Axle Help (1 Viewer)

[freddydt]

My pops and I have gone in together on a until it's trailer that's being modified to use for weekend camping. The builder can't seem to find an axle with a hub that will match my rig's hubs. I have a GX470. 6 on 5.5 lug pattern. Really would like it to match and I've seen it on several trailers. Any help here?

Thanks!

 

[greentruck]

Southwest Trailer Parts has two (different bearings sizes) listed here: Trailer Hub Kits

 

[titanpat57]

Are your wheels hub centric or lug centric?

 

[greentruck]

Are your wheels hub centric or lug centric?

While we're on this topic...

I'm running Toyota steelies on the truck and swapped the last of my original alloys onto the M101 after we bought it. The trailer PO converted the trailer to the standard LC pattern, but was running a pair of IIRC FJ60 rims on it. Don't recall exactly, but guessing those were lugcentric with acorn nuts. The rims on truck and trailer both have the appropriate styles for the rim, acorn for the truck/steelies and shank style for the trailer/alloys.

We've had the trailer out on one long trip since I got it back on the road, then around town for chores, etc. Have noticed no problems.

The question being, the alloy trailer rims are hubcentric, so should I be running a spacer to center them? Just wanted to verify this is not needed...or is it? Which may be the point of your question to the OP here.

This can be a matter of some confusion: keep those special lug nuts!!

 

[titanpat57]

While we're on this topic...

I'm running Toyota steelies on the truck and swapped the last of my original alloys onto the M101 after we bought it. The trailer PO converted the trailer to the standard LC pattern, but was running a pair of IIRC FJ60 rims on it. Don't recall exactly, but guessing those were lugcentric with acorn nuts. The rims on truck and trailer both have the appropriate styles for the rim, acorn for the truck/steelies and shank style for the trailer/alloys.

We've had the trailer out on one long trip since I got it back on the road, then around town for chores, etc. Have noticed no problems.

The question being, the alloy trailer rims are hubcentric, so should I be running a spacer to center them? Just wanted to verify this is not needed...or is it? Which may be the point of your question to the OP here.

This can be a matter of some confusion: keep those special lug nuts!!

I would run something like a Spidertrax...I personally think if the rim is hub centric, you should maintain the same level of safety that's on the TV. I do realize there's folks out there Mike ,who run lug centric on hub centric, or visa versa, but it's not a game I want to take a chance on. I think there's enough that can wrong while towing, without adding anything else to the mix.

 

[greentruck]

OK, I buy that. I've heard it both ways, OK and not-OK, but thanks for explaining it enough to help me understand the choices.

So, how thick is one of these Spider-thingees? Guessing not too thick or you'd have to go to longer lugs, which seems problematic to me as a solution.

Cost is another factor. I presume (maybe not a good thing) that my Toyota steelies are lug-centric and self-center with the correct acron nuts and once I add 3 of them (2 for the trailer and one to upgrade my spare on an alloy) to the mix, then no need for the Spidertrax. Maybe I'd just be better off putting the Spider-$$ towards the rims that obviate the need for Spidee stuff?

 

[titanpat57]

SpiderTrax are 1.250 thick.....billet aluminum, about $100 a pair. You can find them used on Tacomaworld and T4R.org for half price, used.

 

[greentruck]

OK, I could live with the extra width. The tread would still be covered by the fenders. But sound like I'd almost have to get longer studs. Add all that up and it about covers the cost of one of those nice 16x8 steelies. I think my plan is going to be replace the alloy rims with those lugcentric ones, keeping it around town in the meantime.

 

[titanpat57]

I don't think....there recessed, and the studs sticking out of the spacer are the same as factory. Spidertrax come with there own lug nuts.

 

[greentruck]

OK, then lugs aren't an issue. Still would rather keep the trailer on a short leash until I can get the proper wheels under it than spend my limited budget on something that will be just a temp fix. I'm with you on running the Spidertrax if I was keeping the alloys, though.

 

[ntsqd]

It's not like the wheel is going to fall off if it is hub-centric and you're using it lug-centric. It is not an inherently more or less safe design. It's just not going to be as concentric to the wheel bearings as perhaps it could be.

I've about concluded that hub-centric came about as a ride quality thing with the OEM's, I have not found any other reason for the change. Better concentricity of the wheels means less vibration input into the suspension so less transmitted to the occupants.

 

[greentruck]

I'd be more worried about such a set-up without a Spidertrax (or similar) on a tow vehicle, where the driven axles have a chance to torque the entire wheel back and forth against the studs, tending to loosen them. On a trailer, you don't have that. But we have plans for some trekking that may involve lots of washboard roads, which can set up similar, if more irregular forces. I used to be in trucking, where seeing a wheel pass your vehicle is never a good sign, especially when it came off your trailer...

 

[ntsqd]

If the lugs are in good shape and the lug nuts are tightened something close to correctly then the clamp load of the wheel to the WMS on the trailer's hub won't let the wheel move around. Same thing as with a flywheel, those bolts aren't supposed to be in shear as they're nowhere close to strong enough for that. Power transmission takes place thru the friction from tightly clamping the flywheel to the crank flange.

I get wanting it to be right, but don't let that scare you into unreasonable possible conclusions from it not being as the OEM's designed it. If possible for my own stuff I'd set up the drill press with a stop and add the 60° seats for lug-centric nuts to all of the wheels. Then run them hub centric or lug centric according to what the hub's design is.

 

[greentruck]

Not scared, just cautious. It's been on a 1,000 mile road trip as the inaugural run once I had it together. Between repacked wheel bearings and the varying opinions on hub vs lug issues, I just kept an eye on things. Really, that's all that's needed. Problem is that people get a trailer set-up right, the proceed to ignore it. Having been in heavy trucks in a previous career, you deal with that with a good PM program for your trailers, because you can't count on drivers paying close attention once they get past the fifth-wheel.

In this case, it's one trailer and simply needs to be remembered. A daily walkaround on the road is pretty much my habit, whether it's 53' or 6' long. Even after I get the wheels set-up the way I want them, I'll be doing that anyway. It's always a good idea, even if you're sure it was fine yesterday.

 

[NMBruce]

I had this same problem and had to add spacer/adapter to go from a 5x5 to a 6x5.5. The new spacer are hub centric, but the spacers I got use Toyota/Lexus wheel nuts that set inside the nut opening, not on it. I guess I could look for a center ring. So far I have driven over 2000 miles and the trail pulls great and the wheels have not loosen up. The wheels are from a 2015 4Runner.

 

[ntsqd]

An angle that I hadn't considered, I will say that you have to go with what the wheels are set-up for. If they do not have tapered seats for the lug nuts then I'd call hub centric a requirement unless you can machine them to have tapered seats.