Anybody used Iron Man Leaf Springs

[jynx]

So After a lot of research and head scratching I think I have a plan for the SAS on my pickup. I wanted to do a 3-link, and probably still will on my 4Runner eventually, but have settled on a leaf set-up, so enter my question, anyone have any experience with the Iron Man Leaf springs? Their 80 coils are getting some nods and they look to be good units, but not hearing a lot about their leafs. I'm going to be using some 79-85 fronts to build my front end off of, and after some discussion with some folks who have used the OME units for this, and given the good reviews that Iron Man is getting I was considering them for the fronts, and rears for my build.

I am still in the early stages and I am gathering parts and planning so any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Matthew

 

[jynx]

Guess not... at least not in this section. If anyone is interested there are some threads over in the 60s and 40s sections.

 

[NCjeff]

Currently gathering parts for the same on my 88 4runner. Was not aware that Ironman made leaf springs also. Been reading about others lifting their GX470s with Ironman stuff and they seem to like the product. There is a waiting period for the stuff to be shipped to the US. Im still debating which SAS kit to use. Which one do you plan on using?

 

[jynx]

Well, that is where it gets interesting and before I lay out my plan, yes I know it is going to be more expensive to piece it together this way, but I have done my research.

Here is the plan:
FROR front hanger kit (frenched slightly)
Marlin shock hoops
TG or Marlin High steer
OME or Iron Man 79-85 front leaf packs
Marlin Axle Rebuild kit
Debating TG wiper and rock ring kit
1983 axle with 1991 HP third from my LC.
Radflo 10" 2.0 non-coil emulsion shocks (front)
OME or IM greaseable shackles or stock length early shackles
OME or IM rear springs for 86-95 pickup
Radflo 2.0's for the rear, will have to measure for length.
Marlin extended brake lines (crown performance)
Marlin U-bolt kits front and rear
4.88s and 33" Cooper STT's
Maybe an ARB for the rear a FROR twin stick and maybe a crawl box, but those are all on the wish list right now.

I will sort out the other misc stuff like bumpstops and axle truss and armor as I go.

Based on my research that should net me about 2.5"-3" of lift and with the bump stops set right, should be plenty low and clear 33's without looking like the tires are too small.

I know it sounds to low to clear the cross-over steering, but after talking to several people I just have to get the bumpstops set right and I am golden. Not but a few inches of up travel, but it should have some good droop.

Then it will look like they should have from the factory.

Gonna start parts hoarding when the Tax man comes.... Already have the axle and a hi-pinion third, so rebuilding that will be the first order of business.

 

[GRM]

Based on my research that should net me about 2.5"-3" of lift and with the bump stops set right, should be plenty low and clear 33's without looking like the tires are too small.

From my experience, your probably going to see closer to 5" of front lift with that setup.

Here is the break down:

86-95 frame is 1.5" lower than 85.
FROR hanger is a .5" drop
OME shackles are 1" lift
OME front springs are 2.5" lift.

So (1.5+(.5/2)+(1/2)+2.5)= 4.75" lift.

Also, OME springs are 1" shorter than most other aftermarket springs. So take this into account when setting your shackle angle (IE: its very hard to use the supplied shackle frame jigs)

Shown is my 86 Toyota sits on 35's, with a 1" front hanger, 1" dropped shackles, 1.5" lift spring, and its suspension is around 5" taller than the stock sagged suspension. Its also 4" shorter than a comparable Trail gear 3 or 4" lift. I clear 35's on 15x9's without any trimming or rubbing. It looks silly when I put 31's back on it. If I made it any lower, the front axle would be all over both the frame rails, an oil pan.

 

[GRM]

I know it sounds to low to clear the cross-over steering, but after talking to several people I just have to get the bumpstops set right and I am golden. Not but a few inches of up travel, but it should have some good droop.

In order to clear crossover steering with less than 3" of lift, you need to rotate the box, and run a flat pitman arm. In this setup, you can run down to 1" of lift (as long as the springs don't go beyond flat at full compression, your fine).

 

[jynx]

Yeah the rotated box is on the "as needed" list. I have seen one truck running without rotating it, but I will if I have to. I am also hoping to gain back an inch or so by frenching the FROR hanger up into the factory crossmember slightly and by having a pair of stock length shackles to play with. My front crossmember is trashed and needs repalcing, so why not just work the hanger in while I am at it.

My whole goal is to be low enough that the 33's look like they belong without having to notch the frame. That is why it is going to end up being a bunch of different manufacturers, I'm trying to pick the pieces that I think will get me to the end result I am looking for.

Oh and thanks for the spring length info, that is good to know for when it comes time for shackle and hanger placement. I am probably going to have to mark the current wheel centerline and decide which way to go. Ideally i'd like to stay close to existing, but I will have to play around with it and see.

Thanks

 

[GRM]

I am also hoping to gain back an inch or so by frenching the FROR hanger up into the factory crossmember slightly and by having a pair of stock length shackles to play with. My front crossmember is trashed and needs repalcing, so why not just work the hanger in while I am at it.

The issue with doing this is brake dive. The spring eyes should be level at ride height to mitigate the dive.

On a IFS truck, the front hanger is taller in relation to the shackle mounting area than the shackle area. With a 1" dropped hanger, the center of the rear eye should be 7/8" into the frame. This is why most SAS kits include a 2 or 2.5" drop hanger. My rear eye sits about 1.5" taller than the front, and causes alot of my brake dive issues.

Also, if you use too short of a shackle, you get a combination of a) loss of wheel travel b) inverted front shackles (bent springs) c) more leverage over the spring, causing a much reduced spring rate at full bump.

Another trick (which I used) was to install reverse eye springs. If you haven't noticed them before, they are springs where the main leaf is mounted at the top of the eye, rather than the bottom. This will lower your truck by 1.5-2.5 (depending on the size of the spring eye). I attached pictures of mine; one picture at full droop, and one on un-level ground (I only have about 1.5" between the bump stop and the frame). Not the best image of the springs, but it gives you the of how I accomplished the same goals your looking for.

 

[Sam Stewart]

I've been looking at the Iron Man myself. You can probably buy a complete kit including the springs for half of what the OME costs and there are a lot of people saying the stuff is really good quality. Brian from ACC has the full set up on his 80 (6" I think?) and he said it's like a whole new truck. I'm 99% sure that I'm going to just buy the whole kit for my truck when I get to that point.

Also, even though the lifts say they are only 2" or 2.5" most people are getting more like 4" or more because the old springs are so worn out that they are sagging an extra inch or two.

If you're interested I can get you some more information. ACC is an official distributor or Iron Man.

 

[jynx]

GRM, where did you get your leaves from? I obviously still have a lot to learn about leaf springs since I am pretty sure I was not aware of the difference between regular and reverse eye springs. I also I am glad you pointed out the level of the spring eyes. I didn't know that either. I definitely got more reading to do.

Lowe, You mentioned you think the full set of springs would be less than the OME setup, but when I look at the Camel 4x4 website they are actually $5 more than the same OME spring $88 vs $83 per spring, that is unless the Camel price is for a pair and not per spring. I was thinking about a set of the heavy springs to account for a plate bumper and future winch, but I think I will just do a standard set for now and go to heavies if I need to later on.

I really appreciate the information and input.

thanks,

Matt

 

[GRM]

GRM, where did you get your leaves from? I obviously still have a lot to learn about leaf springs since I am pretty sure I was not aware of the difference between regular and reverse eye springs. I also I am glad you pointed out the level of the spring eyes. I didn't know that either. I definitely got more reading to do.

My springs were a used pair of National Springs, which I had rebuilt by Deaver. They are very similar to the Rubicon Express YJ SOA springs, except they have a military wrap, are stronger steel, and aren't prone to bending. If you can afford a few extra bucks, I'd highly recommend running the Deaver springs.

Another trick a lot of my friends use (as most can't afford $700 for 2 spring packs), is to buy the top 2 leafs from Deaver (as they are the ones that wear out the fastest), then install the bottom leafs from another pack. For example, you could easily run the top 2 Deaver leafs, then install the bottom leafs from a Wagoneer spring pack.

A cool option which I would like to see is to run the top 2 reverse eye leafs from deaver with the bottom leafs from an old man emu front spring.

 

[Sam Stewart]

GRM, where did you get your leaves from? I obviously still have a lot to learn about leaf springs since I am pretty sure I was not aware of the difference between regular and reverse eye springs. I also I am glad you pointed out the level of the spring eyes. I didn't know that either. I definitely got more reading to do.

Lowe, You mentioned you think the full set of springs would be less than the OME setup, but when I look at the Camel 4x4 website they are actually $5 more than the same OME spring $88 vs $83 per spring, that is unless the Camel price is for a pair and not per spring. I was thinking about a set of the heavy springs to account for a plate bumper and future winch, but I think I will just do a standard set for now and go to heavies if I need to later on.

I really appreciate the information and input.

thanks,

Matt

Send an email to ACC and get them to price them for you. I think they may be cheaper than Camel. info@atlantacustomcreations.com

 

[MaK92 4RnR]

If you're looking for a "low" SAS. You could always go with the 3" Trail-gear kit, french the front hanger into the frame, and use the 5" shackles. Should yield the same result. Iron man have much better springs, thats for sure. I plan on going with OME springs, bilsteins 5125 shocks, and 1" OME shackles while running 35s.

 

[jynx]

If you're looking for a "low" SAS. You could always go with the 3" Trail-gear kit, french the front hanger into the frame, and use the 5" shackles. Should yield the same result. Iron man have much better springs, thats for sure. I plan on going with OME springs, bilsteins 5125 shocks, and 1" OME shackles while running 35s.

I looked at that but even the TG 3" springs look like they have a lot of arch to them. Course I've also read they are pretty sag happy too.

I think I might look into the deavers, or a deaver/ OME or I'M hybrid.

I will also email ACC about the IM springs

 

[calico kid]

I've been looking at the Iron Man myself. You can probably buy a complete kit including the springs for half of what the OME costs and there are a lot of people saying the stuff is really good quality. Brian from ACC has the full set up on his 80 (6" I think?) and he said it's like a whole new truck. I'm 99% sure that I'm going to just buy the whole kit for my truck when I get to that point.

Also, even though the lifts say they are only 2" or 2.5" most people are getting more like 4" or more because the old springs are so worn out that they are sagging an extra inch or two.

If you're interested I can get you some more information. ACC is an official distributor or Iron Man.

I installed some Iron man springs on a 60 it seemed more like 5''. They tend to be high. shackle angle was not so good when I was done.

They do seem to have a nice ride.