Can anyone recommend a good mechanic in Austin Texas?
Austin FJ40 Mechanic ??
- Thread starter grex
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Talk to Jeff Beardon at Beardon Automotive.
What's wrong with your 40?
What's wrong with your 40?
- Thread starter
- #3
Carb.
I just bought it about 4 months ago, and the guy I got it from had it sitting for about 3 years.
I removed the gas tank had it redone, cleaned all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel pump, and it has been running pretty good, except for the fact that the carb needs to be tuned.
But here recently after driving it around for ~30 minutes or so, it starts hesitating and eventually dies.
When I try to turn it back on, no dice.
One thing that has me puzzled is how it does not start well until the truck is warmed up. The temp. gauge reads normal, and it has a reconditioned radiator on it as well.
????
I just bought it about 4 months ago, and the guy I got it from had it sitting for about 3 years.
I removed the gas tank had it redone, cleaned all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel pump, and it has been running pretty good, except for the fact that the carb needs to be tuned.
But here recently after driving it around for ~30 minutes or so, it starts hesitating and eventually dies.
When I try to turn it back on, no dice.One thing that has me puzzled is how it does not start well until the truck is warmed up. The temp. gauge reads normal, and it has a reconditioned radiator on it as well.
????
Is the choke cable hooked up correctly?
Easy to overlook the hold down clamp (cable may have slipped).
Remove air cleaner, look at choke. Pull the choke cable from inside, look again. Way too easy for it to slip out of place.
Sitting for three years, I suspect a gummed up carb. Pretty straight forward to clean a carb (inspect, tear down, carb cleaner, rinse, blow out, reassemble). Ya, if you want help with it I can walk you through it on a Saturday. (I'm in Cedar Park).
With the hesitating and hard to restart, check the fuel level in the carb! Little window, fuel level should be half way. Took a little to realize the problem after replacing the fuel pump and rebuilding the carb... lines from the tank were gunked up allowing just enough fuel for idle and low rpm operation. It would hesitate and cut out at 50mph, fine at 20mph.
2F's are cold blooded. Once the carb is rebuilt, full tune, and everything in good order they do start easier. If you have a heck of a time in cold/damp weather... check the cap and spark plugs wires.
Tom
Easy to overlook the hold down clamp (cable may have slipped).
Remove air cleaner, look at choke. Pull the choke cable from inside, look again. Way too easy for it to slip out of place.
Sitting for three years, I suspect a gummed up carb. Pretty straight forward to clean a carb (inspect, tear down, carb cleaner, rinse, blow out, reassemble). Ya, if you want help with it I can walk you through it on a Saturday. (I'm in Cedar Park).
With the hesitating and hard to restart, check the fuel level in the carb! Little window, fuel level should be half way. Took a little to realize the problem after replacing the fuel pump and rebuilding the carb... lines from the tank were gunked up allowing just enough fuel for idle and low rpm operation. It would hesitate and cut out at 50mph, fine at 20mph.
2F's are cold blooded. Once the carb is rebuilt, full tune, and everything in good order they do start easier. If you have a heck of a time in cold/damp weather... check the cap and spark plugs wires.
Tom
I just bought it about 4 months ago, and the guy I got it from had it sitting for about 3 years.
I removed the gas tank had it redone, cleaned all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel pump, and it has been running pretty good, except for the fact that the carb needs to be tuned.
But here recently after driving it around for ~30 minutes or so, it starts hesitating and eventually dies.
One thing that has me puzzled is how it does not start well until the truck is warmed up. The temp. gauge reads normal, and it has a reconditioned radiator on it as well.
????
- Thread starter
- #5
I'm going to change the spark plugs and wires, but damn I would really appreciate another set of eyes on it.
How much will you charge to take a look at it?
Thanks
How much will you charge to take a look at it?
Thanks
answer
do toyotas have a control module? if so sounds likw it might be over heating and could be BAD... just an idea
do toyotas have a control module? if so sounds likw it might be over heating and could be BAD... just an idea
What part of town are you in??
A few of us live in central Austin, and would love to give you a hand.
A few of us live in central Austin, and would love to give you a hand.
There are a few things:
The bigger question is WHEN was everything in the fuel system overhauled?
I have experienced all of the following with one vehicle or another:
1) Fuel blockage. I had a very similar problem to yours in my '40 - started & idled OK, then on the road it would die and not start. It turned out to be a large accumulation of particles blocking a filter - Eventually the fuel would drain back down the line and unblock the filter a little so I could start it.
2) The floats in the carb might be sticking and allowing the bowl to go empty - you might have a siteglass on the side of the carb you could shine a flashlight in to check when it stalls. The float arm could be varnished from old fuel or corrosion.
3) Bad coil. I have had this happen many, many, many times - everything works great until the coil heats up. A broken wire winding inside the coil seperates as the coil expands with temperature and then there is insufficient spark. You can't always tell by just pulling a plug and inspecting for a spark - because a weak spark will occur at normal atmospheric pressure, but under compression in the cylinder it will not spark.
Hope some of this helps you.
The bigger question is WHEN was everything in the fuel system overhauled?
I have experienced all of the following with one vehicle or another:
1) Fuel blockage. I had a very similar problem to yours in my '40 - started & idled OK, then on the road it would die and not start. It turned out to be a large accumulation of particles blocking a filter - Eventually the fuel would drain back down the line and unblock the filter a little so I could start it.
2) The floats in the carb might be sticking and allowing the bowl to go empty - you might have a siteglass on the side of the carb you could shine a flashlight in to check when it stalls. The float arm could be varnished from old fuel or corrosion.
3) Bad coil. I have had this happen many, many, many times - everything works great until the coil heats up. A broken wire winding inside the coil seperates as the coil expands with temperature and then there is insufficient spark. You can't always tell by just pulling a plug and inspecting for a spark - because a weak spark will occur at normal atmospheric pressure, but under compression in the cylinder it will not spark.
Hope some of this helps you.
- Thread starter
- #9
Carb Tuning
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies!
OK, I got a little crazy in the last couple of months with changing out some parts, luckily the thing started after it all...
1) First to answer the question regarding the fuel tank rebuild; I cleaned everything out right before summer time. I think I was pretty thourough, but you never know.
2) As far as the parts changed.
I followed the tuning instructions, but no adjustment seems to make a difference.
I also put a vacuum gauge on the engine, and it is really high (20 in Hg).
If anyone can maybe help out with the tuning, I would really appreciate it, and I don't expect this to be done for free...
I would really like to get my FJ on the road soon, please help
.
I live in Central Austin, right behind the old Airport next to the golf course.
Thanks again,
Vito
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies!
OK, I got a little crazy in the last couple of months with changing out some parts, luckily the thing started after it all...
1) First to answer the question regarding the fuel tank rebuild; I cleaned everything out right before summer time. I think I was pretty thourough, but you never know.
2) As far as the parts changed.
- New Coil
- New MSD 6A box
- Ignitor Electronic Ignition Module (Works great I have one on my 67 mustang as well)
- Removed the ignitor (Not sure it is bad, but I have heard some horror stories with these things working for a while, and once they warm up the cause the engine to stall).
- New Weber Carb (The original Aisin was sitting around for about 5 years, per the previous owner).
I followed the tuning instructions, but no adjustment seems to make a difference.
I also put a vacuum gauge on the engine, and it is really high (20 in Hg).
If anyone can maybe help out with the tuning, I would really appreciate it, and I don't expect this to be done for free...
I would really like to get my FJ on the road soon, please help
.I live in Central Austin, right behind the old Airport next to the golf course.
Thanks again,
Vito
- Thread starter
- #10
