I am putting a suspension package together, using Tundra lower arms. My question to all in the know..is there any length difference in the aftermarket UCAs?
Any difference in UCA lengths? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jginca
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I think the geometries are slightly different between brands, not sure you'd call one longer than another though.
I went with TCs mostly because locally they are such a well respected company that has dedicated their trade to development of Toyota specific products. They are not the cheapest, nor the most expensive, they are rebuildable, and thoroughly tested on the Tundra.
I went with TCs mostly because locally they are such a well respected company that has dedicated their trade to development of Toyota specific products. They are not the cheapest, nor the most expensive, they are rebuildable, and thoroughly tested on the Tundra.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
Can't say anything about the length differences, but the adjustability in the SPC arms is amazing. If you plan on running 35's or larger it helps to be able to "push" the suspension forward to help clear the fender and body mount.
Yeah having clearance measurements between brands and so forth would be interesting. Adjust-ability is nice too, curious what this looks like in practice, and what I mean by that was when I went to get alignment I gave them the following which are specs from a popular "SoCal Alignment" thread of consolidated alignment information. Key variable is caster, set camber and toe, then go for as much caster as possible.
STOCK TRUCKS:
Camber: +.1 degree camber on both sides.
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing +.1 degree camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees. (some guys have had to drop toe to +.04 to +.5 per side/+.08 to +.10 total toe)
So to adjust-ability, if you can adjust the SPCs is it to create more caster, or to create more clearance? Or both? Or do they go hand in hand? Otherwise I'd look for a non-adjustable design where the geometries are designed to maximize caster and clearance for a specific truck application. @dirtydeeds thoughts?
STOCK TRUCKS:
Camber: +.1 degree camber on both sides.
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing +.1 degree camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees. (some guys have had to drop toe to +.04 to +.5 per side/+.08 to +.10 total toe)
So to adjust-ability, if you can adjust the SPCs is it to create more caster, or to create more clearance? Or both? Or do they go hand in hand? Otherwise I'd look for a non-adjustable design where the geometries are designed to maximize caster and clearance for a specific truck application. @dirtydeeds thoughts?
For the Tundra application it appears you've got quite a few options for UCAs. Everything you need to know about Upper Control Arms (UCA)
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Thanks for that link
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I use socal chevy's specs when I get my alignment done. truck handles great.
the adjustability within the SPC arms allows for castor and camber adjustment at the UCA.
The last line of the instructions that come with the UCAs mentions that if you need more clearance front to rear you can adjust the lower control arms all the way forward (roll adjusting cam full narrow in front and full wide in rear) and set castor/camber with UCAs.
When I went to 35s I was rubbing on the body mount and bolt for the mud flap in the rear of the wheel well.
I had a shop follow the instructions and roll the arms full forward and picked up an inch of clearance in the back. Now I've had to trim the front bumper, but it's just plastic and would be gone with an aftermarket bumper.
the adjustability within the SPC arms allows for castor and camber adjustment at the UCA.
The last line of the instructions that come with the UCAs mentions that if you need more clearance front to rear you can adjust the lower control arms all the way forward (roll adjusting cam full narrow in front and full wide in rear) and set castor/camber with UCAs.
When I went to 35s I was rubbing on the body mount and bolt for the mud flap in the rear of the wheel well.
I had a shop follow the instructions and roll the arms full forward and picked up an inch of clearance in the back. Now I've had to trim the front bumper, but it's just plastic and would be gone with an aftermarket bumper.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
when I get the time I plan on throwing a spare 37 on just to see if it will clear.....just for s***s n giggles.
