Build AZCA - 4 plus years of dust & belated build thread.

[Azca]

This has taken more than 4 years for me to get to this stage. I tore the rig apart the week of Thanksgiving 2020 believing I was going to have a few months off as I had retired, however life had other plans for me. Between teaching, some side work, children’s needs, and then an offer to join an engineering firm as a partner, my time rapidly evaporated. I have had approximately 20 days that I did not work each year since then. Work hours hit a peak of 121 hours per week with 80 to 100 work weeks being the norm. The old lady had to take a back seat to life again.

She languished between infrequent opportunities to wrench on her, sometimes months before I could take a day off or two and work on her. Something I thought I could have wrapped up in 3 to 4 months, agonizingly drug on and on. Worst yet, as time passed, the direction I originally wanted to take changed, some parts I thought I would use are now collecting dust. Felt like the last two years when I did wrench on her, I was rushing it just to get it done.

If you look at the list below, many of the parts I added were purchased up to 5 years ago as at least one of the suppliers is no longer in existence or the parts are no longer available.

It has been a bit frustrating as I wanted to get her back on the road but really tried not to rush it. Finally, a break, we decided to close our offices the week between Christmas and New Years this year and I got a full 7 days to work on her again. We had slowed (until the last 6 weeks anyway) and I was able to put in about 10 – 2-day weekends on her.

I will never undertake such a large amount of work at once on her unless I take it to one of the fine people who rebuild rigs on this site. I really regret not being able to get out and enjoy her, although wrenching on her has been therapeutic for me.

As always, a shout out to the IH8MUD Braintrust out there, you guys helped immensely whether you knew it or not.

So, without further ado, here is the list of items I completed through the refit, items I had already completed: and the to do items that will have to wait a bit.

• Re-powder coat 4xLabs front bumper
• Modify front bumper with new welded in light support bar (my fist attempt at welding)
• Replace paper clip power steering cooler with Wit’s end power steering cooler
• Notch front bumper to accept Wit’s end power steering oil cooler
• Fabricate new oil cooler skid plate
• New 3.5 inch Dobinsons C97-144VT front coils and C97-145VT rears
• New Dobinsons MRA shocks
• New Dobinsons front and rear pahnards
• New front hydro bump stops.
• New steering stabilizer
• New hood prop rod
• New hood and tailgate struts
• Baja Designs LP9s
• Relocate winch controller under the hood
• Add adaptive lighting brackets with KC pod lights
• Fabricate wire management bracket in battery compartment with 500A distribution block and fuse holders
• Install 2nd battery and tray
• Blue Sea battery control system
• Delta washer bottle relocate kit
• Delta battery control support bracket
• Remove most non-factory wiring and replace and reroute.
• Add Wit’s End QPM with Delta wire management
• Replace factory stereo with new head unit and amp.
• New speakers (not happy with how they perform)
• Fabricate mounting plate at rear console CD location for Blue Sea USB/12V outlets
• Blue see USB outlets in dash
• Install switch pros lighting controller
• Install Puma air compressor on LCP compressor mount
• Remove rear dust deflector and replace with LED light bar
• Add rock lights
• Add ditch lights on YodaTEQ ditch light brackets
• Add puddle lights at front doors
• Add Red and White LEDs on the interior of the rear hatch with touch dimmers
• Delta tailgate storage lid
• Delta attic storage rack
• Slee rear locker skid plate
• New window runs
• New window weather strips all around
• Replace all window motors and regulators
• Rebuild seatbelts with new webbing by Safety Restore
• Refurbish the steering wheel and added thumb supports
• New interior carpet (which I botched badly)
• Removed old hardened sound deadener from floor panels
• Dynamat, or Noico mat the entire interior (big difference!)
• Additional sound and thermal insulation throughout.
• Extended diff and transmission breather tubes
• Added oil catch can and bracket from Epic Cruisers
• Removed antilock braking system
• Fabricate new bracket for the winch controller and support for new brake lines
• Replace factory vacuum boosted brakes with a hydro boost system
• New PSC reservoir and mounting bracket to support the hydro boost.
• New Baer master cylinder
• LCP electric fan
• LCP HD Severe Duty Rear Sway Bar Links
• LCP rear window hatch
• Replace most dash trim and vents with new
• New instrument cluster cover
• New parking brake boot
• New ATS shift lever handle replacement
• Rear bump stop extension brackets
• Landtank rear extreme duty control arms
• Lantank DC front drive shaft.
• Clean about 2-lbs of dust and dirt from as much of the interior as possible, especially the quarter panels.
• New Grill from Landcruiser Grills (I really like it, not only looks good but beefy!)
• New Icon Rebound Pro wheels with Delta VS hub spacers
• New 315/70/17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/Ts
• New 2kw starter
• New TYC radiator (ToolsRus recommendation) & coolant hoses (all other hoses are less than 8 years old)
• New fan belts
• 90 degree oil filter adapter
• New spark plugs, wires, and cap
• New front fender seals
• New wits end windshield washer sprayer mod (to be completed)
• New passenger mirror (can’t find the DS)
• New side OEM passenger side marker (can’t find the DS)
• New turn signal lights
• New rear tail lights
• New Factor 55 winch fairlead and Flatlink shackle mount
• New AC condenser
• New water pump
• More small stuff that I can think of at this point.

Already done

• OME 2.5” lift (replaced with Dobinsons)
• 4xLabs front and rear bumpers
• White Knuckle sliders
• Smittybilt 12k winch
• Rebuilt engine and replaced almost everything under the hood 45k miles ago
• Photoman alternator bracket and Sequoia alternator
• Delta 4” radius arms
• Delta panhard bracket (replaced)
• Lseat front leather (would not buy again)
• New driver side foam cushion
• Fan Clutch mod
• Iron Pig trans/Xfr case skid
• Under drive and low range gear change for the xfr case.
• Hand throttle cable

Yet to do or thinking about it:

• New axle gearing (4:88s)
• Jump to 37” tires?
• Weld on the diff armor (sitting on the shelf now)
• Big brake kit? Will see after I play with the hydro boost a bit.
• Design a skid for the AC dryer.

 

[Azca]

I have learned quite a bit from trial and error, the Mud team, as well as doing the vast majority of the wrenching myself. It is cathartic for me to work on the old girl, just wish I had more time.

I brought the old girl home in August of 2010 with about 170k miles on the clock, she now has 245k. Bone stock LX, 3x locked, in pretty good condition. The interior was good; leather had no rips but was showing its age. Body was a good 7, wind deflector rubbed paint off on the hood, typical dings and the cladding had a few chips on it.

I knew I wanted an 80, wanted white and locked and looked for well over a year before I finally found it. What I did not know at the time was how much parts cost for these things. Got a rude awakening fairly quickly! I spoke a lot with @cruiserdan who educated me on what these rigs really are and what to expect.

Funds were tight when I started baselining so I cheeped out on parts. Big mistake. Over the last 5 years I have been removing all the inferior parts and going back to Mr. T products. What a difference. As most of know, these are not a great vehicle for those who are on a tight budget. Didn’t matter to me, I loved the 80 and was not going to back out of ownership. She was to be part of my family indefinitely if it killed me.

The first “off road” trip.

 

[Azca]

I started baselining the rig almost immediately. It seemed the PO had neglected maintenance over the last few years and it showed. First order of business was all new fluids and the dreaded front axle service. After that I began to tackle the multiple leaks, questionable workmanship, and replacing the old hoses as they were toast.

Once that was done and I began to trust her a bit more, I spent some time with her natural environment and let the old gal stretch her legs. Very mild wheeling but I was stoked – I had a Land Cruiser!

She had a saggy butt and wallowed over some bumps at highway speed that were unsettling. So, I reached out to Slee and they had me set up with a 2- inch OME lift. That lift firmed things up and it felt like a different vehicle. The one complaint – it was too stiff, especially off road. Driving fast was not an option as it really beat on you. Now, I am not Speed Racer, but I don’t drive slow. I had a 2001 Ford Expedition that would hand the Cruiser its hat driving on washboard roads or on anything that was somewhat mild. So that was my only disappointment to this point.

 

[Azca]

Next was to put proper tires on it. Went to trusty old craigslist and bought a set of used wheels with 35” Toyo MTs. I did not notice that one of the wheels was seriously buggered up on the inside of the wheel, possibly from a loose or failed lug nuts. I took it to a machine shop and they took 5 thousandths off each wheel to clean them up. The Toyos, as everyone knows, are heavy but they are a beast of a tire. Bad part, they are so stiff, they didn’t flex well when aired down.

I ran these tires and wheels for about a year or so and decided to change to Pro-Comp Xtreem Terrain mud tires. I was impressed by how good an all-around tire they were and went through two sets. That, and the price (at the time) were difficult to beat. These tires flexed very well and took the jagged Arizona rocks with just a little chunking. Too bad they are no longer manufactured.

Tires obviously made a big difference in the dirt and began to “wheel” the rig. What I thought was difficult terrain was really like the kiddie rides at Disneyland. I needed to learn the rig and its capabilities, so I joined Copper State Cruisers, what a great bunch of people!

 

[Azca]

So, as I got to figure out how to properly use the “war truck” (my kids friends named her), I quickly realized that I could get myself into trouble out in the middle of nowhere. A winch was needed, but again, funds were tight. I turned to Harbor Freight and installed an in bumper 12k winch. Only used it once to assist in recovering my son’s Taco which he had rolled. Used rattle can bedliner to paint the pretty scratched up bumper and hide some small dings.

 

[Azca]

From there, I wanted more light. The KC daylighters are great but wanted more light across the spectrum so I bought a cheap light bar and relocated the daylighters to inside the bumper. Also added some small LEDs to the wings in the bumper. Not the best-looking setup but I was very pleased with the light output.

 

[Azca]

After that exchanged the front and rear bumpers for the 4xLabs bumpers. Played with it that way for a couple of years and then - the opportunity. I retired and was doing light work, about 20 hours a week and teaching codes in the evenings a couple of nights a week. Decided to set the rig up the way I wanted and tear it down for a refit as I thought I was going to have some considerable time on my hands but, the Lord had other ideas. About 2 months in I started getting busy and up to 40 hours a week. A couple of moths later I was doing 60 hours a week and now, 80 to as much as 120 hours a week as a partner in an engineering firm. So much for retirement and now the old girl just took up space in the garage and collected dust. It was frustrating to see and even worse not being able to take my girl out on dates.

Before the tear down.

 

[Azca]

So after ripping the interior out, installed Noico and Dynamat sound deadening mats. New insulation top and bottom and mass backed carpet. The mass backed carpet was a mistake, after 4 years - still smells oily. That and I mucked it up pretty bad. Will buy new and have someone else install it.

I then added 2 - LP9 Baja Designs lights to the 4xLabs front bumper. I thought of 3 – LP6s but was concerned about blocking too much air flow since I am in the desert. Also wanted to push the lights back of the front hoop for more protection. Another concern for me was I didn’t want to see the lights from the driver’s seat, so I kept the bracket as low as possible. I created a template and drew up some CAD plans for Send Cut Send to cut up for me.

Broke out the welder that has been sitting in my garage unused since I bought it three years ago. Did some practice runs on scraps I had and found out quickly that I suck at welding. More accurately, suck at setting up the machine. So kept playing with it and got to the point I was satisfied with what I was doing. I then started on putting the parts together, smoothed out the welds to make it look nice. After that, I ran the wiring through the bumper’s tubing to conceal it. Overall, not bad and pleased with the way it turned out.

For the grill, I replaced my old cracked and faded one with one from Kelly at land cruiser grilles - https://landcruisergrilles.com/. Very sturdy and well built, love it. I wanted to blend the looks of the grill into the headlights, so I used chrome powder coat under a black crinkle powder coat. Not overly impressed with chrome, will probably remove it and get it chromed later.

I also installed the Wits-End (I know) power steering fluid cooler at this time. Problem I did not foresee was the conflict with the Labs bumper, so I had to mod the bumper slightly to clearance it.

 

[Azca]

Second issue, as you can see, is that the cooler was exposed. Wanting to protect it I went to my trusty, okay it is not trusty but works, AutoCad to design a skid plate and sent out to Send Cut Send. I somehow managed to measure incorrectly on a couple of holes and drilled new to connect to existing mounting points on the back side of the cooler. Overall, I am very pleased with it. Now I just need to design a skid to protect the AC dryer. I have pushed it up but it still dangles like the Saint Bernard salivating from the movie; The Sand Lot.

 

[Azca]

New lighting

In addition to the LP9s I also added some knuckle lights with KC Pod lights. Kind of a gimmick but they do what they are supposed to do. I would do it again as I never think there is enough light.

I added two ditch lights using YodaTEQ mirror brackets and some cheapo Amazon work lights. With the LP9 side lights, the ditch lights, and the cornering lights, I have more than enough light going forward. Very pleased with the BDs and highly recommend them.

Going backward was still a problem in the dark even with the upgraded LED reverse lights I had. I decided to ditch the rear dust deflector and use the mounting brackets to support a new LED combination flood/driving light bar. The dust deflector mounts were not installed square by Mr. T presenting the first issue. I made some spacers out of round aluminum stock that were cut on a biased to compensate. I did not modify the wind deflector brackets in case I wanted to revert back.

I added 8 rock lights and they put light where I want and double as high intensity puddle lights. Oh, added two of those to the front doors as well that work with the courtesy lights. Nice easy little add. One huge item on the rock lights: when aiming my knuckle lights, switched these on and wow, I can see while under the rig at night! They might have been a fad but wow, just do it!

I couldn’t neglect the interior completely, so I added some red and white LEDs to the rear hatch lid. Put them on touch dimmers for mood lighting and fighting the insects, very pleased with the results.

 

[Azca]

Dual battery setup and cleanup.

I wanted to clean up the wiring in the battery compartment. Did not like the looks of so many cables connecting to the battery posts so I designed another bracket to hold a 500A distribution block, a 300A copper bus, and two fuse holders. One is for the future (I don’t know what) the other is routed to the Wits-end QPM with the switch pros controller. You can see some of the terminal lug sticking out of the fuse holder, I removed it after this photo and extended the heat shrink so there was no exposed metal. Designed the bracket in CAD and sent that to Send Cut Send to cut and bend in stainless; I really like their service!

Still not happy with the terminal cover on the positive side of the battery, need to work that out. I also originally planned to use the LCP battery hold down brackets but, with the larger batteries, just couldn’t make them work.

I am also a bit paranoid so I put edge guard on anything even remotely close to wiring. I also added nylon loom and, in some cases, added double layer heat shrink over that just for the warm and fuzzys. Yes overkill but I hope to never have an issue from something I installed.

 

[Azca]

Lift

Traded in the OME lift for a new Dobinsons 3.5” long travel set up with their MRA adjustible shocks. As stated before, the OMEs did their job but were too firm a ride for me. So I went with the new Dobisons.

First impressions with very limited driving. If you like sports cars and expect this lift to allow you to corner like one, you are in for a rude awakening. This setup soaks up bumps like a fat kid eats Twix. Okay, I have not run her in the dirt yet but, hit a few pretty good dips and run up and down a couple of curbs, it soaks these up with little notice. This suspension is much smoother. The ride, for what I wanted, is significantly softer but, it is a bit unsettled in doing so. I am really looking forward to getting her into the outback and setting up the shocks to see how I can control it.

So far I am pleased but, even with the limited driving experience, I think I may have to bump to a HD rear swaybar. She really leans going around corners.

Now the bad. This was much more lift than the 2” OMEs. I expected about to add another 1.5” of height. Nope, they are a solid 2.5 inches taller. With that hight comes the drive line issues.

Measurements fender to center of hub:

• Old 2” with front spacers: OME – Front: 21.5, Rear: 22
• Dobinsons: Front 24, Rear: 24.5

Added a Landtank front DC drive shaft. Very good product but, that made things worse - scratching my head trying to figure that out. I just ordered the 3” springs and adjustable rear upper links to see how that works. Hope to install this over the Thanksgiving holiday.

Before OME 2.5” lift with 1” poly spacers up front.

And after:

 

[Azca]

Hydro boost Install

I was sick and tired of feeling like Fred Flinstone trying to stop this beast going downhill. The last time was on Devil’s Staircase on Broken Arrow in Sedona. This decent is not terribly steep but, after a darn near horrifying experience trying to slow the beast, I had had it.

We all know of the issues regarding bleeding our braking systems. I had tried multiple methods using literally gallons of fluid trying to get all the air out, all to no avail. Even brought it into a local Toyota dealer where the tech had experience with the 80s. No improvement; zip, zilch, nada. I am done. Time for a Hydro boost conversion.

I purchased the hydro boost from Sweeting Performance about 5 years ago. Fair Warning: Do not buy from him, there are several other vendors who have much better customer service and delivery. Customer service from them is non-existent and I have read some horror stories of people waiting for their systems for months or even a year or more.

There are several good threads on these installs, so I won’t get into the install of the system but will give you the highlights. I deleted the cursed anti-lock system and utilized the space to accommodate a relocated winch controller, coil, and added brackets to support the new brake lines. As usual, I would change some items if I had to do it over again but, overall, it is not bad.

I used a Baer brake master cylinder with proportioning valve. Tidy package but, reaching the proportioning valve is a pain. I must use a socket and extension to get to it. I also had to cut the threaded rod to the brake pedal so I could get proper travel on it.

I first tried to use the stock reservoir but ran into aeration issues immediately. Sweeting provides a “T” to tap into the low-pressure side hoses. Between that and another filter I added to protect the system; it could not flow enough. Contacted PSC and they set me up with a new reservoir with an internal filter and a dedicated low-pressure port for the booster. To connect the system I used larger radiused AN fittings with a larger internal diameter for all connections. Problem solved! I designed a new bracket to support the unit and sent it out to SCS for them to fab it up.

First impressions of the hydro brakes are that they are bit stiff, high pedal pressure but nothing too concerning. I may bump back to a 1” unit instead of the 1 1/8” but will wait to decide till after I live with it for a while. Stopping has improved. I need to finish setting up the brake bias, however I am pleased with what I am seeing. On one very short downhill section, she held fine. That was just on a construction site and was not a true trip, I need to spend time with it to really get a handle on how well it performs. If I am not happy with it, I will go with a big brake kit on top of it.

 

[sjpitts]

I really like what you have done, but let's face it --- it is a bit of a rough draft.

So here is what I will do for you, I will trade you my bone stock 97 for your less stock 97-- straight across---and then you can do it all again. I am guessing the second build will turn out even better than the first. And it probably won't take you four years this time.

Sound like a Deal ?????

Let me know when you are ready to make the swap

 

[sjpitts]

And as I told you when I saw it, that back up light in place of wind deflector is a brilliant idea (is that a pun?). You should start selling those little brackets you made now that you have more spare time.

 

[Azca]

I really like what you have done, but let's face it --- it is a bit of a rough draft.

So here is what I will do for you, I will trade you my bone stock 97 for your less stock 97-- straight across---and then you can do it all again. I am guessing the second build will turn out even better than the first. And it probably won't take you four years this time.

Sound like a Deal ?????

Let me know when you are ready to make the swap

View attachment 4023048

Hmmmm - - tempting but two problems - Waaay too nice to wheel and it is the wrong color!

 

[Azca]

And as I told you when I saw it, that back up light in place of wind deflector is a brilliant idea (is that a pun?). You should start selling those little brackets you made now that you have more spare time.

I have a feeling that the port installed dust deflector mounting points differ slightly from rig to rig so a one size fits all probably wont work. But, they are easy to make. 1-1/2 round aluminum cut to size, with the right angles. Drill out the center and powder coat. After that, some 1/8" aluminum stock cut to size to cover the deflector openings and bent to match the radius on the mount. Use all new custom cut gasket material to install. Not too hard. It was much harder getting the wire though the top and drilling out a new hole for a strain relief connector for the wire. As the interior was stripped, getting the wiring to the switchpro controler on the QPM was easy.

 

[sjpitts]

Hydro boost Install

I first tried to use the stock reservoir but ran into aeration issues immediately. Sweeting provides a “T” to tap into the low-pressure side hoses. Between that and another filter I added to protect the system; it could not flow enough. Contacted PSC and they set me up with a new reservoir with an internal filter and a dedicated low-pressure port for the booster. To connect the system I used larger radiused AN fittings with a larger internal diameter for all connections. Problem solved! I designed a new bracket to support the unit and sent it out to SCS for them to fab it up.

So in hindsight do you think the aeration issues could be solved without the fancy new power steering reservoir? That reservoir looks nice, but pricey.

 

[Azca]

So in hindsight do you think the aeration issues could be solved without the fancy new power steering reservoir? That reservoir looks nice, but pricey.

I am sue there may be a way but, from others here, this is the best solution I could find.. There may be some plumbing hacks that might have worked but simple is better IMO.

 

[Azca]

Got back under the rig a couple of weeks ago and tried some different combinations for lift and drive shaft setups. The end result: 3" lift, 3L Delta arms and adjustable upper rear links cured the drive shaft grumbling after I removed the DC front shaft and reinstalled the factory shaft. See spreadsheet below with information.

EDIT: added screenshot, the spreadsheet did not copy correctly.

Lift

Front Panhard

Rear Panhard

Fender

Drive Shaft/U-joint Angles

Dobinsons Springs

Notes

Bottom

Top

Difference

Bottom

Top

Difference

PF

PR

DF

DR

Front

Rear

Front

Rear

OME 2"

21.5"

22"

Included front 20MM Spacer - No noise, DSs were happy.

3-1/2" Long Travel

16-7/8"

21-1/2"

4-5/8"

17-7/8"

23-5/16"

5-7/16"

23-11/16

24-1/8"

23-5/8"

24-3/8"

Stock Shaft, 4" Delta Arms - Stock DS grumbling under deceleration.

3-1/2" Long Travel

16-7/8"

21-1/2"

4-5/8"

17-7/8"

23-5/16"

5-7/16"

23-11/16

24-1/8"

23-5/8"

24-3/8"

2.9°

8.8°

C97-144VT

C97-145VT

4" Delta Arms, Front DC Shaft - Grumble louder and continuous

3-1/2" Long Travel

16-7/8"

21-3/8"

4-1/2"

NA

NA

NA

NA

NA

NA

NA

1.4°

8.9°

C97-144VT

C97-145VT

3L Delta Arms, Front DC Shaft - Grumble still there, slightly less pronounced.

3" Flexi

17-3/16

20-1/8"

3-15/16"

18"

22-5/8"

4-5/8"

22-1/2"

23-1/2"

22-1/2"

0.13

1.35°

.02°

C59-612V

C59-613V

3L Delta Arms, Front DC Shaft. Added Adj upper arms - DS still not happy

3" Flexi

17-3/16

20-1/8"

3-15/16"

18"

22-5/8"

4-5/8"

22-1/2"

23-1/2"

22-1/2"

0.13

.07°

.02°

C59-612V

C59-613V

3L Delta Arms, Factory DS. Added Adj upper arms - Grumble gone!