Anyone rebuild their Upper console panel (diagram in thread) (1 Viewer)

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Upper console panel. The piece the shifter goes through.
**Part Number: 5882160A10 / marked on diagram as 58821c

Just wondering how difficult it is. Bought the truck with that panel and the combination switch assembly (switches by shifter) marred so I want to replace both.
I have the parts, and I've seen vids of people installing crawl control and apple car play, so I see how to remove it, just curious how tough it would be to swap EVERYTHING from the existing panel to the new one. I guess everything in the diagram needs to be transferred. Any tips, tricks, things to look out for would be appreciated.

thanks in advance
upper panel.JPG
 
Many of us have removed and changed some of the components within the center console. One of the more common ones is to replace the "U.S." spec'ed switches, or blanks with Multi Terrain and Crawl Control buttons.

The term "easy" is very dependent upon ones own skill level. If you have patience, some basic interior panel tools (plastic scoops), it shouldn't be all that hard at all. If you think you're getting in too deep, start taking lots of pictures of what you're disconnecting and where things go.
Since you're doing a straight swap and not changing any of the switches, I couldn't imagine it taking more than a few hours at most, and that's really taking your time.

I've had to take the center console out several times for different mods I did and it was easy. Albeit, I didn't remove ALL the switches.
 
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Watch the first video in the first post of the Add Crawl Control thread at the top of the forum. It will show you how to take the center console out and how to swap the switches and stuff. Once you get it out you will see how easy it is to take things out and put them back in.
 
Many of us have removed and changed some of the components within the center console. One of the more common ones is to replace the "U.S." spec'ed switches, or blanks with Multi Terrain and Crawl Control buttons.

The term "easy" is very dependent upon ones own skill level. I you have patience, some basic interior panel tools (plastic scoops), it shouldn't be all that hard at all. If you think you're getting in too deep, start taking lots of pictures of what you're disconnecting and where things go.
Since you're doing a straight swap and not changing any of the switches, I couldn't imagine it taking more than a few hours at most, and that's really taking your time.

I've had to take the center console out several times for different mods I did and it was easy. Albeit, I didn't remove ALL the switches.
thanks
 
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Watch the first video in the first post of the Add Crawl Control thread at the top of the forum. It will show you how to take the center console out and how to swap the switches and stuff. Once you get it out you will see how easy it is to take things out and put them back in.
thanks. thats the vid I have. its was all the rest of the stuff I'm not sure of :)
 
Pretty simple.

brakes-jpg.3385216

I removed mine to install Crawl and to swap out the front bin with one I carved up to accomodate a brake controller. If you've ever done aftermarket stereo/speaker installation on a modern vehicle, it should be rather easy.
 
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There’s just 3 or 4 wire connectors that you have to unplug and then the whole thing comes out. Once you get it out, you’ll see how to remove everything. It’s pretty straightforward.
thanks. my biggest concern is figuring out how to remove the shifter bag, gear indicator, heated/cooled seat switch and the whole tray/usb cubby thing that is where the ash tray would have been. the combo switch seems easy enough per the video mentioned
 
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thanks. my biggest concern is figuring out how to remove the shifter bag, gear indicator, heated/cooled seat switch and the whole tray/usb cubby thing that is where the ash tray would have been. the combo switch seems easy enough per the video mentioned
Once you unscrew and remove the shift knob, the shift boot (bag) comes off with the console. You may have to put the shift lever in "N" or "D" to get the boot off. Just be sure you have wheel chocks, emergency brake is on and your foot on the brake pedal when doing it.
 
Once you unscrew and remove the shift knob, the shift boot (bag) comes off with the console. You may have to put the shift lever in "N" or "D" to get the boot off. Just be sure you have wheel chocks, emergency brake is on and your foot on the brake pedal when doing it.
thanks

Tackled the job yesterday. took about 3-3.5 hours. Most of it was straight forward, but there was a couple of place I got hung up on that added a lot of time.
Didnt realize I needed to remove the heated/cooled seat switch AND the housing it went into first, or the cup holder sub assembly won't clear.

A trick, should anyone find this thread in the future is to make shims out of playing cards and slid them in between the clips holding the seat heat/cool switch housing and the female side of the clip attached to the panel. Theres four, so its impossible hold all four back to un-clip it.

I also didnt realize you have to remove the gear indicator from the panel (you should un-clip the plug as well to make sure the wires dont break).

Lastly, I couldnt figure out how to remove the sliding wood tray that covers the USB ports(even with a post on the board, so I had to flex the plastic a few the places. I'm guessing with the sliding door off, it would have made the mating/unmating much easier. I just put a lot of painters tape over it, cup holder door, and the trim panel housing the infotainment system around where the panel I changed met it
 
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Pretty simple.

brakes-jpg.3385216

I removed mine to install Crawl and to swap out the front bin with one I carved up to accomodate a brake controller. If you've ever done aftermarket stereo/speaker installation on a modern vehicle, it should be rather easy.
I like that. I have been thinking that would be an ideal spot for extra switches (kdss off/on, abs off/on, accessory lighting switch, etc.

When you were under there, do you recall if there was a variable ground wire nearby?
 
I like that. I have been thinking that would be an ideal spot for extra switches (kdss off/on, abs off/on, accessory lighting switch, etc.

When you were under there, do you recall if there was a variable ground wire nearby?
I don't recall. I had Tekonsha's factory harness, so it wasn't an issue.
 

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