Anyone bled the brakes on a '03+ 100?

[Jim_Chow]

Has anyone here bled the brakes on a '03 or newer LC/LX? The tech at the lexus dealer says one needs to use the tester SST to bleed the rears due to the electronic brake force distribution introduced in '03 (in other words, you have to have the dealer bleed an '03 or newer or pay $3K for the toyota/lex tester). Can anyone confirm/refute this? The SM at the toyota dealer says he's done it on the '98-02 LC before, but isn't sure if it'll work on the '03+ due to the electronic brake force distribution.

 

[hoser]

EBD first came in MY2000.

 

[vcheng]

Has anyone here bled the brakes on a '03 or newer LC/LX? The tech at the lexus dealer says one needs to use the tester SST to bleed the rears due to the electronic brake force distribution introduced in '03 (in other words, you have to have the dealer bleed an '03 or newer or pay $3K for the toyota/lex tester). Can anyone confirm/refute this? The SM at the toyota dealer says he's done it on the '98-02 LC before, but isn't sure if it'll work on the '03+ due to the electronic brake force distribution.

Jim:

I have recently bled the brakes on a 2005 UZJ100. It was straightforward with no need for the SST. The fluid change led to a noticeable firming up of the pedal. I used a Motive Power bleeder from Summit Racing and did it alone, but if you have a helper to pump the pedal, even that is not required.

If you are in upstate NY, I'd offer to help you with this!

 

[no-pistons]

which Motive adapter worked for the 100 series?

 

[neoworm]

The tester is needed to get the fluid out of the ABS system. You can bleed the brakes yourself but you'll end up with about .5l of old fluid still left in the ABS actuator. If you've never had it done it might be worth doing once. However, if you actuate your ABS often then the old fluid will mix with the new.

I had it done at the dealer for about $200.

 

[jhrrld]

So is there any special considerations with our electric booster system when using a Motive power bleeder? Just hook it up and pressurize and start bleeding? Planing on flushing the system this weekend after I install the powerstop rotors and pads. Would it be better just to take it by the stealer and have the do a system bleed down/flush?

 

[agaisin]

I've been using speedbleeders - seem to work fine except that their nut size is non-standard which can be confusing to anyone else working on my car.

If you want to do one person brake bleeding you probably want something like the motive that connects to the master cylinder and pressurizes the system or something like speedbleeder with a checkvalve that prevents air from getting back into the system.

 

[jhrrld]

I've been using speedbleeders - seem to work fine except that their nut size is non-standard which can be confusing to anyone else working on my car.

If you want to do one person brake bleeding you probably want something like the motive that connects to the master cylinder and pressurizes the system or something like speedbleeder with a checkvalve that prevents air from getting back into the system.

I have the motive. I'm curious if I need to turn the ignition ON before I go about bleeding with a power bleeder. On my 4runner there is no need to do anything but hook up the motive, pressurize and bleed. Curious if this is how it would work on the 100 with it's complicated electric booster trac/abs system. I'd really hate to screw it up.

 

[jhrrld]

I have the motive. I'm curious if I need to turn the ignition ON before I go about bleeding with a power bleeder. On my 4runner there is no need to do anything but hook up the motive, pressurize and bleed. Curious if this is how it would work on the 100 with it's complicated electric booster trac/abs system. I'd really hate to screw it up.

BUMP!

Anyone know? With the motive power bleeder is it necassary to turn the ignition on to turn on the booster? I would think it does not matter. Obviously would be missing some fluid that would be accumulated in the booster (assumption on my part) and in the trac/abs manifold right? Any one have any experience with this?

 

[squeezer]

Bleeding the rears the simplest procedure out there. Key on, light force on the pedal, (and by light I mean light about an inch of motion is all you need). Get under the truck and crack the bleed screws. The EBD pump will push the fluid through for you with no pumping on the pedal or need for pressure/vac bleeders.

Fronts can be done like a normal car.

The above does not get the ABS system purged out however. To accomplish that without the special tools just find a low traction surface and engage the ABS...

Putting those three things together in a logical sequence goes something like this:

Purge old fluid out of the master cylinder (use a turkey baster or the rear brake flush from above)
Engage ABS to get clean fluid into isolated circuit
Bleed rear as above
Bleed front

Sounds more complex than it is. The only caveat is I use about 3X the fluid required in the system to get a really good purge. Cheap insurance in my opinion.