Axel seals on an 80? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 22, 2009
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Location
Colorado Springs
Anyone have any experience replacing the axel seals on the front axel on a 96 FZj80? I knew when I bought it that they would need replaced eventually but after getting back from Grand Junction this weekend, the drivers side is just puking grease all over everywhere. Shop estimated the job at $800 but not much in parts, mostly just labor. After the problems i've already had I want to do this one myself but I need to know what parts to buy, what tools i'll need and if anyone wants to help:wrench::beer::wrench::beer::hillbilly:. Any suggestions?
Thanks
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Ahhhh....

The infamous knuckle rebuild. Own any solid axle toyota and this will be in your future.

Not a difficult job. There are probably a million write ups on how do do this. Check the 80 section FAQ.

Parts don't cost much, but it is a lot of work and is terribly, terribly messy.
 
Wish I could help, I just have too many projects of my own. There should be plenty of web support and maybe even a Haynes manual will cover that. not very difficult, but like Mark said, keep a whole roll of paper towels handy.

I've never taken an 80 axle apart, but I know the mini trucks have a pretty big spindle nut that can be difficult to locate a socket for. The socket I use is homemade. Some people just beat that nut off with a chisel or old screwdriver, but I just can't do that to my rig. That should be the only special tool you need.

B.T.W. what did you ever find to be the problem with the truck when it died on MLK drive after you got it back from Rey?
 
B.T.W. what did you ever find to be the problem with the truck when it died on MLK drive after you got it back from Rey?

Yeah, I'll tell the whole story at the next meeting, but basically the entire wire harness from the Computer to everything (spinal cord basically) dropped down and came in contact with the EGR vent tube to the exhaust causing the insulation to melt and the wires to short out. The short was only replicated when the engine was hot and was put under a load. Not much for parts but cost me over $600 in labor to re-wire everything in the harness (way over my head). :meh:

Now the axle seal just to add insult to injury!
 
Bummer about the wire harness. I read about that on the forum and tied mine back to keep it away from the exhaust heat.

I did an axle rebuild on mine about a year and a half ago. I have copies of the relevant shop manuals, factory that is, so I can let you make copies. If anyone ever recommends you a Haynes or Chilton they are not your friend, shoot them where they stand :hillbilly:

There are write ups with pics on the axle rebuild on the forum. I did all the axle seals, bearings, new rotors and pads for about $500 in parts (C-Dan pricing). Consider what may be original in there that you may as well replace. Call C-Dan he will get you set up with everything.

This link is in the FAQ
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq.html
 
Charlie Low At Liberty North Toyota Gives Colorado Land Cruiser members a discount on parts and he's pretty darn knowledgeable!

Hanes and chiltons may not be the best manuals out there, but they have saved my bacon more than a few times!!! AND I spent big money to get A "factory" manual and it din't cover what I needed at the time, Now days I find the ol' Google is the BEST source for info, pics, "how to's" ,

Mark is correct, MESSY! The hardest part is cleaning everything, Lots and lots of rags or paper towels! did I say lots?

Anyhow, I believe I have the socket needed for the hub nut, you are welcome to borrow mine, but just FYI i got mine from Charlie at Liberty and if I remember correctly it was less than $20 bucks.

You MAY need a snap ring plier also, It's been awhile since I tore one down, If you do I have those also.

Let us know when you are planning on doing this, I might be able to stop by and help.
 
Thanks! Yeah, I saw C-Dan's name all over the write-ups in the 80 section but what is his number? Can I get by without doing the rotors and brakes now? Also I was reading several different threads and heard stories of birf grease getting into the diff, and diff oil getting into the birf. I'll have to check the diff fluid level tomorrow but from the photos does it look like the two are mixing? How desperate is the situation if I can't get to it for a week or so?

Leon, I would appreciate the manuals and any info. I can come pick them up or get them at the next meeting. I have both the Haynes and Chilton, I just haven't bothered to look at them yet.
 
I'm not an expert but it looks to me like your gear oil has contaminated the grease. Which leads to your second question on driving, I would minimize it, that grease now has reduced lubricating capacity. That grease, when new, is thick and sticky. my 2 cents. Your more than welcome to borrow the manual pages, I don't have the entire shop manual, I got copies of the appropriate sections from the Lexus dearship, they are so willing to please :grinpimp: Glad you're reading the forum, lots of good info in that faq. When you get closer let me know and I can give you some tips that worked for me and I may be able to lend a hand. I have the hub tool and snap ring pliers you can borrow as well.

Thing about the rotors is the bearing races need to be replaced if you do bearings, or at least I would. You may be able to find non-Toyota bearings (Timken or others) a bit cheaper, again on the forum somewhere. Autozone loans a race seating tool that was awesome, highly recommend getting that for the job. You can use it for the inner axle seal by turning it over.

C-Dan aka Dan Busey (866) 591-4837 at American Toyota in Albuquerque. His knowledge base on Cruisers is truly incredible.
 
Ryan, if you pick a day I will try to make it. I can't commit to anything right now, just how life is at the moment.

This is almost an initiation rite for solid axle toyota owners.
 
Been there done that. Read the FAQ in the 80s section.

In terms of tools - beyond the basics you will need the hub socket, seal puller

Nice to have - brass hammer & drift (got mine @ Harbor Freight - you need this if you're going to replace the bearings), seal & bearing seating tool, bearing packer.

Really nice to have - parts washer!

Have you noticed any clicking from the front end? It will usually happen if you hit the gas from a stop with the wheels turned hard. This indicates worn birfields. If it does it now, it may or may not mean much, given the current condition of your grease. You can buy some more time on worn birfields by swapping sides.

While you're in there for the axle seals, you will be repacking the wheel bearings and trunnion bearings. When I did mine at about 160K, I replaced all the bearings and races. Wheel bearings were probably fine, but my trunnion bearings were definitely on their way out.

I've heard many people swear by the axle seals from Marlin Crawler vs. OEM. I hadn't heard that at the time and went OEM.

No reason to replace the rotors now if they're in good shape. But you'll have to go all the way back in there if you need to replace them down the line.

As others have said, it's a really messy & time consuming job. But not all that difficult. Took me the better part of 3 days, but I went all out and ran into a few snags and some rain. I swapped sides on the birfs, replaced the rotors and calipers, replaced all the bearings, etc.

I would buy the parts from CDan, or Man-a-Fre has a kit. Then you get everything you need.

I have the hub socket if you want to borrow it. I even know where it is! I also have the DVD that somebody in the 80 section put together showing the job - not critical, but helps you get a feel for what's going on before you tear into it. I may know where that is.

And finally, I may be able to stop by and help a bit, depending on when you go at it. I think we're relatively close - I'm in the S. end of black forest.
 
Yeah, I'll tell the whole story at the next meeting, but basically the entire wire harness from the Computer to everything (spinal cord basically) dropped down and came in contact with the EGR vent tube to the exhaust causing the insulation to melt and the wires to short out. The short was only replicated when the engine was hot and was put under a load. Not much for parts but cost me over $600 in labor to re-wire everything in the harness (way over my head). :meh:

Now the axle seal just to add insult to injury!

Ugh - I've heard of that as well. Been meaning to do something against that possibility on my truck.
 
Ugh - I've heard of that as well. Been meaning to do something against that possibility on my truck.
Wish I'd heard of it before it happened, lots of stress over repair bills this month! Next time I see you I'll show you exactly where it happened and the stupid little plastic clip that broke and caused the whole mess.:mad:
 
You are gonna need a snap ring pliers as well.

Also pick up a box of disposable nutrile gloves.

Thanks! I'll probably do the job up in Denver at the In-laws. Wife's dad is an airplane mechanic and has every tool and technique under the sun including an industrial parts washer! I'll run a list of tools past him and start borrowing anyhting I'll need that he doesn't have.

Eric, it has been making that clicking sound you described for a little while now, shortly before the grease started really running out. How much are a set of birfields and should I order them in advance or would that be something I could pick up in the middle of the job?
 
Thanks! I'll probably do the job up in Denver at the In-laws. Wife's dad is an airplane mechanic and has every tool and technique under the sun including an industrial parts washer! I'll run a list of tools past him and start borrowing anyhting I'll need that he doesn't have.

Eric, it has been making that clicking sound you described for a little while now, shortly before the grease started really running out. How much are a set of birfields and should I order them in advance or would that be something I could pick up in the middle of the job?

Birfields are pretty pricey - I think they're on the order of $200 to $300 each for aftermarket from man-a-fre, slee, etc. Not sure how much the OEM units are.

Many folks have good results with swapping sides. It makes them wear against the opposite side - that will make more sense when you get in there and see it. Swapping sides on mine eliminated the clicking, though I only ran them about 15K miles before I swapped axles. If money is tight right now, I'd seriously consider it.

But if you are going to replace them, I'd order them now. I wouldn't count on local dealers to have them in stock, and there's really nothing you're going to see in there that will tell you whether you should replace them or not. The clicking tells you that.

You'll love that parts washer for this job!
 
If you decide to have a professional do the job, I recommend you call Don at Bear Automotive, 3470 Chelton Loop North Unit G, Colorado Springs, 591-5700. Don was a charter member of CLC and is a Toyota guy. He works on 80s routinely.
 
Ryan,

I was going to do the rebuild on my front axle a while back and walked in to see CDAN. He boxed up all the parts to rebuild the front axle of my 80. I beleive that it was around $350 for the parts. I never installed them. If you are interested I'll dig them out of the garage.

David
 
Ryan,

I was going to do the rebuild on my front axle a while back and walked in to see CDAN. He boxed up all the parts to rebuild the front axle of my 80. I beleive that it was around $350 for the parts. I never installed them. If you are interested I'll dig them out of the garage.

David
Ohh no! I ordered the parts kit from him on Monday, should be getting them today or tomorrow! But if for some reason I'm missing something can I give you a call? Thanks for the offer!

Sounds like I'll be driving up to denver saturday night and tearing into it in my in-laws garage, hopefully finishing sometime sunday. Leon or Eric, any chance I could borrow the hub-socket and those service manual pages? I could pick them up tomorrow or on Friday and get them back to you next week. Send me a PM and I'll call to get directions.
 
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