Any reason to keep the stock tow hook when running Trail Tailor tow points?

[dfinn]

Upgraded to some of these for beefier recovery points:

Tow Points - 60 80 100 Series

just getting around to installing them and I'm thinking I should probably ditch the stock tow hook?

With the tow hook there I can't get a shackle in the hole because it gets in the way. I'm also thinking no need for the tow hook with a quality shackle and upgraded tow point. Safe to ditch it?

 

[KUpchu9702]

No reason to keep the old hooks. The ones from the factory are mainly for shipping use and not as true recovery points. The Trail Tailor heavy duty recovery points are all you will need. As you say the old ones unless removed make it impossible to attach a shackle. Yes it is very safe to remove them. If you are using them only on the front end then remove those. If you are also using a set of TT recovery points on the rear as well then remove factory hooks there as well. In my case I used a set up front and removed factory hooks. Then in the rear my bumper already had recovery points as part of the bumper. So I removed factory hooks in the rear and will use bumper recovery points instead of TT points In the rear.

 

[dfinn]

Sounds good. Looks like I'll need some different bolts. I think I need 14mm x 40 mm length but the thread pitch seems non standard. At least Home Depot didn't have it. Anyone happen to know what it is?

 

[Battleship]

Grade 12.9 M14x1.5x70mm

I'm mounting them with these, not sure where to get them yet.

 

[dfinn]

edit: nevermind, I had the thread pitch backwards in my head and was thinking smaller = coarser but it seems to be the opposite.

 

[Greenbean]

I'm mounting them with these, not sure where to get them yet.

Don't forget the washers too,

I was able to source some 10.9 at my local specialty bolt and screw business.

I haven't been educated on this yet but seems when you step up to the grade 12.9 you have an Allen head, 10.9 will keep you with a hex head for a socket.

 

[dfinn]

Looks like the thread pitch is the same on both sides, which makes sense. Didn't think they'd use something different.

My home depot only had 14mm x 2 which is definitely too coarse.

Pictured here from left to right : ARB supplied bolt for drivers side, factory bolt from passenger side (threads closest to the head of the bolt look really bad on that?), and a 14mm x 2 bolt from HD which you can see is definitely too coarse.

Maybe 1.5 is correct, now to find one somewhere.

 

[hoser]

Class 8.8 is equivalent to grade 5 bolts. You're going to want "Class 10.9" bolts or Class 12.9 otherwise your upgrade might not be an upgrade after all.

 

[Captramrod01]

Sorry I don't have part numbers on me but just grab some oem bolts. The same ones from the driver side. They were 3 bucks for both and came with washers and my dealer had them in stock.

 

[dfinn]

Class 8.8 is equivalent to grade 5 bolts. You're going to want "Class 10.9" bolts or Class 12.9 otherwise your upgrade might not be an upgrade after all.

8.8 is what ARB spec'd. Should those not be trusted?

 

[dfinn]

Sorry I don't have part numbers on me but just grab some oem bolts. The same ones from the driver side. They were 3 bucks for both and came with washers and my dealer had them in stock.

The only reason that I didn't go that route is because for whatever reasoning they had, ARB had spec'd new bolts for the drivers side. I don't have the stock ones to compare but I think the stock ones are shorter and ARB replaces them to get some extra length because the bolt is now also going through the bumper.

 

[hoser]

ARB specs grade 8.8 for the tie down/transport point. They say to retain the OEM bolts for the Tow point. If you wanted to play it more safe, you would use a "bridle" which distributes the force over both the frame horns.

 

[Greenbean]

Sorry I don't have part numbers on me but just grab some oem bolts. The same ones from the driver side. They were 3 bucks for both and came with washers and my dealer had them in stock.

Were they long enough? I can see the pass side being long enough as they pass through the existing hook and d-ring device so they are longer than the drivers side.

The 70mm are long enough and maybe even a tad to long, they work though... I included a pic showing the comparison between the stock short bolts and the 70mm. I think 60mm might be better.

 

[dfinn]

is zinc plated what I'm looking for?

Metric tap bolts, Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 14mm x 1.5mm x 55mm - Bolt Depot