box with it. It now runs fine, but has no brake, tail and signal lights. Hoping to find a new/used fuse box at a decent price.
 
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