Been there done that. Read the FAQ in the 80s section.
In terms of tools - beyond the basics you will need the hub socket, seal puller
Nice to have - brass hammer & drift (got mine @ Harbor Freight - you need this if you're going to replace the bearings), seal & bearing seating tool, bearing packer.
Really nice to have - parts washer!
Have you noticed any clicking from the front end? It will usually happen if you hit the gas from a stop with the wheels turned hard. This indicates worn birfields. If it does it now, it may or may not mean much, given the current condition of your grease. You can buy some more time on worn birfields by swapping sides.
While you're in there for the axle seals, you will be repacking the wheel bearings and trunnion bearings. When I did mine at about 160K, I replaced all the bearings and races. Wheel bearings were probably fine, but my trunnion bearings were definitely on their way out.
I've heard many people swear by the axle seals from Marlin Crawler vs. OEM. I hadn't heard that at the time and went OEM.
No reason to replace the rotors now if they're in good shape. But you'll have to go all the way back in there if you need to replace them down the line.
As others have said, it's a really messy & time consuming job. But not all that difficult. Took me the better part of 3 days, but I went all out and ran into a few snags and some rain. I swapped sides on the birfs, replaced the rotors and calipers, replaced all the bearings, etc.
I would buy the parts from CDan, or Man-a-Fre has a kit. Then you get everything you need.
I have the hub socket if you want to borrow it. I even know where it is! I also have the DVD that somebody in the 80 section put together showing the job - not critical, but helps you get a feel for what's going on before you tear into it. I may know where that is.
And finally, I may be able to stop by and help a bit, depending on when you go at it. I think we're relatively close - I'm in the S. end of black forest.