Another Horn Question

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Front Range 4x4

Front Range 4x4

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Yes, I used search and read them all. Yes, I still don't understand. :confused:

As I was leaving the local pull-n-save getting Saab parts for my son I came upon a 66 Bonneville and thought "those horns would be nice and loud" so I layed out my $2.60 for them.

So how do I wire them in? They just have one wire which connects to the first then the second of the dual horns

Please be gentle, it's my first horn job :whoops:
 
It sounds like you'll need to add a relay to activate you new "high-end" horns. Wire the coil of the relay where the OEM horn went and use the normally open (NO) contacts for the horn. Bring power from the battery to one side of the NO contacts and place the new horns on the other side - make sure that the new horn is grounded. You should be able to blow with the best...

Harry
 
Not sure I'm getting this seemingly simple concept :frown:

Just noticed you're in Palatine - my old stomping grounds from high school days. My very first job was in the stable kitchens at Arlington Park :eek:

Used to cruise McDonalds in my 57 Chev...
 
You need the bodies of those horns to be grounded and you need to get a 12v+ signal to that single connection when you want them to sound. To do that you will either need to just use the factory horn wires (not advised) or wire in a relay to provide the 12v+. If things like relay, 12v+, ground etc are foriegn concepts to you I would suggest you contact a local electronics supply place for advice.

FYI the factory horn is wired using an interupted ground as the signal, there is always 12v+ at the horns.
 
Chris,

The grounding for the horn circuit is actually in the steering wheel as silva has said - the horns are hot all the time up to the steering wheel. Go to NAPA or any other auto parts store and buy a 20 amp "ice cube" relay for 12V - it'll cost all of $5. The relay will have 4 or 5 spades on the bottom of the cuve - (2) are for the coil, (1) is the common for the contacts, (1) is the normally open (NO) contact, (1) is the normally closed (NC) contact)

The coil of the relay will take the place of the OEM horms so get some 14 ga wire and some crimp connectors and make a small harness from the OEM connector to the relay's coil connectors - check the schematic on the side of the relay for the location of the coil terminals. From the battery (or other hot power lead) run another wire to one side of the normally open (NO) contact on the relay. On the opposite side of the NO contact run another wire to the lead of your Boneville horn. When you bolt the horns in place make sure the horns are grounded - if not run a ground wire from a bolt on the frame to the frame of the horn. When you press the horn button on the steering wheel you'll activate the coil closing the NO contacts activating the horn. I can put together a sketch and fax it or scan and e-mail it if that would make things clearer.

Hope this helps. I'll have a burger at Brant's for you over the weekend :)

Harry
 
Naw - Brant's has been around for ever. Northwest Hwy & Quentin Rd. Glad the description was clear enough to get you blowing again :)

H
 
Thanks to all of you - I'm honkin' with the big boys now :cheers:

It's much easier then I made it out to be in my head. Once the relay is in hand it all makes sense.

To to anyone else intimidated by the G/O+, G-, 30, 85, 86 etc on the schematic get yourself a relay and go at it, it really is easy thanks to everyone who took the time to walk us through it. ;)


Ming - Of course I remember Brant's now! Forgetting more than I thought :doh:

Thanks for your patience and explanations!
 
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