Anyone with experience with WinALDL? TBI issue (1 Viewer)

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Dec 26, 2007
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I've got an issue with the TBI 350 in my FJ40. Its running rough at low rpms, but does better above 2k. I datalogged some this evening with WinALDL, but don't know enough about it to know if the data can help me.

Something that stands out is that my speed varied from 0 to 255, when I don't even have a VSS. Does that point to an electrical issue?

Oh, this issue started at the end of a trail ride (it was stumbling/coughing real bad for a minute or two), but I have had a problem with an occasional fluctuating idle since the TBI conversion.

Anyone want to take a look at my data? PM me your email address and I'll send it. ih8mud won't let me attach anything that's not a picture.

Any ideas as to what's wrong that wouldn't throw a code? Vacuum? Fuel Pressure? Injector? Spark Plugs or wires? I'll be checking everything I can think of tomorrow morning.

Thanks in advance!

David.
 
I'm assuming WinALDL lets you read the bin file from the PROM? I don't think it's going to show you a code like an engine scanner would. I'd take it to an AutoZone or similar and ask them to scan it (even though its in the 40, tell them to treat it like an 88 C-10 P/U (OBD1)). This'll get you your code which may point to a failing VSS, TPS or IAC. It's ridiculous how cheap these sensors are getting now- I think I paid $8 for the last MAP sensor I needed.

Get the free version of TunerCAT to decipher your *bin file and if its late OBD1 you'll be able to scan your own codes.
 
make sure the Vss wire is not grounding, sounds like it is shorting. This wont cause your problem. Take a look at your injectors while idling. They should have a fine conical spray landing on the bore of the TB. PM sent
 
Actually, I haven't been getting the check engine light consistently during this. In the past, I would get a VSS code on the highway (mostly when slowing down for an off ramp). And I still do, but I think its unrelated. WinALDL did show my VSS code when I finally got a check engine light last night.
 
Try clearing the codes, as it looks like you have a clear flood flag not letting you go into closed loop. You are getting rich flags, and a few others. I'm not sure how these flags are set, so you should do some reasearch on that. could be a leaky injector or more likely bad 02 sensor.

If clearing the codes doesn't work, check your injectors for leaks cause its definately running from rich to lean at idle and if you are going into closed loop this could cause it. Check the actual voltage at your fuel pump also as this could be causing the problems, also a dying pump. If the voltage is ok and matches your ECM (13.9-14v according to winaldl) then test the fuel pressure, it should be around 13psi and stable.

If the fuel system checks out then you should look at your 02 sensor. Where is it located and is it a 1 wire or 3 wire? if your sensor is malfunctioning (not getting hot enough or too hot) it could cuase the the fueling to bounce around. Do you have headers?

looking over your log, you definately have something wrong with your VSS. it appears to be recieving some sort of signal, based on your speed (If I'm reading the log correctly). I'd trace that wire & make sure its not shorted. it looks alot like you DO have a VSS and its malfunctioning. this would not cause your problem.

It also looks like you are getting a funny reading from your TPS sensor (negative numbers). If you have a spare swap it in and see if that fixes your problem, if not check the sensor using the method described in the Hanes manual with a ohm tester.

Unfortunately thats about the best information I can give you. The data log info I use is from my EBL and it is in a much different format and samples more than 10X a second vs less than once for the standard ECM. Its much easier to see what the engine is doing. There are some areas I don't understand in your log, so I could be missing something major or making something out of a normal log event.

You might want to check out the TBI forum on the Thirdgen.org boards. There is alot of info over there & guys using Winaldl. maybe someone with WinALDL experience can help you out over there.
 
don't overlook the simple things

It was missing the whole time... I decided to start with the easy, cheap stuff. While changing spark plugs, I found a plug that was oily while all the others were dry. I immediately thought it was a problem in the head (burnt valve, valve seal, etc). Then I saw that the spark plug wire was badly burned in 2 places. You could see the wire inside. I used an ohm meter and found that the wire still carried plenty of electricity. But, I replaced the wire anyway b/c I had an extra set of wires. I went to drive it and it runs good again. But, I think it is in the head and it will probably foul a plug again. Maybe it will take a while so my project fund will build up again and I can afford to fix the head. I'm thinking of making it an upgrade and getting a set of Vortec heads, but I guess that would require a new intake and a custom TBI chip.

Any thoughts on how long it will take to foul the plug again?

Or if the head is my problem? I guess I'll pick up a compression tester tomorrow.

Or my choice of upgrade? I'm after very low rpm power/torque.

Thanks for your help.
 
If you had a burnt wire (common with ramshorns) that was shorting against the engine then that is why the cylinder wasn't firing. A shorted wire will make the engine run like crap and leave the plug fouled, especially if you have leaky valve seals (also very common). Fix whatever is making the wire burn and I think you will be fine. If it was a problem in the head I don't think it would run fine when you repalced the wire.

Not much you can do on the low end with the stock heads, since they are designed to flow well below 4500rpm's. A cam will help if you don't get very radical.
 
Affordable Fuel Ing Website

You might know about this allready, but Affordable Fuel Ing has a pretty good trouble shooting section on there website. X2 on Third Gen.Org, those Guys are really into conversions/mods, lots of good info. Good luck, Al
 
Senor Aguas, here's the deal. 1,000 percent of your problems are exactly what happens when you don't have a VSS (idle function problems at various speeds). Too many brothers on this forum are going to tell you they run good without a VSS. I don't think they know how good there vehicle would run if they DID have a VSS.
 
That problem above was a plug wire. Its all fixed now, but I still get a check engine light and an occasional problem after the light comes on.

I should've mentioned that I physically have a VSS, but it wasn't/isn't functioning.

Like you say, I am pretty sure that the problem is the VSS based off of what I've read from literature from Downey and JTR. I have the correct VSS that the PO bought just before I traded for the vehicle. Not sure if he bought it from Downey or JTR.

Anyway, the PO hooked it up and it didn't help. I got frustrated with it and took it to my mechanic. He thinks it needs a VSS buffer from a Caprice to convert the sine wave to digital. It goes between the VSS and ECU. From what I've read (from JTR), some years of TBI have this digital to analog converter built in to the ECU and some don't. Truck TBI's have something totally different (DRAC). Anyway, I've called 6 salvage yards with no luck and gave up. I may just buy one from a firebird and hope it works (I've asked the ebayer below to find one for me, but he couldn't).

eBay Motors: firebird camaro vss buffer box speedo odometer tpi tbi (item 220223872481 end time Sep-10-08 13:47:40 PDT)

Anyway, I'm stuck and I think it has to do with differences in TBI's. Could be a bad VSS, I suppose.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-tpi-Speed-Sensors.pdf
 
Senor Aguas, no you do not need a GM Buffer or Drac (they are both the same thing). Dracs are set up for a specific tire size and gear ratio for a specific GM vehicle. Your Toyota will not have that same tire size and gear ratio, and the Dracs are not reprogramable. We have always believed, and Fuel Injection Specialties has confirmed that the VSS signal can go directly to the ECU. When I learn different, or anyone else can prove this is wrong, I'm all ears!!!!! If you don't have instructions on wiring the VSS, PM me.
 

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