Appalachia Cruisers 60's Thread

[bluehawk]

This thread is for those with a 60/62 and want to discuss related items. I know we don't have many in the club but hope this will change. Post up discussions and build topics. Heck post up what ever you want about the 60's.

 

[bluehawk]

Just wondering if anyone has used add-a-leafs to their stock spring packs? Dont know wheather or not to just run with what I have are do an add-a-leafs or find some new springs.

 

[jason in tn]

I would wait and see what you get from your spring over first and go from there. AAL aren't very flexy jmo.

 

[sk8salomon]

You will be surprised what AALs do to old saggy springs. Depending on what you plan on packing in the 60, if light I'd go new springs all around. Otherwise I've been happy with bringing life back to my old springs w cheap AALs. Just make sure & get the leaf long as possible.

 

[bluehawk]

You will be surprised what AALs do to old saggy springs. Depending on what you plan on packing in the 60, if light I'd go new springs all around. Otherwise I've been happy with bringing life back to my old springs w cheap AALs. Just make sure & get the leaf long as possible.

SK8, thanks for the input. Think that for now I will be running the old springs as is.

 

[bluehawk]

Sean (SK8),,,, sent you a PM. Let me know

 

[Ridge Runner]

Just wondering if anyone has used add-a-leafs to their stock spring packs? Dont know wheather or not to just run with what I have are do an add-a-leafs or find some new springs.

I realize that this is an old question, but the previous owner put them on my '87 to clear 31" tires, and it rides kinda rough. They're not a bad choice, but one I'm not overly fond of.

 

[bluehawk]

Heard that older springs have more flex. Down side is that there tends to be more body roll. I'm just gonna run my old springs and go from there.

 

[Ridge Runner]

Yes, there will be a little less body roll, but a rear sway bar would probably do a better job of alleviating that than AALs. I still had quite a bit of it of body roll on my '87 that had them installed. It didn't feel a whole lot better than the '86 I drove Sunday that was on 33s, 2" shackles, and no rear shocks (literally).

 

[sk8salomon]

i had to put my factory shackles back on after my soa, lot's of body roll. Much better after. I had 2" aftermarket ones and it was too much with AAL's on stock saggy leafs.

 

[bluehawk]

HELP GUYS

Okay you all, I've never asked for help before on my project except for Lee building my axles. I need some help now. My brakes are binding up after only driving it for short distances. I'll drive it up my road and back, and the brakes get really tight. After putting it on the lift, I cant even spin the tires by hand. If I bleed one caliper, the tires spin freely. Same for front and back. Here is what I've done.

New:
Rear disc brake conversion
New calipers in rear w/ rotors
New steel/braided lines on rear axle
New steel line along frame to the front
New calipers/rotors in front
New steel/braided lines on front axle

Old:
Brake booster
Master cylinder
Hard lines from MC to frame

I did the test of pumping up the brakes with the engine off and holding the brakes on the sixth one then starting the engine. The pedal fell slowly after starting the engine, it didn't drop fast or anything. "Pacer" on the main 60 forum page said to adjust the push rod.

Have any of you guys ever done this? I have a Haynes manual and it doesn't cover anything about adjusting the push rod. Couldn't find anything on Mud for a FSM covering this. Needs someone's help in getting this done. Would like to do it this week or next week one day.

 

[Subterranean Nik]

i agree with Pacer, start with the push rod. Had this happen on my 40.
Basically separate the master cylinder from the booster (think i just pulled mine away enough to reach pushrod, didn't undo steel lines)
Adjust (shorten) pushrod. There is a SST for setting it, but i just used a "close enough" measurement
Few things posted on here "searched fj40 brake pushrod adjustment"
Text me and i can swing by next few days after work if you need a hand.

 

[bluehawk]

i agree with Pacer, start with the push rod. Had this happen on my 40.
Basically separate the master cylinder from the booster (think i just pulled mine away enough to reach pushrod, didn't undo steel lines)
Adjust (shorten) pushrod. There is a SST for setting it, but i just used a "close enough" measurement
Few things posted on here "searched fj40 brake pushrod adjustment"
Text me and i can swing by next few days after work if you need a hand.

That would be awesome Nik, I'll text you later on this week. Maybe Thursday or Friday????

 

[jynx]

No practical experience with the brakes, but I have had to do similar in the clutch pushrod after installing a new clutch and flywheel. Basically the rod length sets the "resting or starting" position of the system and with all the upgrades yours essentially needs a reset.

No idea how to access, but sounds like that's been covered. Good luck

 

[bluehawk]

Thanks Matthew, got Nik that is going to give me a hand. I've never done anything like this before except on a VW. Should be the same I would guess. I'll post up the outcome. I'm F'ing ready to drive this beast.

 

[jynx]

I'm ready to see you drive that beast too, plus I'm ready to see what you put a diesel in next

 

[My4x4FJ40]

It would be the adjustment Rod under the dash not between the master cylinder and booster considering you didn't replace the master cylinder or booster

 

[bluehawk]

Adjusted both today and the same outcome. Brakes are still not releasing. Couple of short drives and the turbo is getting extremely hot. Its driving me crazy at this point.

 

[Subterranean Nik]

Update...we pretty much adjusted everything you can last night (pedal adjustment rod, booster pushrod, even brake pedal stopper). I agree with you Lee about pushrod since it was never changed out, etc... but after starting with pedal stuff we adjusted anyways to no avail. Fun part will be returning everything to OE specs!

Appears to be a hydraulic pressure relief issue.

I am going to drop off a spare master cylinder this weekend to see if we can eliminate that as the issue. I would think that if master is bad it could prevent fluid from returning to reservoirs...

Thoughts? Typical cruiser project (thought it would be simple...ha, ha).

 

[bluehawk]

Update...we pretty much adjusted everything you can last night (pedal adjustment rod, booster pushrod, even brake pedal stopper). I agree with you Lee about pushrod since it was never changed out, etc... but after starting with pedal stuff we adjusted anyways to no avail. Fun part will be returning everything to OE specs!

Appears to be a hydraulic pressure relief issue.

I am going to drop off a spare master cylinder this weekend to see if we can eliminate that as the issue. I would think that if master is bad it could prevent fluid from returning to reservoirs...

Thoughts? Typical cruiser project (thought it would be simple...ha, ha).

Thanks again Nik for the help. We will figure it out sooner or later